2001 R1100R Super Tuning (Setting TPS and Stops screws)

[roger 04 rt]

Eleven, As I mentioned earlier, Super Tuning relies on a procedure in it called Zero=Zero, which has lately been shown to set the initial throttle stop too far open, leading to poor regulation with the BBS adjustments. The TPS final setting of 360-370mV is higher than BMW and the GS-911 call for.

The stop screw adjustment is only to correct someone else’s mis-adjust, why do you think yours require resetting?

If you believe adjusting the stop screws and TPS are necessary, the TPS final voltage at idle should be 340 mV (note that an idling engine will pull a worn butterfly more closed than it is a rest, changing the TPS setting).

If you must adjust the stop screws the Zero=250mV procedure (in the link from my earlier post) gives a better final result.

 

[eleven]

Roger,
This bike is surging quite a bit at the 3500 rpm range. I used a mechanic who did the zero-zero procedure a few months back and it rode better than before but still surged. I saw The Super Tuning article/procedure and thought it might work and was going to try it myself.

I bought this bike from a guy who let it sit with gas in the tank for 12 years. I relined the gas tank and replaced the fuel delivery system and synced the TBs using a carbpro 2. The bike was stalling randomly when slowing to a stop and I couldn’t figure it out. So, I took it to a mechanic and that is when he did the zero-zero. Prior to that the Stop Screw and TPS still had the blue paint but not now.

I plan to try the zero-250 based on your recommendation.

Thanks.

 

[roger 04 rt]

Roger,
This bike is surging quite a bit at the 3500 rpm range. I used a mechanic who did the zero-zero procedure a few months back and it rode better than before but still surged. I saw The Super Tuning article/procedure and thought it might work and was going to try it myself.

I bought this bike from a guy who let it sit with gas in the tank for 12 years. I relined the gas tank and replaced the fuel delivery system and synced the TBs using a carbpro 2. The bike was stalling randomly when slowing to a stop and I couldn’t figure it out. So, I took it to a mechanic and that is when he did the zero-zero. Prior to that the Stop Screw and TPS still had the blue paint but not now.

I plan to try the zero-250 based on your recommendation.

Thanks.

The main problem with the zero=zero procedure was an assumption by Rob Lentini that 0 degrees on the throttle body butterfly was equal to 0.00 volts on the TPS sensor but that was wrong. Since potentiometers (there are two inside the TPS sensor, one for small throttle angles and one for larger angles) don't operate well at the bottom of their ranges, Bosch designed the TPS sensor to output 250mV (0.25V) at zero degrees throttle. That led to a refinement of the procedure to Zero=250.

To get a good sync, you need to follow all the instructions about cable slack and then the order or retightening the cables.

With a good job on the valves, and well set throttle bodies, you may still end up with some surging, even a lot. A number of us have used a technique to richen the O2 sensor, this does a great job of eliminating the surge. We've either used Innovate Motorsports LC-2 Wideband sensors or the AF-XIED now from BeemerBoneyard. When you get to that point, we can give you an idea or how/why it works.

 

[BC1100S]

The amount of knowledge on this forum never ceases to amaze me.

As well, I can attest from experience that the AF-XIED is a worthwhile investment.

 

[eleven]

I wanted to thank everyone for the help. Especially Michael who was able to get the TPS set within range using the GS911. Bike is running really good now.

 

[m_stock10506]

I wanted to thank everyone for the help. Especially Michael who was able to get the TPS set within range using the GS911. Bike is running really good now.

"eleven" doesn't let us know what a beauty he has to ride. He rode over a couple of days ago. His Black, pin striped, R1100R has barely over 6k miles. It was like working on a new bike. Except for all the rotted fuel components that eleven had to replace when he got the bike . He was able to find some remains of the factory blue paint on the left stop screw and he returned the throttle stop to as close to original as possible before riding to me.

When he came over, we determined that the TPS was out of spec for the idle setting. That was corrected.
Then we did a valve adjustment. This was possibly the first time the valve covers were off the bike since the 600 mile service. All of the valves were a little sloppy, so eleven adjusted all of them to .15 - .30, intake - exhaust.

Then a careful TB sync was done. BBS were removed and cleaned. The bypass ports were cleaned out also. New o-rings put on both BBS. Idle was adjusted - balanced, then off-idle. I used a Harmonizer to get the TB sync spot-on, then eleven checked it with his Carbtune device, so he could see how that looked on his gauge (also showed balanced). I test rode the bike, around my neighborhood. Smooth throttle feel, no surging and the lightest feeling gear shift of any Oilhead I have ridden. eleven rode home, and rode again yesterday, reported (to me) that the bike was running smoothly.

 

[roger 04 rt]

Nice work Eleven, and Michael. The GS-911 sets the TPS to 340mV which is right on. After restoring the Throttle Stop screw to the painted positions, how different were the BBSs set?

 

[m_stock10506]

Not sure... We set both of them two turns out from seated initially. Turned each side about a quarter turn until the Harmonizer was at zero, at idle. If it needed a lot of adjustment to only one side, I was going to set them equal and then balance with the stop screw, but that wasn’t necessary. Off idle only needed a little adjustment on the right side to loosen the cable and get the Harmonizer to zero at 3500 rpm.