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Thread: R-26 Owners - advice needed

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2015

    R-26 Owners - advice needed

    Greetings all,

    I purchased an original 1960 R-26 a few months ago and have finally finished stripping it down to the frame. Since the original factory manual is a joke, a big thanks to Vech and Richard at Bench Mark Works for their advice. I would love to hear from any R-26/27 owners out there, as I'm getting ready to make some paint vs powder coating decisions, etc.

    A few pictures attached....a "before" shot, one of the tank (looks brand new inside) and finally sitting very lonely in the garage.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    San Antonio, TX
    Nice job! I don't really have any thoughts about your decision, but you could search the forum...I know there's been quite a bit of discussion in the Airheads area. Use the google link at the top and put in " powdercoat" and see what has been talked about.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  3. #3
    Superkraut typ181r90's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    I used paint on my BMW R90/6, I used powdercoat on my Aermacchi 250SS. Having gone both ways, I'm using powdercoat for my 57 R60.

    * The place I go to blasts everything down to bare metal and then coats it and the price is incredibly reasonable. The rims cost me $35 a piece, fenders $75 a piece, and the tank (two-tone) was about $250 if I remember correctly. Sending all that out for paint would probably have doubled or trebled the price.
    * The finish is more durable and there are tons of different powder shades out there if you're worried about color matching - I was not returning the Aermacchi to stock, so it didn't matter to me.
    * Powdercoat is much more durable with temperature, you could put it on cylinders or heads with no issues, with paint you'd need to buy special high-temp paint.

    * Powdercoat can scratch, when that happens you can't just buy touch up paint somewhere. That being said, powdercoat works as an excellent primer should you ever want to paint over it.
    * Powdercoating isn't impervious to alcohol in fuels. I never clearcoated over the powdercoat and I got a small drop of gas on top of the tank after filling the tank in my garage (using a portable red gas container). This little drop streaked due to gravity and left a mark on the tank, it wasn't super noticeable, and trying to polish it by hand a little helped, but again you can't fix things like you would paint.
    * I needed to coat the inside of my gas tank using Caswell tank sealer. With Powdercoating, this has to be done AFTER the powdercoating as the baking process with crack any epoxy tank liners. It wasn't a big deal, but you have to be incredibly careful when lining the tank to not get anything on the finished product - I survived but it was nerve-wracking.
    * Your metal must be perfect before powdercoat because they blast everything off to clean the stuff.

    I'm not returned to stock colors on my R60 and I'm probably going to go the powdercoat route again, definitely with the frame, fenders, and cylinders. I may go paint with the tank because it's not in the best shape, or I may powdercoat it for the primer, and then paint over that. I have to get my crank rebuilt and then assemble my engine before any of this happens though.
    // 1975 BMW R90/6 (cafe'd) // 1957 BMW R60 (in pieces) // 1967 Aermacchi/H-D Sprint 250 SS (custom special) // 1973 VW Type 181 Custom SOLD )

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