'85 K100RT Cruise control?

Any experience with after market cruise control for older K bikes? Is one even available that is worth putting on?

Thanks

Try the $5 spring-loaded throttle set screw, works great for me. I have mine set so that I can take my hand off the throttle and it will hold speed for about 15 seconds, then it slowly starts throttling down.

Ted said:

Try the $5 spring-loaded throttle set screw, works great for me. I have mine set so that I can take my hand off the throttle and it will hold speed for about 15 seconds, then it slowly starts throttling down.

Click to expand...

Ted, 'splain what you are talking about?

On the underside of the throttle assembly there should be a place to install a spring-loaded set screw that can be used to hold tension on the throttle tube.

Essentially an inexpensive cruise control.

I had one on my 87 K75, used it exactly as Ted describes, and never had to readjust it. (Note, you probably need a finger or two around around the throttle - leaving two or three fingers for the brake lever - in order to roll off the throttle as you apply the front brake. The very thought of not using four fingers on the front brake lever gives some people fits. For $5 or so, you may want to see if this solution is for you.)

At some point, BMW stopped drilling this hole. It doesn't exist on my 92 K100RS and I never found an after market "cruise control" that fit the bike. Had to invent one, which works on the same principle of "just enough friction." It works well but is not easily disabled (which the screw is) if you should want to lend the bike to someone unfamiliar with this device.

Anybody else here know something we don't on this subject?

Should be a thumb screw from the factory on the 85, well at least their is on mine.

Ted said:

Try the $5 spring-loaded throttle set screw, works great for me. I have mine set so that I can take my hand off the throttle and it will hold speed for about 15 seconds, then it slowly starts throttling down.

Click to expand...

AKA "Suicide throttle" - for good reason.

I've installed the (now former) AudioVox CCS-100 cruise control on a Kawasaki C-10 Concours and a '90 VW Vanagon. I've read write-ups for the CCS-100 on a FJR. Although a certain amount of ingenuity is involved (figuring out where to mount the servo, vacuum booster, and where to pick off carb vacuum), the process is fundamentally straightforward. Connections are 12 V power, tap to the brakes (senses brakes being applied to release the servo), tap to low voltage side of the spark coil (senses engine speed - the servo then maintains the set speed), and off to the two button control (on/off - set/recall).

The servo is a vacuum-actuated device that pulls in on a throttle cable to speed up. There are any of a number of ways to attach the end of the servo cable to the throttle linkage - the CCS-100 is intended to fit a variety of applications and includes all sorts of bits and pieces. The CCS-100 also includes a magnetic sensor to create a vehicle speed sensor if a) there's no access to an electronic speedo signal or b) using a spark coil is impractical. I've never used it, I've always used the coil signal.

AFAIK, the only source for the CCS-100 is Murphs Kits, a primarily Concours after-market dealer. LINK AudioVox no longer sells the CCS-100; MurphsKits sells the CCS-100 as a "white box" OEM kit. It is complete with all hardware. The manual and how-to's are available only in PDF form from MurphsKits.com (see the above link) - no charge, of course.

I've dealt with Murph for years - he's honest, he's reliable, and he gets it done. [/two thumbs up]

The CCS-100 works as well as any automotive cruise control and as well as the cruise control on my '03 K1200RS. Push SET and it locks onto whatever speed the vehicle is moving at (I've gotten locks at 15 MPH but it's not recommended for speeds below 35 MPH). On the VW, I've used it at speeds up to 75 MPH and somewhat more on the Concours (not a bright idea, but I tried it).

Once engaged, tapping the brakes or turning the CCS-100 off will disengage the servo. The servo also disengages if the engine suddenly speeds up (release the clutch to shift).

Although the vacuum canister is not required, I strongly recommend using it a) for vacuum storage or buffering and b) for the one-way valve - both protect the engine and servo from sudden surges when twisting or closing the throttle in a hurry. Also, if you have or plan to have LED brake lights, get the brake light relay. LED's don't draw enough current to reliably trigger a servo release when hitting the brakes.

This is not a "plug and play" project, but it's not something that demands a full-on machine shop, either. If changing oil or plugs is a challenge, don't do it. If you're comfortable with a good set of tools, know which end of a voltmeter is which, and have some time and patience, go for it!

DISCLAIMER: I have no connection with MurphsKits.com save as a customer. AudioVox no longer sells the CCS-100; NTL, I have no connection with AudioVox or its OEM source for the CCS-100 save as a customer. Ditto for BMW Motorrad while we're at it.

unless you crank the living beejeezus out of that set screw, it is not nearly even close to being a "suicide throttle". anyone foolish enough to set it that tight probably deserves the difficluties that they create for themselves.
drop the big coin on an electronic, or just get the set screw from a dealer for $10.
however, take a look underneath your throttle and see what you already have there- you either have that bolt and spring, a semi-clear plastic plug, or nothing at all.

#18 on the fiche (i went to an airhead model, but its the same part for K bikes.)
32 72 1 230 874 LOCKING BOLT (to 09/80) 0.02 1 $9.65

I have no bolt or plug on the underside of my throttle.

I have both the electronic deal and a throttlemiester (sp) bar end weight/ friction lock on my 93 LT and use them both. I will use the electronic when on the slab and the friction device when running slower.

You can precisely adjust the tension to whatever you like from soft resistance like Ted runs with the screw to where it will not move without assistance.
Jeff

+1 on the set screw, Mike. I've had it since I bought the bike. Which would be 27 years. If you don't like it, try some of the other solutions. I never did. But then, I'm old & slow, also.

The set screw has a spring-loaded plastic nipple at the end, so you can adjust it so it juuuuust has a little drag on it which will keep the throttle in place for a few seconds. Set that way it in no way impedes throttle on or off and if you hit a bump or road seam the throttle will return. Here is a pic next to another alternative, the NLA flip-a-lever:

Ted said:

The set screw has a spring-loaded plastic nipple at the end, so you can adjust it so it juuuuust has a little drag on it which will keep the throttle in place for a few seconds. Set that way it in no way impedes throttle on or off and if you hit a bump or road seam the throttle will return. Here is a pic next to another alternative, the NLA flip-a-lever:

Click to expand...

Looks great! Wish I had one!

Here's the underside of my throttle



I assume the screw would be in that 'flat' spot on the bottom of my throttle housing?

I cannot really see - there should be a threaded hole, was on my 1994 K75RT, my 1995 K1100RS, and on most all K bikes.

Try Re-Psycle, Used K-Bike Parts or BeemerBobeyard. Shouldn't run more than $5 used.

Good write up on installing cruise control here.

oldnslow said:

Here's the underside of my throttle

I assume the screw would be in that 'flat' spot on the bottom of my throttle housing?

Click to expand...

Actually - no. Take a good look at the photo Ted provided of where the screw goes (the flip-a-lever is screwed into the hole.) It's very close to the pivot bolt for the brake lever... in a round part of the housing. Some replacement nuts for the pivot bolt could interfer with the thumb-screw part of the throttle lock.

The hole is normally filled from the factory with a plastic plug that you have to pry out.

Given your bike is an '85, it DID come with the drilled housing from the factory (only very late 93-94 K75's came without it AFAIK).. it was standard at that time. So if you don't have it - then the housing has been replaced with a much later one.

The photo you show is of the bottom FRONT of the housing. The screw is in the bottom BACK of the housing..

Ok I cant see any place that may have had or could possibly be a place to drill in the housing. My housing looks different than Ted's. This is a California model of K100rt, if that makes a difference?

There is no mention of this screw thing in my owners manual. And the photo of all the controls on the throttle housing is identical to what I have on the bike. I don't think mine has been changed, I think it just wasnt on it.

oldnslow said:

Here's the underside of my throttle



I assume the screw would be in that 'flat' spot on the bottom of my throttle housing?

Click to expand...

Ok, after much research and comparing of pictures from various sources, I have determined that 'if' my bike had the hole for the screw, it would be in the flat section of the throttle housing just below (in this picture) the hole that has an after market grip heater wire running through it. So guess I could drill and tap it out, right?