Smiling. Your face hurts from smiling and you‘«÷ve only done 30 miles before noon. Focus. Walls of rock to your left, drop off the cliff to your right , stay focused. 40 mph on a lane so narrow you have to stop to let a car go by the other way, yet you are passing the cars in your way. Switchbacks, one after another, after another. You never get the bike out of second gear because you need all the power all the time. The speedo never mattered, the rpms did, because you're always about to redline - in first, in second, maybe in third. Brakes. Imagine engaging the ABS...several times a day, with just the rear brake. Scrape your boot on a right, throw the bike to the left, and scrape your left boot. Inhale as you pass on a blind curve. Lock 'em up as you meet a bus on a hairpin. Pray to god, any god, as you do 150 on the autobahn. Soak in the sun as you sip cappuccino at the top of a mountain pass. Turn into your hotel night after night, so wired up from adrenaline, yet so exhausted you drop into your feather bed and sleep until the village church bells awake you. Turn in your machine at the end of the week, and wonder how you‘«÷ll ever ride the straight road again. Ride the Alps.