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1978 R80 feeler gauge question
- Thread starter nickrides
- Start date
barron_williams
Monza Blue 1974 R90/6
Without a picture, I am just guessing we are talking about the same thing, but I believe you are referring to the tool for adjusting the front brake cable play.
On the master cylinder (under the tank), there is a slot that the two "fork tines" on the tool slide into. You use the cable adjuster at the master cylinder end of the cable (the lever end doesn't have threads) so the fork tool slides into the slot, no more, no less.
Sound like we are talking about the same thing?
Barron
On the master cylinder (under the tank), there is a slot that the two "fork tines" on the tool slide into. You use the cable adjuster at the master cylinder end of the cable (the lever end doesn't have threads) so the fork tool slides into the slot, no more, no less.
Sound like we are talking about the same thing?
Barron
P
paulabuls
Guest
I'm wondering if anyone might have a picture of this tool. I also have a 1978 R80 but my tool kit isn't complete. Sounds like a handy little tool.
Cheers,
Paula
Paula -
Welcome! Should be the tool on the left here, image taken from BMW Hucky's website:
The tool is really not needed. The tool is used to space the pushrod on the under-tank master cylinder. The thickness is 0.040" IIRC...I can't find the number anywhere.
Upated: Found the reference in Snowbum's Brake section; here's what he says:
"There is nothing OVERLY critical about this tool, but it should be flat, smooth, and the thickness fairly close to the original. I measured an original one, in case you want to duplicate it: The thickness of the metal is fairly important, the original one was 0.046"THICK. The tool length is not important, the original was about 2". The width of the tool was 0.592". The slot in the tool's long end was to a depth of 0.642" with a full radius at the bottom; the slot width was 0.363". It is certainly possible to do the adjustment without the tool." Source:
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/brakes.htm (near the bottom)
Be sure and find time to look at Resources and Links thread for some handy links to things you never thought you'd need!!
Welcome! Should be the tool on the left here, image taken from BMW Hucky's website:
The tool is really not needed. The tool is used to space the pushrod on the under-tank master cylinder. The thickness is 0.040" IIRC...I can't find the number anywhere.
Upated: Found the reference in Snowbum's Brake section; here's what he says:
"There is nothing OVERLY critical about this tool, but it should be flat, smooth, and the thickness fairly close to the original. I measured an original one, in case you want to duplicate it: The thickness of the metal is fairly important, the original one was 0.046"THICK. The tool length is not important, the original was about 2". The width of the tool was 0.592". The slot in the tool's long end was to a depth of 0.642" with a full radius at the bottom; the slot width was 0.363". It is certainly possible to do the adjustment without the tool." Source:
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/brakes.htm (near the bottom)
Be sure and find time to look at Resources and Links thread for some handy links to things you never thought you'd need!!
Stan_R80/7
New member
My 1978 Clymer BMW service manual describes being able to put a feeler gauge between the arm and piston. "This ensures that the arm is not in contact with the piston". The feeler gauge thickness is not specified.
I never knew about the BMW 71 11 9 090 154 special tool until recently. But then, I never knew there was a tool to make lubricating the swing arm bearing and the rear brake pivot much (much) easier (http://www.motobins.co.uk/library/99810.jpg) .
Edit- To continue on this tangent: I found a standard seal-off grease attachment works well for the swing arm bearings and the rear brake pivot flush Zerk grease fitting can be swapped for a standard (M6x1) grease fitting then the flush fitting put back. Not that I am opposed to special tools - but they are easy to lose.
I never knew about the BMW 71 11 9 090 154 special tool until recently. But then, I never knew there was a tool to make lubricating the swing arm bearing and the rear brake pivot much (much) easier (http://www.motobins.co.uk/library/99810.jpg) .
Edit- To continue on this tangent: I found a standard seal-off grease attachment works well for the swing arm bearings and the rear brake pivot flush Zerk grease fitting can be swapped for a standard (M6x1) grease fitting then the flush fitting put back. Not that I am opposed to special tools - but they are easy to lose.
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