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Thread: Newly purchased 1997 R1100RS, ABS issue

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    Newbie drj434343's Avatar
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    Newly purchased 1997 R1100RS, ABS issue

    I made the leap from airheads into oilheads and purchased a 1997 R1100RS on Saturday. Thanks to all here who provided some tips on what to look for.

    One thing I didn't notice until I got it home was an issue with the ABS. When I turn the button on and activate the ignition, neither of the two ABS lights on the dash start blinking like I think they're supposed to do until you activate the brakes. The only thing that I do hear is a steady clicking noise, about once per second, on the lower center portion of the right side of the bike.

    I haven't pulled anything apart yet. Do these symptoms ring a bell for anyone? Is there a good place for me to start?

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    Bulbs

    Quote Originally Posted by drj434343 View Post
    I made the leap from airheads into oilheads and purchased a 1997 R1100RS on Saturday. Thanks to all here who provided some tips on what to look for.

    One thing I didn't notice until I got it home was an issue with the ABS. When I turn the button on and activate the ignition, neither of the two ABS lights on the dash start blinking like I think they're supposed to do until you activate the brakes. The only thing that I do hear is a steady clicking noise, about once per second, on the lower center portion of the right side of the bike.

    I haven't pulled anything apart yet. Do these symptoms ring a bell for anyone? Is there a good place for me to start?
    Burnt out bulbs?

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    Quote Originally Posted by drj434343 View Post
    ..The only thing that I do hear is a steady clicking noise, about once per second, on the lower center portion of the right side of the bike.
    The clicking noise is most likely the blue ABS relay under the seat. It is trying to flash the upper "ABS" light on the dash and normally stops after the bike has moved forward about 30 ft.

    Sounds like an interrupted wire to the bulb or bad bulb.
    You have good ears at least.
    --
    Doug Raymond
    R1150RT '02
    Ambler, PA

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    Newbie drj434343's Avatar
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    OK, I will test it by seeing if the clicking stops after moving the bike forward a bit. Last night I was testing it the K75 way, which turns the light off by actuating the front and rear brake at least once.

    Perhaps I could just spin each tire the equivalent of 30 ft while on the center stand? It's cold and rainy here until this weekend.

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    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drj434343 View Post
    OK, I will test it by seeing if the clicking stops after moving the bike forward a bit. Last night I was testing it the K75 way, which turns the light off by actuating the front and rear brake at least once.

    Perhaps I could just spin each tire the equivalent of 30 ft while on the center stand? It's cold and rainy here until this weekend.
    Don't do it. The system will probably fault and then your next thread will be titled how to reset ABS faults.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://www.bigbend.net/users/glaves

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    Newbie drj434343's Avatar
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    I wonder how robust that system is. For instance, if people put different sized tires on, where the ratio of the radii are different from stock, that would also mismatch the wheel rotations. It seems like the front and rear must be totally separate systems.

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    Benchwrenching PGlaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drj434343 View Post
    I wonder how robust that system is. For instance, if people put different sized tires on, where the ratio of the radii are different from stock, that would also mismatch the wheel rotations. It seems like the front and rear must be totally separate systems.
    Nope
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://www.bigbend.net/users/glaves

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    The light bulbs have probably been removed

    The ABS unit in your bike is pretty stout and simple, it takes a lot to brake them. I would suggest first that you check to see if it is actually working as it should.
    Key and switch on and start the bike after a five count.
    Take the bike down the driveway and listen for a electronic clunk noise of the ABS setting and engaging. The clicking noise on the left side should stop.
    Find a small patch of sand and try locking up the rear brake on it. If it locks up your ABS is disabled and needs to be diagnosed.
    If the ABS works and the brakes don't lock up check the bulbs in the warning lights.

    The previous owner may have known about the ABS failure and removed the warning light bulbs so a potential buyer would not notice the ABS wasn't working.

    If your ABS isn't working you have to dig a little deeper.

    Do a google search on ABS fault codes for you specific bike, most of the time the codes show low battery voltage. Its very common and is due to a poorly thought out self check mode for the ABS.
    You could get away with just resetting your ABS and nothing more. You really should learn how to reset the ABS at a minimum as it is simple, easy but very difficult for me to remember just how to do it. I regrettably sold my RS a number of years ago.

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    Newbie drj434343's Avatar
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    OK, I've done a bit more research. First, 69zeff65 was right, both bulbs have been removed.

    I also removed the battery. It was a BMW brand dated from 2008. I previously noted that it drained in about 1 week. I measured the current draw on the battery terminals with the ignition off and keys removed and measured 2.1 mA. I seem to remember someone saying it should be less than 2 mA.

    Right now, it seems prudent to replace this battery and put some bulbs in the ABS indicators and then reengage the problem.

    Reading a little about the fault modes of ABS II in Clymer and Haynes, they seem to just want to explain that when you have alternative blinking, the ABS has a fault and has disengaged itself. I can press the ABS button to acknowledge this but that's about it. They both insinuate that troubleshooting beyond that means taking it to the dealer. Largaider has a bit more information about what I can do, but I need to be riding it to determine when the failure occurs.

    I'll report back when I have more information. Any additional advice appreciated.
    Last edited by drj434343; 11-08-2014 at 07:48 PM.

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    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Once you get the bulbs and battery replaced it might make sense to clear the ABS faults if there are any. Procedure for that is on Anton's site here:
    http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html

    See what happens after that.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

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    The ABS and its components are simple

    I managed to reset, trouble shoot and repair the ABS in a '95 RS a few years back and then a '95 K 1100 LT, no book or prior knowledge. This forum and the internet will get you through it. Here is a suggestion while you probe and repair the ABS. Replace all your rubber brake lines with stainless steel ones and bleed the brakes thoroughly. It may not have any connection to your current issue but at least with my two vintage ABS bikes it seemed as though I got the ABS brakes working just in time for the brake lines to start leaking. Try a Speigler kit

    I know it seems as though the money is flowing into the bike nonstop, get it right and ride the "you know what" out it. It appears as though the seller knew about the brake problem and simply hid it from you. If you just don't want to spend the money or feel you got taken you could always ask politely for a refund based on the omission of the failed ABS brakes issue and the sellers apparent attempt to hide it. I personally would make contact with the seller and try to work something out in regards to the repair and cost of it and the disabled warning lights. You never know the guy might fold up and offer to split the repair cost or buy the bike back outright.

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    Newbie drj434343's Avatar
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    Thanks for the encouragement. I am not too worried about getting the ABS back up and running. The bike was a good price, evidently the seller had a slightly guilty conscience because he accepted my low offer. The original owner of the bike most likely took good care of it; there are notes in the Clymer manual that indicate such. The seller I bought from only had it a few years. There are clues on the bike, though, that indicate the original owner was anal retentive about care. I'm confident the core of the bike is good.

    That said, I have Speigler lines on order, along with a battery and bulbs. I'll replace those, reset the ABS and report back.

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    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
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    When you bleed the brakes, don't forget the two bleed screws on top of the ABS module.

    Module Masters does rebuilds http://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/sho.../abs-fte-abs2/

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    Newbie drj434343's Avatar
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    Well, I got lucky. New battery with bulbs in the ABS sockets. Double blinking of the ABS lights with ignition engagement. Both lights went out after about 30 ft and I heard the system self test.

    So, it seems the system works just fine. I'm not sure why the previous owner would have decided to pull the bulbs instead of suspecting the battery, but the system seems just fine.

    Thanks for all the advice! I'll be back with the next issue as I sort the bike out I'm sure!

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    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Gotta love an inexpensive happy ending!

    The PO probably got tired of staring at the lights that never went out due to the ABS not initializing properly which was due to the low battery? I've known some owners like that. I'll never understand them but I've known some!
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

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