JT_R1200S
Boxer Fan
I just caught this thread on ADVrider on zapping your bad fuel strip to bring it back to life, interesting....
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=758453&highlight=piezo&page=17
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=758453&highlight=piezo&page=17
From the ADVrider post by Kr3w:
Fuel Level Sensor Strip Repair Tool
Greetings!
I suffered the expected Fuel Level Sensor Strip failure last weekend, and after reading through this thread, I found inspiration for a fix.
I want to give a 'shout out' to JoelWisman, Old_Don, TXjames and jzeiler for their contributions--unknowingly--to me in this thread!
After reading Joel's fix using a megger and a picofarad capacitor to drop the high voltage (HV) across the broken strip, I was already thinking...piezoelectric component. We use them in aviation. So, I decided to use a very common one. A fireplace lighter. Below are the steps I took to construct the 'device'. I used common hardware found in aviation repairs, but you can substitute as needed.
This is the original fault, a bad fuel level sensor strip. Verified with a multi-meter showing an 'open' circuit between pins #2 & #3.
1. The very common fireplace lighter being disassembled. Slide the black cap forward (not shown) and remove the one screw. Note yellow arrows.
2. Splice in additional wire. I used 18 gauge wire and covered with heat shrink tubing.
3. I applied additional heat shrink tubing for added strength.
4. First yellow arrow is high voltage or self healing tape to insure a better fit. Second yellow arrow is reinstallation of the safety switch.
5. Slide the black cap back on and reinstall the screw.
6. I used some connector pins flatten out with a vice. You could use smaller automobile blade type connectors too. (check the fit before crimping to the wire)
7. Be sure to cover the pins with heat shrink tubing to prevent electrical arcing between the two pins.
8. The completed fuel level strip repair...err...device.
9. Gas tank almost full (fill it up if you can) and battery disconnected. Install the 'device' between pins #2 and #3, order does not matter. UPDATE: Pull the trigger 4 to 6 times (feedback from other ADV members suggest this is the average) and remove. Since your here go ahead and install the 'device' on pins #1 and #4 (the heater strips). Again, pull the trigger 4 to 6 times and remove. Reconnect the fuel level strip connector and battery. (I always disconnect the battery when performing electrical work, but it is not required for this fix)
10. Success!! Result after using the 'device'. The bike should be on the center stand and the side stand MUST be up. You must start the bike and let it cycle through the preprogramed 90 second fuel sample for the fault light to extinguish.
Congratulate yourself on saving $142.00 for this repair! Use the money saved by taking your mates out for a pint!
The 'device' can emit a small HV charge. Please use responsibly around children and small animals!
__________________
'09 GSA
'92 K75s
"If loud pipes save lives...imagine what learning to ride could do!"
Kr3w screwed with this post 06-12-2013 at 12:13 PM Reason: Feedback from you guys. Thanks!
Fuel Level Sensor Strip Repair Tool
Greetings!
I suffered the expected Fuel Level Sensor Strip failure last weekend, and after reading through this thread, I found inspiration for a fix.
I want to give a 'shout out' to JoelWisman, Old_Don, TXjames and jzeiler for their contributions--unknowingly--to me in this thread!
After reading Joel's fix using a megger and a picofarad capacitor to drop the high voltage (HV) across the broken strip, I was already thinking...piezoelectric component. We use them in aviation. So, I decided to use a very common one. A fireplace lighter. Below are the steps I took to construct the 'device'. I used common hardware found in aviation repairs, but you can substitute as needed.
This is the original fault, a bad fuel level sensor strip. Verified with a multi-meter showing an 'open' circuit between pins #2 & #3.
1. The very common fireplace lighter being disassembled. Slide the black cap forward (not shown) and remove the one screw. Note yellow arrows.
2. Splice in additional wire. I used 18 gauge wire and covered with heat shrink tubing.
3. I applied additional heat shrink tubing for added strength.
4. First yellow arrow is high voltage or self healing tape to insure a better fit. Second yellow arrow is reinstallation of the safety switch.
5. Slide the black cap back on and reinstall the screw.
6. I used some connector pins flatten out with a vice. You could use smaller automobile blade type connectors too. (check the fit before crimping to the wire)
7. Be sure to cover the pins with heat shrink tubing to prevent electrical arcing between the two pins.
8. The completed fuel level strip repair...err...device.
9. Gas tank almost full (fill it up if you can) and battery disconnected. Install the 'device' between pins #2 and #3, order does not matter. UPDATE: Pull the trigger 4 to 6 times (feedback from other ADV members suggest this is the average) and remove. Since your here go ahead and install the 'device' on pins #1 and #4 (the heater strips). Again, pull the trigger 4 to 6 times and remove. Reconnect the fuel level strip connector and battery. (I always disconnect the battery when performing electrical work, but it is not required for this fix)
10. Success!! Result after using the 'device'. The bike should be on the center stand and the side stand MUST be up. You must start the bike and let it cycle through the preprogramed 90 second fuel sample for the fault light to extinguish.
Congratulate yourself on saving $142.00 for this repair! Use the money saved by taking your mates out for a pint!
The 'device' can emit a small HV charge. Please use responsibly around children and small animals!
__________________
'09 GSA
'92 K75s
"If loud pipes save lives...imagine what learning to ride could do!"
Kr3w screwed with this post 06-12-2013 at 12:13 PM Reason: Feedback from you guys. Thanks!
