2002 r1150gs sat for two years, no history, runs but sketchy No manual, no tool kit,

[mslacool]

Hi,
On a whim, I bought a 2002 r1150gs from craiglist and the wife sold it but she wasn't the owner, the ex was and she got it in the divorce. He took the panniers before giving it to her and its sat for two years outside. I own a 2000 KLT and a recently purchased 2011 GS 1200 and it wasn't much money so I jumped. I checked the final drive, ( good) replaced the oil and filter, and with a great deal of difficulty, the plugs, and made some minor adjustments but I am no wrench and don't have a manual. The bike won't idle but if you gas it a little, it will stay running, It runs okay but obviously something is wrong in that it wants to spurt, to jump and at about 6000 rpm, it will literally almost jump into a burst of power. I haven't changed the fuel filters or pulled the tank and I don't know anything about fine tuning this engine. I can't even figure out where to set the idle on it. I did not do a valve adjustment, as I don't really know how yet.
I have fuel injection cleaner in the gas and I am wondering whether I should pull the tank and replace filters ( ie you tube it and learn how) or is there some chance that driving it 100 miles or 2 will bust loose whatever is in the pipes.

I suppose I should get a manual, and a factory toolkit, but I have basic home wrenches etc..

Anyone want to point me in the right direction. I am in Missoula Montana and my go to mechanic, passed away recently so its the dealer or nobody else I know?

I suppose that taking it to the dealer is the only but for me the last and expensive choice.


Also I have the mounting racks but no panniers. They are just square tubing but I don't know what kind to search for, ( will any pannier fit or do I have to buy a certain kind after I figure out what kind mine are.


Regard
Paul

 

[happy wanderer]

Hi,
On a whim, I bought a 2002 r1150gs from craiglist and the wife sold it but she wasn't the owner, the ex was and she got it in the divorce. He took the panniers before giving it to her and its sat for two years outside. I own a 2000 KLT and a recently purchased 2011 GS 1200 and it wasn't much money so I jumped. I checked the final drive, ( good) replaced the oil and filter, and with a great deal of difficulty, the plugs, and made some minor adjustments but I am no wrench and don't have a manual. The bike won't idle but if you gas it a little, it will stay running, It runs okay but obviously something is wrong in that it wants to spurt, to jump and at about 6000 rpm, it will literally almost jump into a burst of power. I haven't changed the fuel filters or pulled the tank and I don't know anything about fine tuning this engine. I can't even figure out where to set the idle on it. I did not do a valve adjustment, as I don't really know how yet.
I have fuel injection cleaner in the gas and I am wondering whether I should pull the tank and replace filters ( ie you tube it and learn how) or is there some chance that driving it 100 miles or 2 will bust loose whatever is in the pipes.

I suppose I should get a manual, and a factory toolkit, but I have basic home wrenches etc..

Anyone want to point me in the right direction. I am in Missoula Montana and my go to mechanic, passed away recently so its the dealer or nobody else I know?

I suppose that taking it to the dealer is the only but for me the last and expensive choice.


Also I have the mounting racks but no panniers. They are just square tubing but I don't know what kind to search for, ( will any pannier fit or do I have to buy a certain kind after I figure out what kind mine are.


Regard
Paul

Hi Paul and welcome to the MOA forum. You've got a lot of questions here so let's see...
- The idle on this bike is set at the factory so you don't want to touch the idle screws unless absolutely necessary like when the bushings for the throttle plate wear out and they need rebuilding. The only idle adjustment you should need to make is on the two big brass screws we call them here. They point up and backward on the sides of the throttle bodies. Start by removing the small rubber plugs on the bottom of the throttle bodies, remove the big brass screws after gently turning them in first and remember exactly how many turns. Usually about 1.5 turns out is a good starting point when you put them back in. When you have them out, clean them till shiny but don't scratch them. Also spray throttle body cleaner down the holes. There will be black crud in there you can wipe it out with Q Tips or some such.
To set these up properly and to set the throttle cables properly to balance the throttle bodies you need a Twin Max or Carb stix or some other vacuum port tool that measure vacuum at idle. If you don't know what I'm talking about you will need to find the local BMW club and find a member who can help you out a bit.
- Before you tackle the throttle bodies you need to adjust the valves. You need two sets of feeler guages to do it properly. Get you a set here: https://www.beemerboneyard.com/wurthoilhead.html or your local FLAPS might have some similar. Spend a lot of time getting the valves just right. It pays big dividends on these bikes to be very fussy about getting them all even on both sides. Do one side, do the other and then go back to side one and double check then again on side two. THEN do the throttly body synch.
- You will need a manual. Clymer and Haynes make a half decent one. I'm going to send you a link via a PM here. Check your PMs.
- If your bikes has been sitting it's going to run rough for a bit. These machines need to be ridden all the time. They don't like sitting. Once you get all the fluids freshened, bleed the brake and ABS systems, get her tuned up right just ride the wheels off it. They love to be ridden and the bike will thank you for it.
- Local clubs are a great alternative to expensive dealers for folks who self maintain. There should be someone near you that can help you out. The MT air marshall may even know someone or the MOA ambassador for your area.
- The racks on your bike are most likely OEM so BMW system case racks. Keep an eye out for some good used bags on eBay, flea market here or on the for sale area of IBMWR. They are wonderful bags and the mount system is quite good. They look like this:

You wrote that your racks have square tubing so it is quite possible that the previous owner put after market side cases or panniers on. A photo of your racks would be helpful to figure this out. Lots of GS owners put aluminum box type panniers on. If so you'll need to find a set of Happy Trail panniers or something like that off eBay or the other sources I mentioned above.

Hope this helps you get started. Again, check your PMs for a link I am going to send you.

 

[m_stock10506]

Hi Paul, go to the Internet BMW riders website.

Www.ibmwr.org

Click on the Oilhead R-bikes technical link, then download the R11xx tune-up manual and also the R11xxGS maintenance manual. There is some duplication of services in the two but they will give you a good start on DIY maintenance.

You might get things better if you run a tank of fresh gas through with fuel system cleaner mixed in, but to be really sure, just pull the injectors and send them out to be cleaned by a professional injector cleaning shop. If both injectors don’t flow evenly, then cleaning throttle bodies and syncing will be difficult.

 

[mslacool]

Thank you I did not know you responded til Just now.

Hi Paul and welcome to the MOA forum. You've

Thank you for your help.

by square, I meant in a square shape, round tubing. I made a homemade manometer but haven't used it as when I checked the throttle body cables, they were wedged out a one quarter inch. I put them back in the slot and it runs pretty good. Not great but good... now when it gets hot, I get a bit of what I think is valve slap.. so the valves need adjustment... I would guess

I went to the John Day Rally in OR this past Saturday and got some good information... I think I now understand how the bags, still missing , Mount... a wide grip mount on top seems to be the manner and they seem to be the original racks, less the bags the H took. Black. I also think if I can weld a heat shield in place, soft bags will do nicely.

I will get the valve tools. I held off til I knew something about it but it seems like they will really help. I think I can do it if I can find topdead center like the videos show.

While I got you on the horn, I get a tinging, almost metallic in nature, like a tuning fork, high pitched coming from the engine area but I haven't pinned it down. Is it a fuel pump making that sound? Its odd but performance doesn't seem affected.. YET

Thank you for your help, I did not know a reply had been posted.
Paul

 

[mslacool]

Thank you I did not know you responded til Just now.

Hi Paul, go to the Internet BMW riders website.

Www.ibmwr.org

Click on the Oilhead R-bikes technical link, then download the R11xx tune-up manual and also the R11xxGS maintenance manual. There is some duplication of services in the two but they will give you a good start on DIY maintenance.

You might get things better if you run a tank of fresh gas through with fuel system cleaner mixed in, but to be really sure, just pull the injectors and send them out to be cleaned by a professional injector cleaning shop. If both injectors don’t flow evenly, then cleaning throttle bodies and syncing will be difficult.

I have run premium non ethanol gas in it with seafoam since it started running. Got a few tanks in it. I am a few steps down the line ... I think I need to get the valves adjusted before too long.. they get noisy when hot.. so that can't be good. but its intermittent and certainly not constant, goes away more or less when started and cold.. and revved a little

Pau l

 

[gsaddict]

Hi Paul

The first thing you need to do is see if your bike has the original black rubber brake lines on it.

If it does, they need to be replaced as there have been many cases of internal blockages as well as rupture.
You safety depends on it. Don't put it off.
Replace with Braided Stainless Steel Braided teflon lines.
Spiegler brand is my personal choice. (I've changed many sets)

Next thing to check is if you have the old or the new style Hall sensor. (BMW changed over in late '02)
This device determines the spark timing/injector pulses.
The insulation on the wiring is prone to deterioration on the old style and will strand you.
Pull the front black engine cover off and look at the wire going up from the bottom belt pulley.
See below on how to id.

 

[jagarra]

I was thinking on what may be causing the high pitched whine. Since the bike sat for 2 years with probably gas in tank it may be worthwhile to pull tank to check fuel delivery parts. A new filter, pick up sock for sure, the vibration damper for the fuel pump may be the cause of the noise.

When I got my R1100, which sat for a long time, the pad around the fuel pump was partially desolved.