• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

78 r 80/7 sub frame

Y

yankeeone

New member
Hi, I was wondering what attaches to the lower holes on the tabs where the sub frame bolts to the main frame, the upper part of the sub frame?

Also the upper sub frame bolts that are on the bike are regular bolts, so to get the battery in and out, I have to pull the bolts out to slide the battery by, is this correct?
the bike is 78 r80/7


Brian
 
Battery should be able to slide out by moving it forward into the area occupied by the air cleaner assembly, once all the air cleaner stuff (intake tubes, 2 sided clamshell and filter) is removed.

Lift handle on left side uses up 2 holes, but not sure if that was the missing part/holes you were asking about.
 
Brian -

I'm not sure about the lower bolts, but as for the upper bolts, I remember it well removing the regular sized lead-acid battery. I find I have to remove one of the upper bolts and maybe help spread the frame a skosh. Also, it helps a lot to loosen the undertray bolts that hold the rubber mounts in place as well as the two bolts on the upper sides. This allows for the whole tray to be tilted back and makes sliding the battery out much easier. Yes, getting one of the newer fangled batteries eliminates all this, but I have some comfort in using the stock sized lead-acid battery.
 
20774 said:
Brian -

I'm not sure about the lower bolts, but as for the upper bolts, I remember it well removing the regular sized lead-acid battery. I find I have to remove one of the upper bolts and maybe help spread the frame a skosh. Also, it helps a lot to loosen the undertray bolts that hold the rubber mounts in place as well as the two bolts on the upper sides. This allows for the whole tray to be tilted back and makes sliding the battery out much easier. Yes, getting one of the newer fangled batteries eliminates all this, but I have some comfort in using the stock sized lead-acid battery.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the same deal on my '82 RS. I've had the Panasonic battery in there for five years now. I used foam spacers so the width is OK in the battery box. Nice grab hole design in the top makes it easy to pull out. The stock OEM BMW battery (still dry and waiting for the Panasonic to croak) requires the removal of the two top rear frame bolts, loosening of the battery box mount bolts so it tilts back all the way to the fender and even then it's a tight squeeze to get in there. It does fit the battery box perfectly.
 
Battery removal

I have had good luck sliding the battery forward into the void created by removing the air filter clamshell on my older airheads.I seem to find that there is always one battery box rubber standoff that proves recalcitrant!
Russ
'76 R90/6 '78 R80/7 '78 R100RS
 
beemerus said:
I have had good luck sliding the battery forward into the void created by removing the air filter clamshell on my older airheads.I seem to find that there is always one battery box rubber standoff that proves recalcitrant!
Russ
'76 R90/6 '78 R80/7 '78 R100RS
Click to expand...

I'll have to give that a try when the Panasonic dies. It's been in there five years and it won't be long now judging from the slower cranking after sitting a few days.
 
Update on frame bolts. I had an 86 r80 a few years back, and the upper bolts on the sub frame were counter sunk, I got the newer style bolts and the one ream that I own was had the right size point to set them flush, so maybe I will get the battery in and out.
 
44817 said:
I always assumed those extra holes were for a sidecar.
Click to expand...

As lchris will point out, BMWs after 1969 are not designed to handle a sidecar and the loads plus the front suspension is wrong...that's what the Earles fork was all about. People do it, but it's not really recommended.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

RANBUSH
'05 R1200 ST "threaded pin" on rear sub-frame ?
Replies
3
Views
1K
RANBUSH
RANBUSH
pauls1150
Adding Parallel Battery Cables
Replies
7
Views
2K
mikegalbicka
mikegalbicka
gtgt_bangbang
verify pls a REAR CALIPER ~circa 78 R100
Replies
2
Views
562
gtgt_bangbang
gtgt_bangbang
pauls1150
SpeedMetal LED Headlight Conversion
Replies
4
Views
1K
gordsmarsredrt
gordsmarsredrt
6
Battery tie down for R 100 Rt Classic
Replies
7
Views
1K
69zeff65
6
Back
Top