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Synthetic works better in high temp operations
Yeah, I have heard this, so I usually go buy the Mobil1 15000 mile stuff at $8 to $10 a quart for my oilhead.
Then I feel like an idiot when I change it at 3000-4000 mile intervals.
If you want to scientifically determine when you can safely change oil, give Blackstone Labs a try:
I notice on their sample results that two tests are not done that I think would be good for considering the health of oil. That is TAN and TBN...total acid number and total base number. If one were to consider this sort of thing, it would make sense to first send in a sample of fresh oil. The fresh oil will show that the TBN is quite high...this is the base additives there to counteract the acids that build up. TAN should be essentially zero. Over time, TBN comes down and TAN goes up. Typically, the oil should be changed, among other indicators, when TBN and TAN equal each other.
They did that test for me for free since they also were interested in the numbers.
The prepaid service plan I bought my my R1200R recently expired so I did my own oil change. I used full synthetic and the dealer had been using a blend. I could tell an amazing difference in smoothness, quietness, and running temperature. It hurt to spend $64 on 4 liters of Motorex, but it was worth it.
The prepaid service plan I bought my my R1200R recently expired so I did my own oil change. I used full synthetic and the dealer had been using a blend. I could tell an amazing difference in smoothness, quietness, and running temperature. It hurt to spend $64 on 4 liters of Motorex, but it was worth it.
The prepaid service plan I bought my my R1200R recently expired so I did my own oil change. I used full synthetic and the dealer had been using a blend. I could tell an amazing difference in smoothness, quietness, and running temperature. It hurt to spend $64 on 4 liters of Motorex, but it was worth it.