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Thread: ABS Module at Modulemaster - Can't start bike without ABS? ('94 r1100rs)

  1. #1

    ABS Module at Modulemaster - Can't start bike without ABS? ('94 r1100rs)

    I have removed my ABS II module and sent it away to Modulemaster in Idaho. I wanted to ride so I made two brake lines that feed the fluid from the masters cylinder(s) directly to the brakes. Seems good!

    However my bike won't start. Is there something I have to do to the electronics so the bike will start?

    '94 r1100rs - Thanks

    Jim N
    owner of '86 k75C since August 2014 and since June of 2015 - a '95 r1100rs

  2. #2
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    I remember reading a couple posts about disabling or removing the ABS system on R1100xx bikes and don't recall a starting issue. There was something goofy about the brake lights though, if I remember right... I remembered wrong! The brake light issue appears to only be on R1150xx IABS bikes.
    Last edited by rxcrider; 08-07-2015 at 03:39 PM.

  3. #3
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    From ADVrider Gspot:
    _____________________

    DELETED because it really only applied to IABS on R1150xx models
    Last edited by rxcrider; 08-07-2015 at 03:38 PM.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by jimnto View Post
    Is there something I have to do to the electronics so the bike will start?
    No. There is no interlock between the ABS and the starting/running of the bike. You left something disconnected or maybe the bike is just being balky.

    Is it cranking but not firing, or not cranking?

  5. #5
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rxcrider View Post
    From ADVrider Gspot:
    _____________________

    4.11 Can I completely remove ABS from my bike?

    1100/1150
    Yes, you can remove the ABS from your bike. If you have servo assistance together with your ABS you can remove that as well. You can not remove only the servo.

    Basically, you want to convert your bike from a GSA to a GS (check the second paragraph in this FAQ for the meaning of GS and GSA).
    You do that by bypassing the ABS/servo unit. That is, the brake line from the front handle should go directly to the calipers (without going into the ABS/servo) and likewise for the rear.

    Up front you have two alternatives. The simplest is to contact a supplier of brake lines, Spiegler for example, and tell them
    you have a non-ABS model and that you want to renew everything. This has been done in 2008 and the cost was about USD 200.
    In particular, make sure you obtain a new T where the brake line is to be split into two for both calipers up front.

    The other alternative is to purchase 34 32 7 650965 - Distribution piece. This part then attaches as shown in this image (which is a
    demonstration not an actual drawing) . This approach has not been demonstrated but is believed to work.
    For you rear brake lines you purchases a new line that bypass the ABS/servo unit. You need one of these two lines
    34 32 7 677201 - steel flex brake hose (L=345MM) or 34 32 7 684408 - steel flex brake hose (L=370MM).
    We do not know which one.

    Electrical:
    When the ABS/Servo is removed, all the hardware to operate the tail light and brake light remain. They just need to be connected.
    Everything needed is there, switched power, tail light, brake light, and brake light switches.
    As you can imagine, the front and rear brake levers operate electrical switches. The wiring to those switches terminate in the large ABS connector you mention.
    The tail light and brake light filaments are also wired to that connector.
    There is a switched voltage wire at that connector as well. BUT it is a special switched voltage, it is 'hot' both when the key is on, and when the key is in the park position.
    Once that 'special' switched voltage is found, pull and replace the fuses one by one to determine which fuse supplies that wire.
    Check your Owner's Manual, maybe the brake and tail light fuses are listed.

    The brake light: The switches seems to be different than normal ones (conducting when the level is not pressed). Several suggestions has been made.
    To replace them with ordinary switches (from a non-ABS model) is probably simplest.

    Then, finally, you can remove the large and heavy ABS/servo unit from the bike, together with the break lines that no longer is in use.
    You would probably also want to remove the bulbs in the now flashing ABS lights on your dash.

    ________________________
    The above electrical info does not apply to the OP. His bike is ABS II, the brake light switches are hard wired.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  6. #6
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    If it happens to be in the cranks but doesn't fire category, did you possibly get the fuel lines hooked up backwards? Not that I have any experience with that.

  7. #7
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    The above electrical info does not apply to the OP. His bike is ABS II, the brake light switches are hard wired.
    Yeah - sort of odd that they clumped the 1100 ABSII with the 1150 IABS, but I seem to recall there still being an issue... time to dig around a bit...

    OK - back with a sort of answer - couldn't find a diagram showing how the ABS ties to the brake switches (has to somehow, right?) but I found the discussions I remembered and I think that the people chiming in about brake switch issues in R1100xx threads probably had done the work on R1150xx bikes instead. Assuming ours is wired the same as an R1100S, there appears to be no issue with just disconnecting. The biggest concern seems to be making sure the power leads to the modulator are taped off well because they are neither switched, nor fused from what I read. I'm going to just delete that post since it really isn't relevant.

    Here is an R1100S ABSectomy write up that probably pertains pretty well:
    http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r...absectomy.html

    At any rate, Anton has your main answer. Something else is amiss; time to troubleshoot and retrace your steps.

  8. #8
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rxcrider View Post
    Yeah - sort of odd that they clumped the 1100 ABSII with the 1150 IABS, but I seem to recall there still being an issue... time to dig around a bit...

    OK - back with a sort of answer - couldn't find a diagram showing how the ABS ties to the brake switches (has to somehow, right?) but I found the discussions I remembered and I think that the people chiming in about brake switch issues in R1100xx threads probably had done the work on R1150xx bikes instead. Assuming ours is wired the same as an R1100S, there appears to be no issue with just disconnecting. The biggest concern seems to be making sure the power leads to the modulator are taped off well because they are neither switched, nor fused from what I read. I'm going to just delete that post since it really isn't relevant.

    Here is an R1100S ABSectomy write up that probably pertains pretty well:
    http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r...absectomy.html
    On all ABS II bikes (1100 and some 1150's) the brake circuit is hardwired and has no connection to the ABS System.

    On Servo (ABS III - some 1150's) the brake switches input the module with reverse logic (supervisory loop) The module activates the brake light and supervises the lamp filament as well.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  9. #9
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    On all ABS II bikes (1100 and some 1150's) the brake circuit is hardwired and has no connection to the ABS System.
    Hmmm - didn't realize that some 1150 models got ABS II; thought it was a clean break. Not that it has anything to do with the original issue, but I'd think there has to be some connection from the brake switches to the ABS controller so it can tell the difference between locked / skidding (brakes applied) and wheel slip under acceleration.

  10. #10
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rxcrider View Post
    Hmmm - didn't realize that some 1150 models got ABS II; thought it was a clean break. Not that it has anything to do with the original issue, but I'd think there has to be some connection from the brake switches to the ABS controller so it can tell the difference between locked / skidding (brakes applied) and wheel slip under acceleration.
    The wheel sensors and internal hydraulics do that, no need to reference the brake switches or lamp.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  11. #11

    Thanks for replies. Brake lights work - cranks - doesn't catch

    Seems electrical to me. I have removed the hydro unit (and the brain - because it is all together) but just now - as I was writing this- I think I know what the problem might be. i was trying to move the main ECU and I might have it unplugged. I plugged it in and it is running on one cylinder. I guess I flooded as I was cranking with no ECU (What a dummy)
    Here are the brake lines I fabricated.
    20150807_113824.jpg
    and
    20150807_114210.jpg
    owner of '86 k75C since August 2014 and since June of 2015 - a '95 r1100rs

  12. #12
    Running on one cylinder sounds like a throttle cable is not fully seated in the throttle body. Typically happens on the right.

  13. #13

    Yup! Thanks for all help - also needed starter relay which seems to have helped

    Quote Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
    Running on one cylinder sounds like a throttle cable is not fully seated in the throttle body. Typically happens on the right.
    YEup you were right. Here is where we are and then i have a couple questions.
    Got Module back from Modulemaster and finally the bike usually starts without stripping a fault. I did jam on the brakes on gravel and the rear wheel locked up...
    BUT IT PASSED SAFETY AND IS ON THE ROAD.
    The neutral light came on everytime I pull the clutch so I had to send to Germany for a new starter relay (in the fusebox). I learned from someone on this list that a diode goes bad and is the cause. Now it's fixed.

    I suspect my armature of the starter has separated because: !) It starts slow and 2) the ABS faults every few times and I think the starter must be drawing a hell of a lot of current.

    How do I test the starter to see if I need to order a new can?

    Thanks for helping me get on the road so far.

    Does anyone want my cheater brake lines so they can ride their bike of they have to send their module in? See pictures above.

    Cheers and many thanks.

    Jim N
    owner of '86 k75C since August 2014 and since June of 2015 - a '95 r1100rs

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