• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

clutch spline lube, @ 32ks?

g rad

g rad
Haven't seen much about lubing the spline on my 2011 GSA.. Does anyone recommend it? That BMW mechanic on youtube Chris Harris, discusses clutch R1150 problems of not using the full length of spline on the trans input shaft.. I'm hoping that that was corrected on the later years... I realize that it would be a involved job, removing rear subframe etc. Just wondering if anyone has done it..
 
Haven't seen much about lubing the spline on my 2011 GSA.. Does anyone recommend it? That BMW mechanic on youtube Chris Harris, discusses clutch R1150 problems of not using the full length of spline on the trans input shaft.. I'm hoping that that was corrected on the later years... I realize that it would be a involved job, removing rear subframe etc. Just wondering if anyone has done it..
I understand that's not an issue on the 1200s. I'm not aware of anyone who routinely lubes the clutch spline like you had to do on the 1100s.

JayJay
 
Haven't seen much about lubing the spline on my 2011 GSA.. Does anyone recommend it? That BMW mechanic on youtube Chris Harris, discusses clutch R1150 problems of not using the full length of spline on the trans input shaft.. I'm hoping that that was corrected on the later years... I realize that it would be a involved job, removing rear subframe etc. Just wondering if anyone has done it..
Welcome to the forum! Where ya been :)
If you need any help- just ask.
Gary
 
Every time I say that I'd probably do it, Don Eilenberger responds that there have been very very few failures on the 1200s. Then I say, time will tell. It is hard to have data when there is scant evidence of failure.

So, take your pick and take your chances.
 
Every time I say that I'd probably do it, Don Eilenberger responds that there have been very very few failures on the 1200s. Then I say, time will tell. It is hard to have data when there is scant evidence of failure.

So, take your pick and take your chances.

i know of one spline failure on a 2013RT....MINE at about 21000 miles

Input Large.jpgClutch Large.jpg\
 
Thanks Wyman

Those photos look just like a lot I have seen of 1150 and 1100 bikes.

Which leaves me not exactly sure what to say.
 
Wyman, I remember you posting when this happened, but I'm not sure I've seen anyone else report this??? And this doesn't strike me as a function of lubricant, which is what OP asked about initially. Seems to me this is simply the torque overcame the material structure (which is really what the 1100 problem was - insufficient spline engagement by design).

JayJay
 
Thanks Wyman

Those photos look just like a lot I have seen of 1150 and 1100 bikes.

Which leaves me not exactly sure what to say.

Ok.I have a feeling of hard use of clutch.Only one question turning in my head.....Lost Rider aka Joe Finn.Destroid the drive shaft but not the clutch!!!???Sooo...it makes me thinking....Starting with rubber burning...wheelies...I don't know.But looking on the driveshaft and the plate ,it sugjest mee a really hard driving.And -or using the clutch all the time.Lost Rider did cca100,000mls on roadless roads not destroying the splinn...just wondering.But probably He could tell us more from the first hand.In the other hand it might bee not enaugh heat treat in factory production,...simply this kind of wear is not normal at all.If it is properly heat trietened,there should not bee a wear at all.If it is overtreatened,it would brake like a glass.Conclusion:mistake in manufacturing.That whot I am suspicious.

BRGDS,Steve
 
Nice pictures of the failure Wyman~
FWIW, I have seen this type of failure in truck transmissions (power take-off) to hydraulic pumps. The PTO shaft engages matching splines in, say, a 3 section hydraulic pump. The cause is always blamed on lubrication- but I don't know. Worse thing about it is that you have a perfectly good PTO and a perfectly good pump that won't mate up.
The cure is usually new parts (both) due to rebuild expense vs ready to go parts. I have done "git-home" repairs in the field to enable hydraulic service but it is a PITA.
OM
 
Wyman, I remember you posting when this happened, but I'm not sure I've seen anyone else report this??? And this doesn't strike me as a function of lubricant, which is what OP asked about initially. Seems to me this is simply the torque overcame the material structure (which is really what the 1100 problem was - insufficient spline engagement by design).

JayJay

Chris Harris also posited that riding style may affect it. He thought that people that get into 6th gear too soon had problems. In other words, people that babied it. He said that GS riders that were revving more never had problems, but it was the people that loaf along at 3000 RPM in a too high a gear.
 
Chris Harris also posited that riding style may affect it. He thought that people that get into 6th gear too soon had problems. In other words, people that babied it. He said that GS riders that were revving more never had problems, but it was the people that loaf along at 3000 RPM in a too high a gear.

i would agree that "babying" may me a cause, but not in my case.....most of the time i wring Sassy's neck....she loves being in the powerband....6500rpm plus.....

i was told that BMW had not seen this type of failure on the 2010-2013 R types.....since the warranty repair the bike has been flawless to 54000 miles in less than two years.....AND she is on her 8th set of tires...that should indicate how she is ridden...:)
 
i would agree that "babying" may me a cause, but not in my case.....most of the time i wring Sassy's neck....she loves being in the powerband....6500rpm plus.....

i was told that BMW had not seen this type of failure on the 2010-2013 R types.....since the warranty repair the bike has been flawless to 54000 miles in less than two years.....AND she is on her 8th set of tires...that should indicate how she is ridden...:)

Then I would chalk it up to defective parts.
 
Then I would chalk it up to defective parts.

i agree....

when i bought the RT and rode it home i never noticed any shifting problems...sure not silky smooth like most rice burners, but no issues.....i took it in for its 600 mile running in service and from that point until the splines let loose the down shifting was different.....it would hold the rpms up slightly and i would have to blip the throttle to get it to down shift....i was told by the dealer where i bought the bike from that "that's the way BMWs shift"....not hardly...after the repair the gearbox shifts perfectly....so, i can only attribute it to my lack of knowledge and a defect in the parts and/or assembly....the Techs at BMW MC of Long Beach did the repair BTW.....i will never go back to where i bought the RT.....zero customer service....
 
i agree....

when i bought the RT and rode it home i never noticed any shifting problems...sure not silky smooth like most rice burners, but no issues.....i took it in for its 600 mile running in service and from that point until the splines let loose the down shifting was different.....it would hold the rpms up slightly and i would have to blip the throttle to get it to down shift....i was told by the dealer where i bought the bike from that "that's the way BMWs shift"....not hardly...after the repair the gearbox shifts perfectly....so, i can only attribute it to my lack of knowledge and a defect in the parts and/or assembly....the Techs at BMW MC of Long Beach did the repair BTW.....i will never go back to where i bought the RT.....zero customer service....

This is an absolute classic description of a dry, unlubricated spline. We began describing these symptoms with Airheads in the '70s, K bikes in the '80s, and Oilheads in the '90s. If your bike acts like this - needing double clutching like an old milk truck - you are headed to a failure unless you inspect, lubricate, or replace as needed.
 
As Paul suggested - I'll chime in on the topic. I'm active on several R1200 forums.. and have been here since this forum started. So far Wyman's failure is the only one I can confirm. And as he noted - it hasn't repeated with an additional 54,000 miles put on the new clutch/splines.

I'm sure there might have been others, but it's not endemic like it was on other model BMW bikes. I'm at 95K+ miles on mine and it still shifts just fine and has never been apart. Since the engine/transmission combo has been on the market for 10+ years I suspect if there was a real problem that needed addressing, we would have heard about it here.

IMHO - there is no problem with clutch splines on the R1200XX series of bikes. There also haven't been multiple reports of the clutch slave cylinder failing, so I suspect that's another item BMW got after the engineers on. And yes - Joe Finn (Lost Rider) did loose a driveshaft, but his was subject to rather extreme abuse, including riding in sand with a failed rubber boot on the swingarm/rear-drive joint. There have been a few other driveshaft U-joint failures (one happened to a friend when we were out riding), but so far - mine when I check it feels smooth and play-free in all planes, so it's not a worry point for me. BMW did design the pivot points so the paralever pivots around the axis of the U-joints, which removed the off-axis movement on earlier designs that may have contributed to early failure, and spline wear on the rear-drive.

I sort of look at the R1200R series of bikes as perfected R1150's - BMW removed or fixed most of the known problems with those bike when they designed the newer bike. They introduced a few new problems, but in my experience, it's a more reliable bike (mine just completed a coast-2-coast-2-coast ride, started with 87,000 miles on it, ended up with 95,300 when I got home. I never doubted that it would get me home.)
 
This is an absolute classic description of a dry, unlubricated spline. We began describing these symptoms with Airheads in the '70s, K bikes in the '80s, and Oilheads in the '90s. If your bike acts like this - needing double clutching like an old milk truck - you are headed to a failure unless you inspect, lubricate, or replace as needed.

I'm new to the "modern" boxers (2009 R1200GS) coming from the airhead world. I never gave spline lube on these machines a thought. Is it necessary? How much work is involved?
 
I'm new to the "modern" boxers (2009 R1200GS) coming from the airhead world. I never gave spline lube on these machines a thought. Is it necessary? How much work is involved?

You'd have to split the bike in half. It's ridiculous really, to have to do that today and from what I understand, we don't. It would cost a fortune if we had to pay the labor to apply a buck's worth of lube, if that and a lot of time if we did it ourselves.
 
I'm new to the "modern" boxers (2009 R1200GS) coming from the airhead world. I never gave spline lube on these machines a thought. Is it necessary? How much work is involved?

The thread above pretty much answers your questions.
 
I'd say listen to Paul. It may not be easy, or inexpensive (when someone else does the work) but proper maintenance always makes machinery last longer.
 
Back
Top