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So many questioins so little knowledge

T

tourist

Guest
I got the valve cover off to look inside for my valve clearance service.
I am under the impression that when checking the gap I am going to need to rotate the engine. Is that correct?
If so, I should remove spark plugs. Right?
I also need to rotate engine to to do this. I think.
There is a small cover with four bolts where the crank shaft should be. Is that where I need to rotate the shaft if needed?

Is there a bolt that will hinge the engine lower so I got more room for my fingers and tools?

P8120015.jpg
 
I would pull (and check) the plugs to turn the engine.

All other items I would need to refer to the RepRom which I don't have available at the moment
 
So many questions, so little knowledge? You have come to the right place. People say we're full of it here (knowledge I mean;)).
 
I would pull (and check) the plugs to turn the engine.

All other items I would need to refer to the RepRom which I don't have available at the moment

Yes, I assumed I would have to pull the plugs, I haven't looked to see how often the plugs need to be replaced. Maybe they need to be replaced or are they the fancy ones that don't need replaced until 100000m?

I haven't ridden in two days I have to go sit on it now.
Thanks
 
Guess I should of mentioned its a 2010 k1300gt.

I still have to come up with a way to pull a vacuum and fill. Shouldn't be too difficult with stuff I have laying around. Patience isn't needed as much as smaller fingers. It looks difficult just trying to get in there to do the measuring.

Can the coolant be reused?
 
2010...you already have 24K on it? That's the first valve check interval after the 600 mile check that typically the dealer does as they go thru a list of things to re-torque after initial run in...anyways you are there. The onboard computer stores a valve check date...I access it thru our GS-911.

You need various shims if the valves do need tweaking...we have two of these bikes and have not needed adjustment on either...yet , one at 30K. The shims are sold per piece and different thicknesses...I doubt you need them this early. :thumb This is where the RepRom comes in handy to see where the marks are to line up cyl 1 & 4 on the center camshaft sprockets ...at that point 1 is at TDC and 4 is at the overlap. there are marks on the right outer sprocket that line up with the edge of the crankcase that show the same point.


Coolant should be changed at the 4 year in service mark as well...you can prob re-use your for sure...the manual suggests 50/50 mix...everyone I know uses the premix 50/50 brands for aluminum engines...I think I paid $6 for a gallon...it will do maybe 3 bikes if you are careful. The thread I linked to has a step by step process from the K-Bike site...a simple plug/venturi set up with valves...found mine on EBAY for maybe $120 +/-. But I would not skip that step for sure.


I know about the small spaces...I have used long nosed pliers and skinny wrenches picked up thru trial and error field tests ...at least on the boxers, the work area is easy access!

If it had the 600 mile check...I would personally just button it up and come back in 24K miles. riding sounds like a lot more FUN!
 
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One of the things you need to do if you haven't is access the crank:
K44_R11015b_small.jpg


The other is how to adjust the cams to TDC
K44_R11014c_small.jpg


This is how you check them
K40_11_R11004b_small.jpg


And there is a chart provided
K43HV_R11021b_small.jpg


And if you don't have a Repair CD Rom - get one!!
 
2010...you already have 24K on it? That's the first valve check interval after the 600 mile check that typically the dealer does as they go thru a list of things to re-torque after initial run in...anyways you are there. The onboard computer stores a valve check date...I access it thru our GS-911.

yes, actually I think its at 25530. Its almost a year old but looks alot older. I didn't mean to put so many miles on it so quick. I'll slow down, I didn't realize I would have to buy so many tires.

The valve clearance says IA every 18,000 mi. That is under the 6000 & each add 12,000 mi column. My impression of that means to IA valves at 6000 then after another 18,000mi. I'm quite confident that the dealer didn't do it at the 600mi or the 6000mi. I won't be going back there anyway.

Another dealer says the service cost 600.00 if any valves need adjusting it would be an additional 120.00 per valve. I guess it wouldn't be under warranty if an engine component wears before the warranty expires.

I really don't expect any are incorrect but I thought I'd check for the fun of it.

If it had the 600 mile check...I would personally just button it up and come back in 24K miles. riding sounds like a lot more FUN!

Which is more funner: Riding after paying dealer to service your bike or riding after you get done working on your bike?
 
Sure looks easy in the picture.
Thanks


I ordered one from the dealer. They will call me back when it gets in. That was 3 months ago.
 
Any riding is better...but def if you don't have to pay someone else to service your bike ! I have an 09 GS also that just spun 34K...and I don't ride it all the time...Tires & oil...repeat:dance

Thanks for the pics Luis...I was looking at them, but too tired to go thru the posting process...!
 
Gas leak

I thought I'd just throw this out here. I have a small gas leak sort of.....
The tube that comes from behind the coolant tank on the left side of bike.
I assume its the charcoal canister or something. It is a gas smell and it is leaking from that location running down the engine block.

Now, remember, this bike has been tipped over several times but only on accident not on purpose if that matters. My gas mileage has actually increased. Its not like it drips from the bike but it is constantly wet along the block halves where there is some gray rtv.
 
Any riding is better...but def if you don't have to pay someone else to service your bike ! I have an 09 GS also that just spun 34K...and I don't ride it all the time...Tires & oil...repeat:dance

Thanks for the pics Luis...I was looking at them, but too tired to go thru the posting process...!

Steve - looking thru the reprom I did not see any mention of how to move the crank once the cover is removed to expose, it doesn't call out a tool - so some further investigation is needed.
 
I had one stripped down the other day doing the coolant flush... wasn't time for a valve check so I didn't pull the cover...I "think" that is a square drive hole for a 1/2" drive extension.


And Tourist...
may be the cannister if it is a small vent hose...there is only one gas quick connect on the tank and it is on the right front inside quarter( the pump assy is right in the middle of the front edge of tank) I have changed ours to brass and removed the plastic male & female connectors...don't know if BMW has upgraded on the newer models...at least the male fitting should now be metal like the Hexheads. Have seen two of these broken on an K-12S and a K-12R...one was spraying fuel when the pump was running. Really obvious leak on one...a light dribble on the other. Both were 05-06 models
 
Steve - you got part numbers for the metal connectors?

Noted on the 1/2 in drive receiver - seems archaic...
 
The red arrow is where the vent or "drain" tube connects to. The other end is near the kickstand. It appears to be coming from that location. I just thought maybe there is a puddle of gas in side the round cannister from getting tipped over and is slowly leaking out.

Is the blue arrow pointing to the correct location to access the crank. If so, how to get it off? It looks glued with silicone. I haven't tried a hammer and chisel yet. Just want to confirm and maybe there is a trick without using a hammer.

Looked at the bucket with all the coolant and is quite dirty. Don't think I will filter it maybe just replace coolant.

P8130015.JPG
 
Steve - you got part numbers for the metal connectors?

Noted on the 1/2 in drive receiver - seems archaic...


the old 90 was:

13537674765 PLUG - 90?? (to 08/06)

I don't see a superseded number, but my 09 has a metal male, but the female tank fitting is still plastic...or was after the current service I am doing

We got the complete kits from the Boneyard for all the bikes...the same ones fit the GSA or the K...so I just got several of the GSA sets to have a spare for folks.
The plastic female unscrews easily from the pump plate and they give you a tube of fuel resistant sealant to install the new one

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdisconk12s.html

A relatively small investment to avoid a potential leak! My 07 GSA had one break around 3K as I was riding into work...the top fuel pump plate was full of fuel when I smelled it and stopped..luckily at the dealers door a few blocks from work.


I wonder if they put the 1/2 receiver there so you can use the air gun to rotate the engine faster at times...certainly too fast to line up the timing marks though:)
 
The red arrow is where the vent or "drain" tube connects to. The other end is near the kickstand. It appears to be coming from that location. I just thought maybe there is a puddle of gas in side the round cannister from getting tipped over and is slowly leaking out.

Is the blue arrow pointing to the correct location to access the crank. If so, how to get it off? It looks glued with silicone. I haven't tried a hammer and chisel yet. Just want to confirm and maybe there is a trick without using a hammer.


View attachment 24625


That tube is on the canister behind the coolant tank...you do seem to have fuel in the canister by what you are seeing. $40 ish canister or bypass it if you aren't EPA paranoid. Not wanting to start a debate on charcoal canisters..AGAIN!

the access point is on the front right side of engine. Mine looks like a silver metal plug witha large TORX socket hole as opposed to the pic in Luis post. the RepRom shows a rubber seal like a press fit...I see no threads?
 

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