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Hyder Seek

I'm thinking that Hyder is such a great destination because Hyderites have the Alaska attitude, but Hyder is way down south and closer to "outside" (the rest of the USA outside of Alaska)

It just happens that when the US bought Alaska from the Russians, we got the coast islands that would otherwise have become British Columbia's Pacific coast. It was just by chance that the north-south boundary cut off a tip of land to the west of what is now Stewart, giving the Canadians access to a natural channel to the Pacific, and giving Alaskans a tiny piece of land attached to Canada.

Theoretically, since Hyder is so far removed from the rest of Alaska, law enforcement is supposed to be reciprocal with the Royal Candian Mounted Police. If there is a law enforcement problem in Hyder, the Alaskans are supposed to call the Canadian mounties. But of course, no self-respecting Alaskan would stoop so low as to get the Canadians involved in a genuine Alaska dispute. I get the impression that Hyderites take care of their own problems without consulting either the Alaska troopers or the RCMP. If someone steps too far out of line, I suspect the boys just get together and invite the poor SOB to go crab fishing.

You can spend US dollars in Hyder, but most everyone uses Loonies (Canadian dollars have a loon on them) and Toonies (the Canadian two-dollar coin). Most everyone drives (or rides) into Stewart for supplies, where Canadian dollars are required. Groceries, ice cream, gasoline, spare final drives, etc.

The bear viewing area Voni mentions is six or so miles north of Hyder. The road actually curves around and crosses back into Canada, but no one pays any attention. There is a salmon stream coming down out of the mountains, and every fall the bears congregate in large numbers to eat fish. Someone has built a raised walkway so visitors can view the bears from about 10 feet above the creek, hopefully just out of reach of a bear. I believe there are both brown and black bear there at the same time. I'm thinking Grizzly aren't in the area, but correct me if I'm wrong about that. An adult Grizzly can reach about 12 feet with his front claws, and remove a pickup door with one snatch. By comparison, Black bear are smaller and cuter.

You won't see many bears at the viewing area during the Hyder Seek. I'd like to go up some time in the fall and watch the bears gorging on fish.

pmdave
 

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Of course, it's required to stop at the Boundary Store run by Caroline. You'll get to buy home made fudge and lots of HyderSeek souvenirs.

She's the one who told me Hyder bears are raised by their moms to know that fish are food and berries are food, and that people aren't. An ideal setting except for an occasional rogue bear who wasn't schooled so well. It's hard to tell by looking whether the bear you are seeing is local or not.

Not to be confused with Bear Glacier . . .

http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/bearglacier.jpg

Voni
sMiling
 
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There are lots of websites with pictures and information about Stewart and Hyder, including

http://stewartbchyderak.homestead.com/homepage.html

If you want to see pictures of the bears, try

http://louandval.com/alaska/006_fish_creek.html

Looking at some of the photos on various sites, I stand corrected about Grizzly bear. They appear to frequent Fish Creek, which it appears is in Alaska.

Voni, I suspect the Hyder bears don't eat local humans because they are too tough to chew. A tender motorcyclist from the south might be acceptable...

pmdave
 
Maybe that's why Paul insists we stay at the Grandview instead of camping at RunAmok. LOL!

Voni
sMiling
 
My wife and I are heading up to HyderSeek after the Chicken Rally. How are the roads getting in? OK for an LT?
 
Paved the whole way except for construction. If you head north from Hyder and take the Cassier you may still hit some unpaved areas (it's been 6-7 years since I did the Cassier), but people ride the Cassier on Hogs and scooters.
 
From the South--via 16 to Kitwanga, then north on 37 to Meziadin Junction, and west on 37A to Stewart is "all paved." From Meziadin Junction north on 37 there are several stretches of gravel/dirt.

If the weather is bad, the unpaved sections can be treacherous. If the weather is dry, the unpaved sections will generally be very acceptable for any street bike.

But in the north (BC, Northwesat Territories, Alaska, etc. the ground freezes in the winter and bubbles up in frost heaves that can be 2 ft tall. So a "paved" road can be rough in the spring, and the temporary repair is to blade off the offending heave and spread gravel around. That means that even an "all paved" road is typically 80% paved in the spring, and 90% paved by the end of summer.

So, many riders heading for the north will install tires with a bit more of a dual sport tread.

Just about all the routes in BC are beautiful, remote, and scenic, including 93/16 through Jasper/Banff to Prince George, and 1/97 through the Frazer River canyon.

When riding into the north, it helps to have a mindset that you may need to delay for two or three days for bad weather, tire problems, or whatever. It's not clever to pass a gas station up there just because you still have a half tank. And, although lots of riders go solo, there is wisdom in traveling with someone else, not only in case of a problem, but to share the experience.

Bear in mind that water routes are sensible alternatives to the land routes. The Alaska Ferry System handles traffic from Bellingham all the way to Skagway. BC Ferries connects between Port Hardy at the north end of Vancouver Island and Prince Rupert (the western terminus of highway 16) Some riders go by road in one direction, and by ferry on the flip-flop. Since I live south of Victoria, my route to Hyder would be up Vancouver Island, ferry to Prince Rupert, then east on 16 and north on the Cassiar. However, the ferries don't always run on your preferred schedule. Both BC and Alaska ferries allow sleeping on deck, but I'd suggest getting a stateroom with a bunk, toilet, etc. and a place to lock up your gear. They all have food service.

View from the stern of the BC ferry Queen of the North, somewhere on the inside passage south of Prince Rupert. This ferry now lies on the bottom after a slight miscalculation by the crew during a storm.

pmdave
 

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service

Was wondering about getting an oil change on the road, either by a shop or DIY. Any shop recommendations for Whitehorse, Dawson Creek or Watson Lake? I would prefer not hauling 4 qts but just buying from a shop. And I will be riding my GS! :laugh
Thanks
Mark
R1200GS
Heritage Softail
 
When traveling up north, I'd advise getting a current copy of The Milepost, which should have ads for various businesses as well as general advice.

If you do a search for the locations you mentioned, you can find businesses that might be able to provide what you need. For instance, in Watson Lake:

Campground Services mile 632 Alaska Hwy. Gas, diesel, propane & oil changes. Free Wi-Fi. 867-536-7448

You might try calling or emailing them. You may need to have your favorite oil shipped to them, or have them order the correct stuff for you.

When I need to do an oil change on the road, I buy the oil and a plastic drain pan at a convenience store (or "mart" as available), drain the old oil, fill with the new oil, pour the old oil back into the bottles, and leave at a gas station. Sometimes it's cheaper to buy a gallon jug.

Or, look in the Anonymous book, and see if there might be a fellow BMW owner with work space, maybe oil and filter, on your route.

pmdave
 
Was wondering about getting an oil change on the road, either by a shop or DIY. Any shop recommendations for Whitehorse, Dawson Creek or Watson Lake? I would prefer not hauling 4 qts but just buying from a shop. And I will be riding my GS! :laugh
Thanks
Mark
R1200GS
Heritage Softail

Mark,

How far north are you planning to ride? If you are coming all the way to Fairbanks then I recommend you try to align your services so you do not need to do one on the road. In Fairbanks you will have the options of doing your own service in my garage (if I am not on the road); going to a local independent shop (there are a few that have great reputations); or, going to the local BMW dealer.
 
Mark,

How far north are you planning to ride? If you are coming all the way to Fairbanks then I recommend you try to align your services so you do not need to do one on the road. In Fairbanks you will have the options of doing your own service in my garage (if I am not on the road); going to a local independent shop (there are a few that have great reputations); or, going to the local BMW dealer.

My tenative plan is to go to Hyder Seek then ride the Cassiar hwy to at least Watson Lake. I will either go to Skagway/Haines , Whitehorse but no farther north or leave Watson Lake and go to Dawson Creek. I appreciate the offer for your garage and would offer that in mine as well.

Mark
 
pmdave

I just bought the 2010 milepost, I will start looking thru it tonight. I have also done the mail the oil thing but always to someone I knew, but it's a thought especially with the anonymous book which I confess I have never used to call someone.:scratch Last resort I will carry some & find the gas station. I have carried one of those cheap roasting pans which fit in the bottom of the panniers & really take up very little room, the kind that if your not careful fold in half when full of hot oil.:laugh
Thanks
Mark
 
Was wondering about getting an oil change on the road, either by a shop or DIY. Any shop recommendations for Whitehorse, Dawson Creek or Watson Lake? I would prefer not hauling 4 qts but just buying from a shop. And I will be riding my GS! :laugh
Thanks
Mark
R1200GS
Heritage Softail

Mark, I've driven semis on the Alaska a fair bit and also ridden it on my bike. There are bike shops in Dawson Creek, Ft. St. John, & Ft. Nelson B.C.; they are all used to helping out riders with oil, tires & repairs. There are several bike dealers in Whitehorse, imho the Honda dealer is best as they carry a surprisingly good selection of oil, riding gear etc. All of them will alow diy with maybe a small disposal fee. If you need a tire tho you may be waiting several days for it to come in from Edmonton or Vancouver. Due to the isolation brace yourself for price shock, it costs plenty to have things hauled two thousand kms by truck. Watson Lake is not much more than several hotels & greasy spoons but you can count on help with repairs if you can get the parts brought in. Do be careful here & do not leave anything you want to keep out in plain view; when you get there you will know what I'm talking about. You will need to bring your own oil filter, I've dealt with the shops in Ft Nelson & Whitehorse, both will go the extra mile to help out a touring biker. Gary.
 
Mark, I've driven semis on the Alaska a fair bit and also ridden it on my bike. There are bike shops in Dawson Creek, Ft. St. John, & Ft. Nelson B.C.; they are all used to helping out riders with oil, tires & repairs. There are several bike dealers in Whitehorse, imho the Honda dealer is best as they carry a surprisingly good selection of oil, riding gear etc. All of them will alow diy with maybe a small disposal fee. If you need a tire tho you may be waiting several days for it to come in from Edmonton or Vancouver. Due to the isolation brace yourself for price shock, it costs plenty to have things hauled two thousand kms by truck. Watson Lake is not much more than several hotels & greasy spoons but you can count on help with repairs if you can get the parts brought in. Do be careful here & do not leave anything you want to keep out in plain view; when you get there you will know what I'm talking about. You will need to bring your own oil filter, I've dealt with the shops in Ft Nelson & Whitehorse, both will go the extra mile to help out a touring biker. Gary.

Sounds like extra precaution needs to be taken to avoid the 5 finger discount in that parts of the woods, you are the second poster to mention it. I try to always park where I can keep on eye on things but it's not always possible but I certainly will be extra cautious.What concerns me a little is my sleeping bag & tent that are strapped to the panniers. Thanks for the heads up about Whitehorse Honda.
Mark
 
Maybe it's just me, but I've noticed some odd behavior in northern BC and Yukon. I've had some delightful conversations with business people, truckers, and other tourists. It's not simply a matter of the five-finger discount by someone who is desparate, but some folks wanting to give tourists a hard time. I get the impression that some locals are jealous of anyone with the ability to travel on an expensive motorcycle. I know I'm prejudiced (I hope I'm not bigoted) here, but the behavior seems to be among those who are less educated

I'm thinking of the local yokels in the pickup truck headed at me in a consturction zone on the Alcan. They "drifted" over onto the gravel berm along the center of the road, roosting me with rocks. I swear the driver was grinning as he went by. I realize that getting around in the north is difficult, and a 4WD truck is the norm. To someone who lives full time in the north, a motorcycle is a luxury, not a real vehicle. A snowmobile is much more acceptable.

Is this just my imagination? Or have others experienced the same reverse-hospitality?

pmdave
 
Dave,

I have not had any issues with the problems you described. Among the folks who live in Alaska and travel back and forth to the outside it is, however, not uncommon to hear of an act of theft or vandalism along the roads. I'd say it is not an epidemic and you are more likely to travel unmolested than not, but caution is warranted. Not unlike many areas in our own land, regrettably.
 
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