2008 K12GT - Brake Failure Light

Hi Guys,

Just purchased an 08 with 11k miles - had to remove right fairing to get engine # in order to register (req'd in MN).
Since then, Brake Failure light is lit when I switch on ignition and wait for orange triangle to shut off - took her for a ride and can lock up rear brakes so ABS not working as it should. I've read a bunch about ABS issues with this bike so no big surprise - but certainly hoping it's something minor.

A friend has a GS911 - does it make sense to run the 911 and see what's causing the fault? Inclination is to take to local dealer so they can figure it out as knowing a fault I've got no interest in tearing through the bike to sort it out.

Secondly, seller is running synthetic oil and clutch - when taking off from a stop there is some shuttering but no slippage while riding - understand I'm coming off a K75 which is a dry clutch and totally different so maybe some getting used to - I'd spoken with Brian on this forum and he mentioned this bike goes thru clutches - would it make sense to purchase the Barnett clutch plates and pay dealer to install?

Thank You!

Ken

Might be the pad wear indicator. If you had the wire disconnected at all and powered the bike on it would set a code that would need to be cleared. There were some issues with the wires breaking where they are zip tied near the rad too. The GS911 should show you what the code is and allow you to clear it. If the problem is still present, the code will come back, if not, your good to go.

Not sure what the clutch issue would be, mine has not had any issues with the clutch. Nothing wrong with running synthetic oil, I use Amsoil, but it must be wet clutch compatible. If he was using regular automotive oil, the friction modifiers will make the clutch slip and shorten its life considerably.

mcmxcivrs said:

Might be the pad wear indicator. If you had the wire disconnected at all and powered the bike on it would set a code that would need to be cleared. There were some issues with the wires breaking where they are zip tied near the rad too. The GS911 should show you what the code is and allow you to clear it. If the problem is still present, the code will come back, if not, your good to go.

Not sure what the clutch issue would be, mine has not had any issues with the clutch. Nothing wrong with running synthetic oil, I use Amsoil, but it must be wet clutch compatible. If he was using regular automotive oil, the friction modifiers will make the clutch slip and shorten its life considerably.

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Thanks - all we did was remove right fairing - no wires were disconnected - is the pad wear indicator on the calipers?

Clutch hopefully ok - not sure what brand oil PO used but will change for good measure - am told Castrol Dino 10/40 is good on this bike?

Spoke with my friend who has the GS911 tool and going to meet up with him and see what we can find before going to dealer. Will follow up with what happens.

The pad wear indicator is built into the pads, the wire runs up with the brake lines and connects under the fairing panel on the right side by the rad.

Any oil that carries a motorcycle JASO MA or MA2 rating is what you need. JASO MB rated oil is not for wet clutches either.

Previous owner said he put BMW 15/40 m/c oil in the bike- I'll have to check the specs to double check that this oil is compatible with wet clutch.

kentuvman said:

Previous owner said he put BMW 15/40 m/c oil in the bike- I'll have to check the specs to double check that this oil is compatible with wet clutch.

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A previous oil thread
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?85746-Engine-oil-recommend-for-my-2007-GT

The spec went to 5-40 early in the run due to chirpy clutches. Really need to be careful with wet clutch and additives in non motorcycle specific oils...don't use generic oil
The guys who wear these clutches out are either using wrong oil or just really hard on clutches.Some folks need an automatic tranny

Also a long thread on the K-bikes forum about the early versions (including my '07 and your '08) that didn't have an adequate oil supply to the clutch, with subsequent buildup of wear "gunk" that fouled the plates.

This one:

http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=51004

About 25 posts down, a LONG diagnosis of some of the core issues with the original design by "fourhundred4", and potential remedies. Mine "squawks" every so often on takeoff at 43k miles, but otherwise works ok. I'll investigate some of these remedies when the time comes.

ljmattox said:

Also a long thread on the K-bikes forum about the early versions (including my '07 and your '08) that didn't have an adequate oil supply to the clutch, with subsequent buildup of wear "gunk" that fouled the plates.

This one:

http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=51004

About 25 posts down, a LONG diagnosis of some of the core issues with the original design by "fourhundred4", and potential remedies. Mine "squawks" every so often on takeoff at 43k miles, but otherwise works ok. I'll investigate some of these remedies when the time comes.

Click to expand...

Great thread on K12 clutch deficiencies- looks like there's a problem keeping the wet clutch wet!

henzilla said:

A previous oil thread
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?85746-Engine-oil-recommend-for-my-2007-GT

The spec went to 5-40 early in the run due to chirpy clutches. Really need to be careful with wet clutch and additives in non motorcycle specific oils...don't use generic oil
The guys who wear these clutches out are either using wrong oil or just really hard on clutches.Some folks need an automatic tranny

Click to expand...

Thanks Steve!