Front Master Cylinders? NEW or Rebuilt kits?

Before you replaced ( a NEW ) front master Cylinder, did you ever consider the rebuilt kit? It just seems to make sense since all exterior parts are in good working order??
I think the price is about one third of a new MASTER Cylinder assy.
If you did do the kit , what was the level of difficulty? any regrets?
thanks
R1100RS 1995

If you need to make a choice between a kit and a new M/Cyl, the deciding factor is a micrometer.

new v rebuilt

I bought a used 1994 R1100RS fro m BMW dealer six years ago had a newly rebuilt master cylinder (front) about a week later leaks dripping on same area of faring (leaks hit old damage spots) dealer instead new master cylinder six years later 70,000 miles no leaks no problems

The bike is 21 yrs old. I've only tried a rebuild kit on one bike and then ended up putting a new master cylinder on the bike. The bore inside the master cylinder wears, can get pitted from moisture and when you put in all back together with new internals it doesn't always work. Yes you can recondition the bore but that involves more tools that you'll only use once, unless you are into fixing old bikes.

So my two cents is bite the bullet and go new.

thanks for the insight!

What I will do is take it apart. Figuring I have nothing to loose in investigating, with the full intension of a buying a new one down the line.
The weird thing is I never had a leak so I always thought the seals and rubber broke down not thinking the cylinder bores dia. may be damaged!
Thanks again for responses.
I may bite the bullet as mentioned.

Minor deposits and corrosion in the bore may be cleaned up with a hone with no issues. Deep pitting will require replacement. Wilwood asembly lube makes for easy assembly and smooth operation.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-290-11087

I've rebuilt mine twice, once in hurry, with used parts from 2 master cylinders and minor cleaning. That lasted 2 years before the seal started to leak again. The second time, I used a rebuild kit from Beemer Boneyard and a Lisle 2 jaw hone.

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=3&division=1&category=1

Next time I bleed the system, I'll have another go with the hone to try to smooth the finish some more. Everything works, there is just a bit more drag than I'd like. The stock stones are 240 grit and I'd like to find a set in the 400 - 500 range.