F800S dies repeatedly on start

2007 F800S 38,xxx miles. New to me with a couple hundred miles I put on the bike. No service records. Purchased from Alamo BMW in San Antonio TX.

Since the test ride it has been doing this. Start with bike with the starter button. Runs a few seconds and dies. Need to do this 4 - 5 times before the bike will idle without dying. Dealer gave the the BMW fuel conditioner, but that hasn't effected any change.

Just got a GS911 tool. Performed the 'Idle Actuator Calibration' and that doesn't seem to be it. Not even sure what values I should be observing.

Looking for ideas. Thanks.

tasslehawf said:

2007 F800S 38,xxx miles. New to me with a couple hundred miles I put on the bike. No service records. Purchased from Alamo BMW in San Antonio TX.

Since the test ride it has been doing this. Start with bike with the starter button. Runs a few seconds and dies. Need to do this 4 - 5 times before the bike will idle without dying. Dealer gave the the BMW fuel conditioner, but that hasn't effected any change.

Just got a GS911 tool. Performed the 'Idle Actuator Calibration' and that doesn't seem to be it. Not even sure what values I should be observing.

Looking for ideas. Thanks.

Click to expand...

I would ride back to Alamo and have them diagnose and fix it. If they think chemicals will clean the injectors maybe they should remove and take them over to Carquest for real cleaning. Or something.

Otherwise, take it to Motohank. Ask around for Hank in Dilley. Or to Henzilla at Blanco.

tasslehawf said:

2007 F800S 38,xxx miles. New to me with a couple hundred miles I put on the bike. No service records. Purchased from Alamo BMW in San Antonio TX.

Since the test ride it has been doing this. Start with bike with the starter button. Runs a few seconds and dies. Need to do this 4 - 5 times before the bike will idle without dying. Dealer gave the the BMW fuel conditioner, but that hasn't effected any change.

Just got a GS911 tool. Performed the 'Idle Actuator Calibration' and that doesn't seem to be it. Not even sure what values I should be observing.

Looking for ideas. Thanks.

Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum!
It seemed to me that this has come up before, but I couldn't remember where
I did some rooting around with a Google search "f800s stalling" and there were a lot of hits. Perhaps you have done this already.
Cool you are already diving in with the GS911
Gary

tasslehawf said:

2007 F800S 38,xxx miles. New to me with a couple hundred miles I put on the bike. No service records. Purchased from Alamo BMW in San Antonio TX.

Since the test ride it has been doing this. Start with bike with the starter button. Runs a few seconds and dies. Need to do this 4 - 5 times before the bike will idle without dying. Dealer gave the the BMW fuel conditioner, but that hasn't effected any change.

Just got a GS911 tool. Performed the 'Idle Actuator Calibration' and that doesn't seem to be it. Not even sure what values I should be observing.

Looking for ideas. Thanks.

Click to expand...

it is possible that one or both of the hoses connecting idle actuator to the throttle bodies has a kink. After removing all the necessary parts to get at the airbox lift the airbox slightly while a helper looks underneath with a flashlight to check hoses, don't pull it all the way off of the throttle bodies.

hope this helps, John

When the bikes starts, before it dies again, does it start right up or have to crank a couple of seconds before it catches? Will it keep running if you open the throttle slightly?

My 2013 F700GS had a very similar problem. It would start and then immediately die.

For a while the problem seemed to be fixed if the dealer reset the adaptive settings in the engine management. With time the problem got worse; fuel treatment did not help.

Finally the dealer diagnosed bad fuel injectors and replaced them (under warranty). That appeared to fix the problem, but it only lasted a week. Then they diagnosed a bad fuel pump and replaced that (also under warranty). That took a week in the middle of my riding vacation. I *think* the fuel pump replacement fixed it, but after a new battery failed and left me stranded, I traded the bike in, so I don't know if the problem was really resolved.

In 3 years and 12,000 miles I had the fuel tank replaced twice for cracking, the switch clusters replaced, the side-stand switch replaced, the fuel injectors replaced, the fuel pump replaced, and a new battery that failed replaced. All of the repairs were done under warranty, but the dealer is two hours away, and I had to trailer the bike multiple times for repairs.

I thought long and hard before buying another BMW, but I traded the F700 in on a new R1200GS. If I am going to own a BMW I feel much better having a warranty. So far so good.

Ken

Texpaul said:

When the bikes starts, before it dies again, does it start right up or have to crank a couple of seconds before it catches? Will it keep running if you open the throttle slightly?

Click to expand...

It starts immediately. I don't have to crank it at all. I haven't tried opening the throttle.

It does run kindof rough before it warms up.

The problem only occurs when the bike is "warming up". It's kindof the same behavior as if you start a carbed biked without the choke. Once the bike warms up, it runs fine.

The bike sat for awhile at Alamo and I doubt they did any service when they received it or before you bought it. Used bikes are usually sold "as is" so unless it's something obvious any repairs after purchase would probably come out of your pocket. Now, if they would agree to find and fix the issue at no charge to you I would let Alamo figure it out. Other wise I would try one of the two folks suggested earlier.

If you wanted to try something on your own here's what I would do first.

I would try a bottle of HEET (the red bottle) in the gas, let it sit about 20 minutes and see if that helps. If not I would lift the airbox and make sure all the hoses and throttle body snorkels are connected correctly and not split or cracked. While under there I would make sure the connections to the coil caps are tight. I would also check to insure that nothing is blocking the air intake and that the air filter is OK. And just because I'm the paranoid type I would check the fluid level in the radiator.

Texpaul said:

I would try a bottle of HEET (the red bottle) in the gas, let it sit about 20 minutes and see if that helps. If not I would lift the airbox and make sure all the hoses and throttle body snorkels are connected correctly and not split or cracked. While under there I would make sure the connections to the coil caps are tight. I would also check to insure that nothing is blocking the air intake and that the air filter is OK. And just because I'm the paranoid type I would check the fluid level in the radiator.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions! I will try all these.

Yeah, the bike is way out of warranty, but I enjoy doing my own wrenching. When I picked up the bike from the dealer, they thought it might the side stand, but diagnose it as not that. It does have issues with the neutral indicator and the clutch microswitch too...?

tasslehawf said:

2007 F800S 38,xxx miles. New to me with a couple hundred miles I put on the bike. No service records. Purchased from Alamo BMW in San Antonio TX.

Since the test ride it has been doing this. Start with bike with the starter button. Runs a few seconds and dies. Need to do this 4 - 5 times before the bike will idle without dying. Dealer gave the the BMW fuel conditioner, but that hasn't effected any change.

Just got a GS911 tool. Performed the 'Idle Actuator Calibration' and that doesn't seem to be it. Not even sure what values I should be observing.

Looking for ideas. Thanks.

Click to expand...

I have a 07 F800ST. Check with Alamo BMW for warranty work done,thru the VIN number. Key switch and rear wheel flange both were factory recalls in the past.

tasslehawf said:

Thanks for the suggestions! I will try all these.

Yeah, the bike is way out of warranty, but I enjoy doing my own wrenching. When I picked up the bike from the dealer, they thought it might the side stand, but diagnose it as not that. It does have issues with the neutral indicator and the clutch microswitch too...?

Click to expand...

W hat kind of issues?

I'd start with values from the various efi system sensors. O2 sensor, engine coolant temp, inlet air temp.

tasslehawf said:

The problem only occurs when the bike is "warming up". It's kindof the same behavior as if you start a carbed biked without the choke. Once the bike warms up, it runs fine.

Click to expand...

stalling on startup and rough idle are both symptoms of kinked throttle body air hose. The fix is new air hose from dealer, or auto parts shop if you can find the correct size, some folks have slid a spring over the hose to prevent the hose from kinking, kind of a shade tree fix but it works.

also, once the air filter is removed you can shine a flashlight inside the air box and observe the idle actuator go through it's operation when the key is turned on and off.

John

flightdog55 said:

stalling on startup and rough idle are both symptoms of kinked throttle body air hose. The fix is new air hose from dealer, or auto parts shop if you can find the correct size, some folks have slid a spring over the hose to prevent the hose from kinking, kind of a shade tree fix but it works.

also, once the air filter is removed you can shine a flashlight inside the air box and observe the idle actuator go through it's operation when the key is turned on and off.

John

Click to expand...

Looks like this is my next project. This weekend I managed to change the oil and add the iso-heat to the gas tank.

Should I replace the idle actuator hoses if they're crimped? I suppose if they're ruined. What size springs should I get?

tasslehawf said:

Should I replace the idle actuator hoses if they're crimped? I suppose if they're ruined. What size springs should I get?

Click to expand...

They are just vacuum hoses. I'm not sure of the size but an ID of 5mm or 6mm is probably right. Get thick cross section hoses to avoid kinking. Cut to the right length new thick bodied hoses ought not need springs to prevent kinking.

Does 3/16 ID work? Braided hoses ok?

The original German hoses really are "metric", so an "inch" (SAE) size may be a little bit loose or a little bit tight. Loose can be secured with the addition of a tie-wrap (spot-tie) at the junction, but tight will invite a future failure of the hose.

The idle actuator hoses don't look crimped. Not sure what to do... while I have to airbox apart should I still replace the hoses or add the springs?