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Gerbings or Warm-n-Safe question

BJ_CT

New member
Both of these companies pretty much insist that the controller needs to be hard wired to the battery. I'm wondering why. 12vDC to the controller is 12vDC to the controller as long as the wiring is heavy enough. I have a Fuzeblock that's getting power via 10ga wires. I'm thinking there's no reason I can't cut the wires to fit and route directly to my Fuzeblock. Yes, I'm aware that it voids the warranty. The only possible reason I can think of is that the length of the wires have some impact on impedence or voltage drop but this ain't no space shuttle we're talkin' about. Anyone know for sure what the reason is?:scratch
 
At least the Gerbing jackets can be outfitted with a Powerlet style plug that plugs in to the BMW supplied sockets. I have this on my Gerbing jacket liner, and I used a Fuzeblock to provide two Powerlet sockets on the dash panel of my R1200ST, one switched and one unswitched. I was under the impression that you could do this with the Warm and Safe, too.

Edit: I just visited the Gerbing website and found the plug on the Products -> Accessories page, right at the top.
 
Both of these companies pretty much insist that the controller needs to be hard wired to the battery. I'm wondering why. 12vDC to the controller is 12vDC to the controller as long as the wiring is heavy enough. I have a Fuzeblock that's getting power via 10ga wires. I'm thinking there's no reason I can't cut the wires to fit and route directly to my Fuzeblock. Yes, I'm aware that it voids the warranty. The only possible reason I can think of is that the length of the wires have some impact on impedence or voltage drop but this ain't no space shuttle we're talkin' about. Anyone know for sure what the reason is?:scratch
Hi BJ_CT welcome to the forum. I think your Fuzeblock actually qualifies as a direct to the battery connection. This kind of statement from the manufacturer, on this type of product is for "simplicity" for lack of a better term. They don't know what bike it will go on or the ratings of the power outlet on the bike. There is also the variable of are you going to use gloves, jacket, pants or all three. The direct to the battery takes those variables out of the equation. BTW it is better to a 12v source than a power outlet. A good choice would to wire the Gerbing pigtail (female end) to your fuseblock-you should be good to go. HTH, Gary
 
heated clothing wiring, etc

BJ_CT...I echo the welcome. Per other comment, using the Fuze Block, or another related product, as the source for the heated clothing power is not a big issue...as long as the respective circuit on the device is rated for the load, typically 15A or so, with the Gerbings harnesses.

I use different power distribution devices and all have one or two circuits dedicated or used for the 15A heated clothing service, via direct harness to the standard co-axial connector, which then connects to the heated clothing directly or via a controller, or from the power distribution device to an accessory plug (typically Powerlet) with a 15A minimum rating. This provides options where multiple connections might be needed as well.

For example the original newer generation Beemers are limited to 5A on the CANBus accessory outlets, whereas many of the new models now have a 10A rating on the accessory outlets, so they are viable for direct use with more heated clothing garments. But I always add one or two 15A circuits for the full load or heavier draw garments.

Cheers, Bruce
 
Please keep in mind that with the Fuzeblock each circuit can handle up to 10A (120W). 10 Amp fuse per device.
 
Rewire:)

My '07GSA had the 5amp service plugs:(. No use at all! I simply rewired the two factory plugs direct to my battery, fuse in line. One plug is dash mounted and i use it to power my Gerbings vest with micro wire tech. Much heat indeed:). Randy
 
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