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Thread: '94, K1100RS, ABS1, Doesn't work, can't clear fault codes.

  1. #1
    Happily Bent dieselyoda's Avatar
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    '94, K1100RS, ABS1, Doesn't work, can't clear fault codes.

    My 94 K1100RS is a resurrection project and before I get carried away like I did with my K75S, I'm trying to figure out how expensive this thing will be to repair.

    The clutch is hooped, oh well, that's just my labor at about $2.00/hr and likely just a friction disc.

    The ABS1 doesn't function and my error code is the dreaded controller. So me smart, clear the code and see of it returns. I can't clear the codes, light just blinks at me and makes a little nutty.

    At this point, I'm thinking I need to get into a wiring diagram and chase it through. Problem is, where do I get an ABS1 wiring diagram?
    1997 R1100RT (Restored Basket Case) , 1981 KZ 440 LTD (Restored Basket Case)
    1986 K75S(the beutch), 1993 K1100RS (blown engine), 1997 Chev Short Box (4x4 with an LT1)
    "You can easily judge the character of a man by how he treats those who can do nothing for him."

  2. #2
    Registered User 58058D's Avatar
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    I am reasonably sure there is a wiring diagram in the back of the Clymer manual, can't locate mine at the moment, so I could be wrong.
    Jim Douglas '00 K1200RS >135,000 miles my primary bike again,
    Gone: '09 K1300S sold @ 22k mi, '93 K1100RS traded @ 78k mi, '85 K100RS sold @ 44k mi
    '06 Kaw 650R track bike sold
    http://www.seagullbb.com/

  3. #3
    Registered User
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    Cool ABS-1 Doesn't Clear

    I also have a similiar problem on a 1992 K1. Upon examination I noted that the ABS Controller was leaking some clear fluid out of the "Black Box". Oh oh, I said. So I pulled out my Clymer manual and suplement for 1992-3 models and found the schematic useless! Clymer books for Beemers (K and newer R models) for electrical issues dont help much. I say that because the drawings don't include any termination points on the components on the drawings and there is no description on how the circuits actually operate. Nor what connection to the ECU performs what function. Clymer just doesn't bother to investigate how modern engine control systems operate. Yet all modern engines are controlled by ECUs and auxiliary systems are also controlled by code. They just focus on the mechanical side.

    I found that for this type of problem its best to Google for the drawings and information. You need to be carefull when working on these problems involving te ABS controller or the ECU modules. Never, Never use your Meter to read back into these devices. Disconect the connector to these devices to correctly test the inputs into these two controllers or to test the Servos or sensors.

    There are several hits you will get on how to test your ABS-1 system. I have collected a few of them in a couple of serach sessions. I dont have them handy but you will find them.

    Bottom Line: You should run 4 basic tests on the system. DIsconnect the ABS Controller. Test the two ABS pickups for shorts and continuity. also make shure you check the gap on the sensor to the sensor wheel to ensure the gap is set properly. If the sensor has contacted the pickup wheel, its probably bad. Test the two Servos for the same. It comes down to two possible problems. One the Controller has failed ($1,800.00) or a rebuild, if its not been watered down. Or one of your 4 devices / wiring has failed. Google it (BMW K1100 ABS Trouble shooting, K1 ABS Trouble shooting).

    Middletown Mike
    Last edited by 35164; 09-18-2014 at 11:31 AM. Reason: spelling, grammer

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    3 Red Bricks
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