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Thread: /5 trans removal

  1. #1
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    /5 trans removal

    Anybody know a good site for instructions on /5 LWB trans removal that isn't Clymer or other manual with other models mixed in?

  2. #2
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    It's pretty straightforward, although you will have to remove the battery and tray, and possibly remove the swingarm pins. Been a while since I did my /7. You might check out Chris Harris on youtube...I suspect he has something that will help out:

    https://www.youtube.com/user/Bavaria...rWrench/videos
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

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    Chris Harris does have something about that, IF you can put up with his potty mouth!!
    "The difference between death and taxes is that death doesn't change every time congress meets." - Will Rogers

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    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Hey, OP - I sent you a PM. It contains a step by step for an R100 trans removal. I'm not posting it here because I didn't write it and I'm not certain who the author is (I think it was Tom Cutter). I don't want to post somebody else's work without giving them credit.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

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    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    These should link to the Chris Harris videos showing removal of an R100 transmission. Videos were part of a 4 part set for doing a spline lube, but part 1 and 2 show the transmission coming out. Yes, he uses a lot of foul language.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVKPGcf0xag Part 1
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8dJzD42eYI Part 2 - These two show gearbox removal.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  6. #6
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    /5 trans

    Michael, thanks for the stuff from Cutter. I was looking at the Chris Harris videos today. Will get started this weekend

  7. #7
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    Hey, OP - I sent you a PM. It contains a step by step for an R100 trans removal. .... I don't want to post somebody else's work without giving them credit.
    Kurt helped me find the original source of the gearbox removal instructions that I used on my 1984 R100. Tom Cutter is a fabulous source of Airhead knowledge and a great mechanic, but he wasn't the source for these particular DIY R&R steps.
    Here is the link:

    http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/r100tic.html#gearbox

    Note: The instructions in the above link include steps for removing the rear wheel and releasing the rear shocks (steps 13-15). I did not do those steps; there was enough room to remove the gearbox just by unhooking the swing arm.

    He also has a link for work done on an R80GS paralever bike, so if you have a later mono-shock Airhead you might go here instead: http://jhau.maliwi.de/mot/r80gs.html#gearbox
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

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    Neutral switch

    How do I disconnect the wire to the safety switch?

  9. #9
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Did the LWB /5 have the neutral switch connect on the backside of the transmission or underneath? On the late /2s and I thought on the early /5s, the neutral switch was under a small plastic cover accessed on the aft side of the transmission. Remove that plastic cover and you'll see a small screw slot...turn that CCW and pull the wire out of the bottom of the small housing.

    If the neutral switch is really underneath the transmission, they should be simple spade terminals which come off with easy tug.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  10. #10
    B Reams brook.reams's Avatar
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    1973 R75/5 LWB Neutral Switch Location

    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Did the LWB /5 have the neutral switch connect on the backside of the transmission or underneath? On the late /2s and I thought on the early /5s, the neutral switch was under a small plastic cover accessed on the aft side of the transmission. Remove that plastic cover and you'll see a small screw slot...turn that CCW and pull the wire out of the bottom of the small housing.

    If the neutral switch is really underneath the transmission, they should be simple spade terminals which come off with easy tug.
    Here's where mine was. It's on the back side and uses a single wire.

    Transmission Neutral Switch Wire
    Transmission Neutral Switch Wire Routing Underneath the Frame

    Tightening Transmission Neutral Switch Screw
    Tightening Transmission Neutral Switch Screw
    ---------------------------------
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW
    2004 R1150-RS || 2002 F650-GS || 1975 R75/6 || 1973 R75/5

  11. #11
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    Trans

    Yes, it's on the backside, just loosened the screw and pulled the wire out.

  12. #12
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    Trans is out

    Boxed and ready to send to Tom Cutter. Not too complicated. Any opinions on drive shaft bolt reuse or replacement? Splines looked dry but good. Thanks for the help.

  13. #13
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    If it were easy to replace the boot later if you found an issue with it, I would reuse it. But since you quite a few steps to get a new boot in there, I'd replace it. I hate having to repeat some work when it could be easily avoided. Price is around $25. Seems reasonable.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  14. #14
    Registered User fxray's Avatar
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    Kurt, I agree with you about replacing the boot, but he actually asked about the driveshaft bolts. On my /6, I discovered the older bolts which were long enough to accomodate split-ring lock washers. Split-ring lockwashers have been a bad idea for a long time. I got rid of those and ordered the shorter bolts (P/N 26111242297) which I will install with some Blue Loctite. You could cut the end off the old bolts and re-use them without the lockwashers, but why take a chance on them since the four new bolts only cost $6.16?

    Ray

  15. #15
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fxray View Post
    Kurt, I agree with you about replacing the boot, but he actually asked about the driveshaft bolts.
    What...you're on me for missing an "l" and instead seeing an "o"? My bad....I completely missed that. Better get my glasses checked!!

    I also agree, that replacing the bolts are a good idea, certainly you don't want to reuse the long bolts with lock washers. Snowbum mentions that if they thread back into the flange easily with fingers, they're probably OK to reuse. A repair shop would almost surely replace them for insurance reasons. Using blue Loctite is a good idea, although putting the right amount of torque on the bolt is good enough. That's what's hard...getting the right kind of adapter with a torque wrench on the bolt. I've done several sets now using Loctite and a good grunt with my tool kit wrench.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

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