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Trouble Shooting Heated Grips-2002 R1150RT

jhgilbert

New member
Grips used to work fine, now don't. I checked voltage to the connector under the gas tank and it says I'm getting .03 volts on low and high settings. Fuse is good. I'm assuming previous owner installed it. PO also installed a European styled RH grip switch, on which the kill switch failed this summer. However when I bought the bike, he included the original RH grip switch, which I re-installed when the kill switch failed.

I'm wondering about the voltage (.03). What could be affecting the voltage? I'm wondering if the replacement switch is bad and that's why the PO replaced it with the EU switch. Any further checks I could make before spending a bundle on a new switch?
 
I like to start simple.

0.03V would be about enough from the grease/oil from your hands to create that voltage. It is inconsequential.

I would confirm that you have system voltage on the bus side of the fuse and on the load side. I have seen fuses that looked good but actually were toast.

After that, a good wiring diagram is your next best friend. Don't hold me to this but heated grips don't have a relay but if you have power to the switch and nothing out, it's the switch.

Someone here should point you to a good wiring diagram for your bike.

For me, I don't need to worry about heated grips anymore. I do have to get the will power to fix my snow blower. Damn night shift, they don't get anything done.
 
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The voltage you measured is effectively zero, or OFF, and as DY said, inconsequential.
You have an open connection upstream of that which may or may not be the switch.
Here is a wiring diagram for an 1100 you may find easier to read than the manual.

I thought DougRaymond made one for the 1150RT as well but I can't find it.
You could PM him.
 
I tried to upload Doug's schematic, but the MOA server is telling me "Invalid File".
It's a pdf, grrr...
 
The only difference I see in the heated grip wiring for the 1150 is that Doug added a 1.9 ohm resistor in series with the "Low" side of the switch. Otherwise, that ought to get you back in business.
 
Thanks for the schematic. After checking it out with the multimeter, the only thing possible is a bad switch, which is relatively easy to replace while I've got it apart. Not looking forward to buying another $250 part though.
 
Not the grip?

I have seen the grip be bad so if you have power beyond the switch the grip can be repaired. The ones I have seen fail happen where the wire is soldered to the heating wire or element, sometimes they fail along the heated wire. BMW says its a unit and buy another but you can fix it. Pull back on the rubber flange on the grip and cutback towards the grip end circumferentially around the grip to release the grip from the element (don't cut that or the wire) roll the grip back and expose the wire to resolder it. See: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=770662
 
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