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Post a pic of your Airhead

After a 26yr. hiatus, my 5th. airhd. r60/5...r75/5........r90/6.....................r90s....................`````````````````````````````````````````````````r100t
 

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Just moved from MA to OK. Was able to find a little water out here:clap

Your in OK? Where? My girlfriend and I will be living out there for a bit around august/september.


I've got a r75/5 ('71). Looks like Ill be learning to do a lot of work on the bike myself! haha.
 
Nice,clean, simple lines.
Love, love, love it !

(I think that you are referring to the painting) Looking at doing canvas prints for September. Not sure about market but will give it a try. Will likely have appropriate lettering as one option and plan print without lettering as the second. If that all goes forward, I will post here. As of now it is being used on our Salty Fog Riders shirt (watch for the shirts at the RA in June...... wish that we could also scoot west to catch the MOA but you may see some folks wearing them there anyway)- Bob
 
My '83 R65

I've been looking for a Beemer for over a year (wanted one for over 45). I picked this one up about 3 weeks ago.
 

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Here's a picture of my 1988 R100RT which I bought two and a half months ago. Of course, I took off the RT fairing. Not my style, though I know a lot of people think this is sacrilege. It was a mess when I got it. I spent hours with a toothbrush and degreaser getting the crud off. Replaced the fork seals and put on gaiters. The cylinder bases were resealed before I got it. I inspected the engine with the jugs off and everything looked good inside. I made a nifty mod with an ignition switch ring from an R65. Also did some wiring work to clean up after the fairing removal. And put on new Michelin Pilot Activs. And some wide, low bars. I have the hardware ($$$) to return the headlight mounts and front turn signals to stock. Will get around to installing those eventually. I'd like to do a complete rebuild, but money is a bit tight right now.

The bike runs and handles perfectly. I just love it. It's my fifth BMW airhead, but the first one in many, many years. I also have a 2012 Ducati Monster 1100 Evo, which is a fantastic bike in its own right. But I think if I could only have one motorcycle, of the two I'd keep the Beemer.

-Henry
 

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That ignition switch re-location is a high-value procedure. There is no small demand for the kind of build-down you have done here.
 
That ignition switch re-location is a high-value procedure. There is no small demand for the kind of build-down you have done here.
Thanks for the note. In case this can be of use to anyone else, here are some details.

The part you want is from an older R65. It's "plate," 61 32 1 243 656. The ignition switch in the standard bikes mounts into the dashboard ("hub cap," they call it) in a different way than the fairing mount switch from the RT. You have to remove some material from the dashboard to create a recess for the switch plate to fit flush. I used a Dremel sanding drum; it took five minutes and was easy to do. Then I epoxied the plate to the "hub cap" using J-B Weld. The result is plenty strong and looks like it could be stock.

The wiring was a bit more complicated. I didn't want to cut the connector off the wiring harness because new harnesses are no longer available from BMW. So I pulled all the pins out of the connector and pushed the end of the wiring harness through the rubber boot on the bottom of the headlight shell. It's a tight fit. Then I reassembled the connector.

I made what I call an "adapter harness" by cutting down the original RT upper fairing harness. I brought out separate leads for the left and right turn signals and terminated the ignition and instrument lighting wires in a nine-pin Molex connector. I soldered wires directly to the ignition switch and brought these down and into the headlight shell as well. A matching Molex connector on the ignition switch harness plugs into my adapter harness. Everything is sheathed in heat-shrink tubing.

Right now I don't have a clock and voltmeter, but if I add them in the future I can just plug extra pins into the ignition switch connector and bring the wires out.

The adapter harness has the advantage of keeping the main harness stock, at the expense of adding another set of contacts. But it's in a dry location and I haven't had any reliability issues.

The temporary turn signal assembly is a half-inch piece of brass tubing, covered in heat-shrink. I hot-melt glued some generic turn signals into the ends and tie wrapped the thing to the forks as you can see. Ugly, but effective. The signals I used have smaller bulbs in them than stock, which made the flashers blink too fast. I bought an LED compatible flasher relay at AutoZone. It was much cheaper than the BMW unit, plugged right in, and works fine.

-Henry
 
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