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Oilhead Oil Thread

roger 04 rt

roger 04 rt

New member
I know that this is the subject that everyone seems to love to hate, and I've read many oil threads here already. But the other day I followed this link BMW Service Notes through to this document Summary of Permissible Oils.

Written in 2007, it seems to indicate pretty clearly the viscosities and ratings for various conditions. Of note it says that all opposed twins may use API SF or better with no limit to SH (as it does for wet clutch bikes).

From my prior reading here I believed that I needed to find an SG or SH rating, which I did recently. Why shouldn't I take this document at face value?
RB
 
Roger 04 RT said:
I know that this is the subject that everyone seems to love to hate, and I've read many oil threads here already. But the other day I followed this link BMW Service Notes through to this document Summary of Permissible Oils.

Written in 2007, it seems to indicate pretty clearly the viscosities and ratings for various conditions. Of note it says that all opposed twins may use API SF or better with no limit to SH (as it does for wet clutch bikes).

From my prior reading here I believed that I needed to find an SG or SH rating, which I did recently. Why shouldn't I take this document at face value?
RB
Click to expand...

It all depends on what they define as "better".
 
PGlaves said:
It all depends on what they define as "better".
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul. I struggled with what "better" meant but then noticed that for wet-clutch K bikes they specifically limited us to mineral-based and not to exceed SH. I don't have a problem using the Mobil 1 4T 10W40 but in the winter it is very cold here and I'd prefer a 0W40 synthetic.
 
Roger 04 RT said:
Thanks Paul. I struggled with what "better" meant but then noticed that for wet-clutch K bikes they specifically limited us to mineral-based and not to exceed SH. I don't have a problem using the Mobil 1 4T 10W40 but in the winter it is very cold here and I'd prefer a 0W40 synthetic.
Click to expand...

Well, gee, read some Mobil 1 specs and bet you'll find ZERO could pour differences between a 0W and a 5W and a 10W. These are synthetics.
 
Castrol Grand Prix

Is Castrol Grand Prix motorcycle oil not available in the US?
It's an SG rated, dino-derived oil that's a lot less money than synthetics and pretty common here at Canadian Tire and Walmart. I've used it for years in various bikes with no issues.
Cheers,
Tony
 
lkchris said:
Well, gee, read some Mobil 1 specs and bet you'll find ZERO could pour differences between a 0W and a 5W and a 10W. These are synthetics.
Click to expand...

The Cold pour points are similar. The difference that I'm looking at is the Viscosity which does vary with the first number.

At 40C as the engine is warming up, Mobil 1's specs are:

0W30: 63
20W50 V Twin: 172
10W40 4T: 82

As I understand it the system does its best lubricating at a Viscosity of 10. So I sure don't want the V Twin oil in winter.

I hadn't seen the service bulletin and wondered if others had.
 
bikerfish1100 said:
a 10W oil is rated down to temps of -20.

you riding at those numbers?
Click to expand...

Starting the bike at -10C to 0C as time and snow up here permit.

10W is rated there but I think you're talking pour point not viscosity. The viscosity is still much higher than 0W. My understanding is much of an engine's wear occurs during cold start. If the ZDDP is more important than cold viscosity, fine but the SB seems to list newer oils as, to quote them, Permissible.

The BMW Bulletin I linked to shows 5W30 as preferred for -20C to +20C. There is a 5W40 Mobil Diesel Oil but it's VI cold is still pretty high.
 
because if you are starting it "to charge the battery", or "to keep the oil lubricating all the different internal parts", or some other equally silly reason, JUST STOP IT!
http://youtu.be/_gyL1QFcls0

(your statement of "Starting the bike at -10C to 0C as time and snow up here permit" was unclear as to what you do with it after you get it started, if anything.
 
Who would start it for those reasons? The purpose of starting a bike is to ride it.

But that's not the question of this thread. What I wanted to know was why BMW okayed the oils SF and beyond, an expansion of the conventional sf, SG, sh limits.
 
Roger 04 RT said:
Who would start it for those reasons? The purpose of starting a bike is to ride it.
But that's not the question of this thread. What I wanted to know was why BMW okayed the oils SF and beyond, an expansion of the conventional sf, SG, sh limits.
Click to expand...

good on ya.

not a clue as to your "why BMW...?" question.
 
I bought my bike from an engineer who has done some independent testing with engine oils, together with a few colleagues. He said they placed a tiny bit of oil into a metal saucer and lowered a heavy metal ball to make contact with that saucer. Then they spun the ball for hours at very high speeds and low speeds intermittently.

His words: "Pretty much all other oils tested started to smoke, except Amsoil!" One of the oils were the BMW branded stuff.

Since I'm not an expert in the field but had that oil in all other bikes I've ever owned, that's my choice for the Beemer, too. I change it once every year with (crossout 5W20) 10W40 and use Amsoil 75W90 for tranny and final drive as well. Obviously it meets or exceeds any oil standards required for the bike.
 
Last edited:
The 40W rating matches well with the engines usual range of operating temperatures in the Northeast. My user manual and Clymers is silent on oil weight.

This document from the OP suggests 40W is fine except in really hot conditions.
 
Roger 04 RT said:
The 40W rating matches well with the engines usual range of operating temperatures in the Northeast. My user manual and Clymers is silent on oil weight.

This document from the OP suggests 40W is fine except in really hot conditions.
Click to expand...

that doc said 10W40 is appropriate up to 30C, which translates to 86 F. Above that, it calls for 15W50 or 20W50.
Not sure what your summer has been like back east (hot like everywhere else in the country?) but here in CO we are approaching (and will surpass before the weekend) 60 days of above 90 for this season, and the hottest July on record.

i will stick with 20W50, thank you.
 
bikerfish1100 said:
that doc said 10W40 is appropriate up to 30C, which translates to 86 F. Above that, it calls for 15W50 or 20W50.
Not sure what your summer has been like back east (hot like everywhere else in the country?) but here in CO we are approaching (and will surpass before the weekend) 60 days of above 90 for this season, and the hottest July on record.

i will stick with 20W50, thank you.
Click to expand...

You're right we've had our hot days. For the summer here, the W50 oils would be good choices but for the other 9 months, it seems to me the 10W40 are a better match. I'm not worried running synthetic 10W40 year round.
 
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