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Beware of "THE BOLTS"!

So being new to the mechanical world, could someone please give me examples of where to use ant-seize on my bikes? :dunno

I'm sure Mr. Glaves will weigh in, but at a minimum, any non-aluminum "fastener" that goes into an aluminum hole and is 6mm or larger, usually gets anti-seize on my bike. I'm no chemist but "two different metals will set up a red/ox reaction when they are wet, especially when salt is present. The metal with the lower oxidation potential will corode, in this case the aluminum"

I'll stand aside now and await the "experts"....:dance
 
How 'bout "threaded fasteners"?
That would cover screws, bolts, and nuts of any description as long as it had threads.

Plus, we could call them "schraub-Verbindungselementen" when in secret club meetings.

Or maybe not.

Only if you know the secret handshake!
 
In the inch system bolts are 1/4 dia or larger. Screws are smaller than 1/4 inch.

In the metric system they are called "threaded fasteners" or somthin' fancy......

Special kudos from this retired mech engineer to the welder-poster above getting THAT stud out! He's the sort of guy we have to go to when we're really in a jam!:clap
 
recessed fracture

Removing broken bolts are part of how i make my living. I'm a welder.

This is an 04 ford V8 exhaust.

IMG_20121211_154432-L.jpg



David

David, I'm not a welder, but I weld. I once thought I was brilliant for devising this method of broken bolt removal. I've since come to realize that I'm just smart enough to think of doing something that a lot of other folks were doing before I ever struck an arc. The photo above shows a broken stud with the fracture surface recessed in the hole. How do you go about getting a nut / bolt / screw welded to the broken stud without damaging the material the stud is threaded into? I've had success with flush fractures with a little damage to the surrounding material, but I've been afraid to tackle a recessed fracture. Thanks - Jonathan
 
I'm sure Mr. Glaves will weigh in, but at a minimum, any non-aluminum "fastener" that goes into an aluminum hole and is 6mm or larger, usually gets anti-seize on my bike. I'm no chemist but "two different metals will set up a red/ox reaction when they are wet, especially when salt is present. The metal with the lower oxidation potential will corode, in this case the aluminum"

I'll stand aside now and await the "experts"....:dance

Despite Tom Cutter's opinion about my tendency to over slather, I tend to be fairly conservative with the application of anti seize. I'll start with the fact that I always apply it to exhaust system fasteners that get hot. I even take exhaust header nuts off, clean the threads, and re-apply anti-seize at least once a year as part of an annual go-over. They didn't put that in the repair manual but it is good practice nonetheless.

I NEVER put anti seize on wheel screws (bolts) or axle threads. These are steel-in-steel generally and I change tires often enough that corrosion here has never been a problem.

I don't use it on small case fasteners or body fasteners. Where I think it is most important are those fasteners 8mm diameter or larger that need to be removed very occasionally and which have threads that are somewhat exposed to the elements. This means bolts with nuts and capscrews that go into threaded holes that are not blind holes - that is holes where the end of the hole is open.

I will specifically point out the exhaust header nuts on the early oilhead bikes which were an open nut. Facing forward these were an open invitation of corrosion. Ditto the header nuts on classic K bikes, although these pointed downward. These are the ones that started me removing and re-treating once a year. Later oilheads came equipped with closed cap type nuts that are less prone to corrosion causing broken studs.
 
Rxcrider, The bolt (part of the stud) in post 16 top left is the piece that broke off leaving the rest in the hole. For the weld not sticking this head is aluminum. Just build a tit onto the bolt a small amount at a time. Keep going until you can get a nut on there and weld the nut to the tit.

IMG_20121211_155209-L.jpg

Thanks for the compliments.

Here is a wheel lug nut I could not get off. I burned it out with an ARC AIR (carbon arc or gouge) No harm to the wheel, just replace the stud and lug nut.



now it says one pic per post. ?

David
 
011-L.jpg

Tig gives more control,
Utetic 680 stick rod will build up a stud and leave the flux around the outside so its not as easy to weld to the
block. Time and patients are needed most. Don't rush, wait just the right amount of time for the welded nut to cool.

I also have a complete set of cobalt left handed bits from 1/16" to 1/2"

SOMETIMES drilling the stud or bolt or screw with a LH bit it will catch and screw the piece right out. Some times not.

Why does a LAG bolt have wood screw threads?

Why does an EYE bolt have NO Hex?


Back to bikes.....

I snapped off a stud in my 2000 R1100RT exhaust when I was rebuilding the motor (130,000 miles). Lucky for me it was no big deal, the piece I removed looked just like the rest above.


David
 
Done that gotta be careful.

I remove OUTER races from blind holes, like the rear wheel bearing on my air head by welding a bead around the inside of it with a mig welder.

The bearing heats, the weld cools and shrinks so the race almost falls out. This also preheats the hub to make it receptive to the new bearing I had in the freezer.

Are we off topic yet? :brow

David
 
I have the same set up on my RT and since it was a former authority bike I'm not sure what happened but darn near every bolt holding those engine guards on are all different :banghead In fact many bolts/screws/flubber are different and I've slowly been replacing them with the right size or at least matching. I think I've got one on a cyl that is stripped so I'll try to chase the threads, and keep watching this thread.
 
I do have a MIG welder but in the case of my bikes nicely painted engine jug I was very reluctant to put that kind of heat at work. On a 6mm hole if you miss the center kinda nasty looking repair,esp., when you weld occasionally & in tight spot. I actually "practice" before I do "need to be fussy" weld operations just to get my groove back.As if I ever had one,ha! I also have a jewelers small torch head that I considered but in the end decided to simply grind away the broken below surface & at the surface (whatever the hell you want to call them fasteners:)).
I too, was of the notion that above 1/4" the name changed but to be honest, in shop talk it's pretty common to be loose with some terms such as wood screw vs. deck screw-on infinitum! Such as, "go look in the "bolt box". I can see that around a few of the posters in this thread it would be a daily "gottcha grind"? on terminology- "Poor Paul", as he has to toe that mark all the time.:banghead
Cobalt twist drills are new territory for me & I wonder how much more brittle they are in use? I have such a "mother lode" of drill bits from years of on the job use that are common HSS I just never got into the cobalt ones but know they are commonly available & am buying a few now for touchy jobs. In a longer than "jobber length" bit how easy is it to break a e.g., 1/8" cobalt bit? I do have a few titanium coated bits that are fill in replacement bits but that grinds off @ 1st sharpening & doesn't seem too remarkable to me anyway.
Oh, did I say that I have the stomach virus AGAIN! after a ~ a week hiatus?
 
I never had a problem with those bolts, but then neither have I with any other fasteners on the motorcycle.

I guess its because I put anti-seize on all of them when I bought the motorcycle new.
 
I've had those chinese craftsman ezouts shatter just by tapping them into the hole before even trying to turn them. Junk. I now have a large assortment of carbide "reverse" twist drills which seem to work better.
 
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