Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Shock bolt came out of final drive '95 K75S

  1. #1
    Registered User KARSTEN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Mobile,Al.
    Posts
    145

    Shock bolt came out of final drive '95 K75S

    Good morning, I have pulled the final drive in a new to me 95 K75S to service the splines. When I attempted to pull the shock mounting nut from the stud that secures the shock to the final drive, the stud with the nut came unscrewed out of the final drive as one unit. When I was finally able to separate the nut from the stud, I discovered someone had used a lock nut ( nut lined with Nylon?). I do not think it belongs there, how would you apply torque to the nut if it is a lock nut.
    Now my challenge is to reinstall the threaded bolt into the final drive and make sure it is secure. I know the torque for the nut is 51 NM, that is nut to stud. What about threaded stud into final drive ? I have not been able to find a value anywhere. For securing the stud to final drive, which loctite is best. Final question is: the final drive to swing arm bolts are to be torqued at 40NM, I cant think of a way to get a torque wrench in there, I used allen wrench, the "L" shaped kind and tightened them, how do I verify torque?

  2. #2
    Registered User drneo66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Rochester, MN
    Posts
    69
    Can't help with the first question - first that I've heard of that happening...

    For your final drive to swing arm bolts. I have a torque wrench with a pivot head (it nods back/forth). So that, plus a series of different extensions, allows me to get them torqued properly. I know that several others have bought ball-end hex sockets - those aren't perfect, but will get you close.

  3. #3
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Riggins, ID
    Posts
    207
    The lock nut wasn't original. It should have been have been a regular nut and flat washer. As long as the threads are in good shape, you can put two nuts together, locked against each on the exposed end of the stud, and with a wrench or socket turn it back into the final drive. Use a red Locktite. Turn it in until it bottoms out and a little tighter, then separate and remove the nuts. It doesn't need to be super tight (remember it's going into an aluminum alloy, not steel), as it's the tension between the torqued nut and stud that keeps it tight. Good riding!
    Gary Phillips - #6322
    Wildland Firefighter, Retired, Riggins, ID
    Heartland Moto Locos BMW Riders
    '77 R100/7 Dirt Hack, '83 R80ST, '85 K100RS w/EML, '00 R1100RS

  4. #4
    13278
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Near Lynchburg, VA
    Posts
    336
    The stud should project from the rear end the appropiate amount for the shock lower mount (original or aftermarket), washer(s) and full threads on the mounting nut.

    After having a shock nut loosen on its own, I use a medium strength or less on the nut and stronger on the stud. Then, maybe, the stud remains fastened and only the nut comes off next time. Since I had one loosen on one bike, I also put a dab of whiteout on the nut and stud to keep an eye on.

    Charlie

  5. #5
    For the stud to housing, look for a Loctite labelled "stud retaining." Mine is RC/609, but it's old.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by 72r60/7 View Post
    The stud should project from the rear end the appropiate amount for the shock lower mount (original or aftermarket), washer(s) and full threads on the mounting nut.

    After having a shock nut loosen on its own, I use a medium strength or less on the nut and stronger on the stud. Then, maybe, the stud remains fastened and only the nut comes off next time. Since I had one loosen on one bike, I also put a dab of whiteout on the nut and stud to keep an eye on.

    Charlie
    KARSTEN,
    I couldn’t help but notice, looking at MAX BMW parts fiche, that PN 33 11 2 310 063 stud into final drive for shock is a M12x70 on our S. The M12x70 also applies to the 75rt and naked K. However the 75c is a M12x60 with a different PN of 07 12 9 908 096 . I never would have guessed that. Maybe that was to match up with the drum brake set up. I know you have a S, so you should have a rear disk brake. right? Just pointing different "stud" lengths. Keep us posted.
    Mike
    Mike
    Deland, Fl.
    1987 K75s 2002 R1150rsl

  7. #7
    Registered User KARSTEN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Mobile,Al.
    Posts
    145
    Quote Originally Posted by 132524 View Post
    KARSTEN,
    I couldn’t help but notice, looking at MAX BMW parts fiche, that PN 33 11 2 310 063 stud into final drive for shock is a M12x70 on our S. The M12x70 also applies to the 75rt and naked K. However the 75c is a M12x60 with a different PN of 07 12 9 908 096 . I never would have guessed that. Maybe that was to match up with the drum brake set up. I know you have a S, so you should have a rear disk brake. right? Just pointing different "stud" lengths. Keep us posted.
    Mike
    yes, it is the "S" with disc brake, strange.Waiting on parts to put it back together and will update as we move ahead.
    Karsten

  8. #8
    Registered User KARSTEN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Mobile,Al.
    Posts
    145
    Update, got my parts (nuts, washers and proper length stud) from BMW. Applied red loctite, torqued the stud to 38 ft lb to the final drive, let it sit and installed new shock. Decided the Progressive 412 is the right shock for this bike/my use of it. After installing the stud I had 40 mm exposed thread out of the final drive, perfect! Thanks for all input and advise. Will ride it for a few days and after that continue my refresher of the bike.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •