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92 k75 about to go (maybe) buy one. What should I look for.
- Thread starter cele0001
- Start date
Ask if the bike has been sitting or if it's been driven regularly. (driven is better)
Ask to look inside the fuel tank. Open filler cap, remove 4 phillips screws that hold flange to tank, lift flange and cap assembly off insuring not to getr fuel drops on paint. What you're looking for is evidence of the rubber fuel pump damper being dissolved by bad gas. Is the inside of the tank shiny aluminum or does it have a tan or brown tint to it (sign of possible damper deterioration). The pump is on the left side. You might be able to reach in and run your finger against the little bit of the rubber that is between the white plastic pump holder and the aluminum shelf that holds the pump assembly. It should be firm, not gooey and not leave a stain on your finger.
Does the bike downshift easily in the higher gears (5-4,4-3) without noticable pressure on the lever and without blipping the throttle. If not, could be sign of dry or worn clutch splines.
Ask when the last valve adjustment was done and when the rear splines were last lubed. Ask if he has the receipt for the spline lube. If he says that he did it himself, ask him to show you the rear splines (remove final drive) before you finalize the deal. Worn out rear splines from lack of lube can cost between $400, for used replacement, and $1000 for remachined not counting the labor to change the parts.
If it has ABS, make sure it works properly. No warning lights on the dash after riding off and tapping front and rear brake to clear the bulb monitor. On a straight clear road or parking lot, stomp on the rear brake at about 20 mph. If the rear brake shudders (pulses) without just locking up solid, then the ABS should be working.
Check that the gear indicator works correctly.
Do the odometer and speedometer appear to work correctly.
If you buy it, or if you just want something to use to talk him down in price $25-50, check the crankcase vent hose for cracks. The hose is a black rubber hose about 5/8" in diameter molded in a sort of Z shape. It is located on the left side of the engine just to the rear of the throttlebodies and just to the front of the black plastic coil cover. It's in past the throttlebodies but is visible if you get down on your knees. These are notorious for cracking every couple of years right next to each of the two hose clamps. When they crack, they leak oil mist, but worse, they cause the engine to run lean from unmetered air being sucked in (not good). The hose costs $16 from the dealer and is easy to change, but if it is cracked, it shows he wasn't as on top of maintenance as he had been telling you. Also check the vacuum caps on the base of the forward two throttlebodies for cracks for the same lean mixtur reason.
If the rear splines are good (nice flat topped teeth) and it appears to run well and all the controls and lights work, most everything else is pretty easy to fix.
Ask to look inside the fuel tank. Open filler cap, remove 4 phillips screws that hold flange to tank, lift flange and cap assembly off insuring not to getr fuel drops on paint. What you're looking for is evidence of the rubber fuel pump damper being dissolved by bad gas. Is the inside of the tank shiny aluminum or does it have a tan or brown tint to it (sign of possible damper deterioration). The pump is on the left side. You might be able to reach in and run your finger against the little bit of the rubber that is between the white plastic pump holder and the aluminum shelf that holds the pump assembly. It should be firm, not gooey and not leave a stain on your finger.
Does the bike downshift easily in the higher gears (5-4,4-3) without noticable pressure on the lever and without blipping the throttle. If not, could be sign of dry or worn clutch splines.
Ask when the last valve adjustment was done and when the rear splines were last lubed. Ask if he has the receipt for the spline lube. If he says that he did it himself, ask him to show you the rear splines (remove final drive) before you finalize the deal. Worn out rear splines from lack of lube can cost between $400, for used replacement, and $1000 for remachined not counting the labor to change the parts.
If it has ABS, make sure it works properly. No warning lights on the dash after riding off and tapping front and rear brake to clear the bulb monitor. On a straight clear road or parking lot, stomp on the rear brake at about 20 mph. If the rear brake shudders (pulses) without just locking up solid, then the ABS should be working.
Check that the gear indicator works correctly.
Do the odometer and speedometer appear to work correctly.
If you buy it, or if you just want something to use to talk him down in price $25-50, check the crankcase vent hose for cracks. The hose is a black rubber hose about 5/8" in diameter molded in a sort of Z shape. It is located on the left side of the engine just to the rear of the throttlebodies and just to the front of the black plastic coil cover. It's in past the throttlebodies but is visible if you get down on your knees. These are notorious for cracking every couple of years right next to each of the two hose clamps. When they crack, they leak oil mist, but worse, they cause the engine to run lean from unmetered air being sucked in (not good). The hose costs $16 from the dealer and is easy to change, but if it is cracked, it shows he wasn't as on top of maintenance as he had been telling you. Also check the vacuum caps on the base of the forward two throttlebodies for cracks for the same lean mixtur reason.
If the rear splines are good (nice flat topped teeth) and it appears to run well and all the controls and lights work, most everything else is pretty easy to fix.
cele0001
Instigator
I pulled the trigger.
I am a sucker for a bike in need I guess. Could have spent $800 on something else but I guess I will be oilhead/brickhead since I already have R1150R.
I must say I like the bike. Ride home (the most exciting part as you all know) was very nice. Bike is taller than R and more "wobbly" but very nice. It is narrower, I feel I can play with traffic more with it. Engine is smooth and 5th gear is awesome, you can go from 20-90 without shifting, very smooth torque curve. It was ridden hard but still runs well. I am assuming drivetrain is OK. Gotta start going through it slowly, tank is first. I took the fairing off already and I need some plastic pieces. Windshield is cloudy and was wondering if there is replacement for it. Thank you for your input.
What is up with the side cases? Lock here lock there lock everywhere and to take off is an exercise in 3D geometry. What am I missing?
Also when you put the bike on a side stand it leans a little more than I would like. Is there a pad that goes on the foot. There are two holes.
I am a sucker for a bike in need I guess. Could have spent $800 on something else but I guess I will be oilhead/brickhead since I already have R1150R.
I must say I like the bike. Ride home (the most exciting part as you all know) was very nice. Bike is taller than R and more "wobbly" but very nice. It is narrower, I feel I can play with traffic more with it. Engine is smooth and 5th gear is awesome, you can go from 20-90 without shifting, very smooth torque curve. It was ridden hard but still runs well. I am assuming drivetrain is OK. Gotta start going through it slowly, tank is first. I took the fairing off already and I need some plastic pieces. Windshield is cloudy and was wondering if there is replacement for it. Thank you for your input.
What is up with the side cases? Lock here lock there lock everywhere and to take off is an exercise in 3D geometry. What am I missing?
Also when you put the bike on a side stand it leans a little more than I would like. Is there a pad that goes on the foot. There are two holes.
cele0001
Instigator
Ask if the bike has been sitting or if it's been driven regularly. (driven is better)
Ask to look inside the fuel tank. Open filler cap, remove 4 phillips screws that hold flange to tank, lift flange and cap assembly off insuring not to getr fuel drops on paint. What you're looking for is evidence of the rubber fuel pump damper being dissolved by bad gas. Is the inside of the tank shiny aluminum or does it have a tan or brown tint to it (sign of possible damper deterioration). The pump is on the left side. You might be able to reach in and run your finger against the little bit of the rubber that is between the white plastic pump holder and the aluminum shelf that holds the pump assembly. It should be firm, not gooey and not leave a stain on your finger.
Does the bike downshift easily in the higher gears (5-4,4-3) without noticable pressure on the lever and without blipping the throttle. If not, could be sign of dry or worn clutch splines.
Ask when the last valve adjustment was done and when the rear splines were last lubed. Ask if he has the receipt for the spline lube. If he says that he did it himself, ask him to show you the rear splines (remove final drive) before you finalize the deal. Worn out rear splines from lack of lube can cost between $400, for used replacement, and $1000 for remachined not counting the labor to change the parts.
If it has ABS, make sure it works properly. No warning lights on the dash after riding off and tapping front and rear brake to clear the bulb monitor. On a straight clear road or parking lot, stomp on the rear brake at about 20 mph. If the rear brake shudders (pulses) without just locking up solid, then the ABS should be working.
Check that the gear indicator works correctly.
Do the odometer and speedometer appear to work correctly.
If you buy it, or if you just want something to use to talk him down in price $25-50, check the crankcase vent hose for cracks. The hose is a black rubber hose about 5/8" in diameter molded in a sort of Z shape. It is located on the left side of the engine just to the rear of the throttlebodies and just to the front of the black plastic coil cover. It's in past the throttlebodies but is visible if you get down on your knees. These are notorious for cracking every couple of years right next to each of the two hose clamps. When they crack, they leak oil mist, but worse, they cause the engine to run lean from unmetered air being sucked in (not good). The hose costs $16 from the dealer and is easy to change, but if it is cracked, it shows he wasn't as on top of maintenance as he had been telling you. Also check the vacuum caps on the base of the forward two throttlebodies for cracks for the same lean mixtur reason.
If the rear splines are good (nice flat topped teeth) and it appears to run well and all the controls and lights work, most everything else is pretty easy to fix.
Thank you for your advice.
Here is the situation so far.
Rear drive splines like new, lubricated and changed oil in the final drive.
fuel tank has a pinhole leak at the front left edge right above where the grommet hole is. Very strange since it is aluminum tank. It is really tiny and I might just put some marine putty on it. It does not drip, it evaporates before it can make a drop, that is hot tiny it is .Inside of the tank looks good but it has some coating on it. I don't think it came with anything from the factory.
The hose you mentioned is ripped. Fuel pressure regulator is leaking fuel out of the vacuum hose connected to number 3 cylinder so I guess I need one (regulator that is) . Any interchange with car parts? Securing clips for the fuel tank are missing. Fuel lines are crap but I will go in to replace the fuel pressure regulator so they will all go. Rear brake master cylinder is leaking. Any repair kits out there?
ABS light stays on, the general warning turns off after the brake light check. Any suggestions. It does not flash, just stays on.
Should the temperature light and fuel light come on for the light check at startup?
Odometer does not work, probably the same plastic gear from VW and BMW and mostly all European cars of that vintage that gets stripped.
But all in all not bad. Engine sounds very nice. I did a quick throttle body sync and the idle holds steady at 1000 rpms.
Open to your input and suggestions regarding cheap parts and regular maintenance issues.
Thank you again
Esmir
35634
Mars needs women!
water settles at the lowest part of the tank and corrodes the aluminum, gas tank patch or jb weld will fix it. http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml has a wealth of info and interchangeable parts. Someone is making the odo gears but they are still pretty pricey, there was a thread on it somewhere here, good luck finding it! http://www.beemerboneyard.com/ is a good place for some parts, I've dealt with them for years and never been disappointed. Sure others will chime in. Enjoy the ride!
cele0001
Instigator
Ok so the bike is disassembled and waiting for parts.
Transmission is out and fairings are off. Front fairing had a chunk blown out of it when the bike was laid down. I glued it with G-Flex epoxy. That is some good stuff. It looks good. I might sand it down but I just want to ride for now.
All splines are OK (good news, and so is the clutch) I am getting new dampeners for the alternator and fuel pressure regulator and all of the hoses.
Changed engine oil. There is a leak coming from the crankshaft and it looks like it is a little seal inside the flywheel. Rear main seal looks good. I deleted ABS since it didn't work and it cleans up the bike a lot. I am getting new brake lines from non ABS bike installed.
Will post some pictures when I get time.
I have a quick question. Bike came with Russel Day Long seat which is in pretty rough shape. I also got another seat which looks like it should fit but the pan is too deep, it sits on the ME holder. When I removed the holder and put the seat it is fine (sitting on the rails). Are there two different seats for the K bikes or two different ME holders (one without the storage)?
Thank you and I will provide some pictures.
Transmission is out and fairings are off. Front fairing had a chunk blown out of it when the bike was laid down. I glued it with G-Flex epoxy. That is some good stuff. It looks good. I might sand it down but I just want to ride for now.
All splines are OK (good news, and so is the clutch) I am getting new dampeners for the alternator and fuel pressure regulator and all of the hoses.
Changed engine oil. There is a leak coming from the crankshaft and it looks like it is a little seal inside the flywheel. Rear main seal looks good. I deleted ABS since it didn't work and it cleans up the bike a lot. I am getting new brake lines from non ABS bike installed.
Will post some pictures when I get time.
I have a quick question. Bike came with Russel Day Long seat which is in pretty rough shape. I also got another seat which looks like it should fit but the pan is too deep, it sits on the ME holder. When I removed the holder and put the seat it is fine (sitting on the rails). Are there two different seats for the K bikes or two different ME holders (one without the storage)?
Thank you and I will provide some pictures.
Last edited by a moderator:
35634
Mars needs women!
there was a k75 low seat that did not have the battery side covers, underseat storage compartment or hinged seat that the regular seat had. The low seat had a gas tank surround on the back of the tank. They are interchangeable but you need all the miscellaneous parts for each one. They come up on ebay, flea market and IBMWRA pretty regularly.
cele0001
Instigator
Hello again.
I played with the brick a little today. Since I removed the ABS can I remove the ABS control unit and the wiring harness or is it needed for the speedometer? Also somebody here has a set of gears for he odometer for sale from K100. Is there any difference between K100 and K75 as far as the instrument clusters go (odometer gears specifically)
I played with the brick a little today. Since I removed the ABS can I remove the ABS control unit and the wiring harness or is it needed for the speedometer? Also somebody here has a set of gears for he odometer for sale from K100. Is there any difference between K100 and K75 as far as the instrument clusters go (odometer gears specifically)
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
You can certainly remove the ABS control unit.. it has nothing to do with the speedo. The wiring harness might be a tad more difficult since it's part of the main harness of the bike - not a separate harness. There are some short sections that might be removed, but I doubt if the gain is worth the effort.
And K100 and K75 use the same gears in the odometer. The parts are directly interchangeable.
Here's where you can get better new gears:
http://www.odometergears.com/products/BMW/R+&+K+Motorcycles/42
http://www.odometergears.com/products/BMW/R+&+K+Motorcycles/42
cele0001
Instigator
There is a sensor on the final drive. If your speedo is not working, that is also why the odometer is not working. If your self canceling turn indicators don't cancel as well, the problem is the sensor.
I am also thinking about installing the fuel gauge since the sensor in the tank is capable of driving it ( so I read) . Does the gauge have anti-slosh dampening or is there some other way it is done. I know it is "backwards" sensor, I found the number for VDO one.
Speedo is working odo is not so I guess its the gears.
I forgot to mention, check that the fan blade spins freely. There is a good explanation in this months Owners News in the "Benchwrenching" column by Paul Glaves.
If you look to the rear of the "hooked" part ( the part that hooks over the mounting rails) of the bag, there is a small (about 1/2"x 3/4") tab that sticks up. While initially hooking the bag over the rail, this tab must be to the rear of the rail. Once the bag is hooked, you must slide the bag about 1" forward so that the tab is now under the rail. This prevents the bag from lifting up off the rails. Then lock the lower lock.
To remove the bag, unlock the lower lock. Pull bottom of bag out so that lock will clear rail, slide bag towards the rear until tab clears rail, lift off.
It is handy to have a separate lock locking the bag closed. That way when you take your bags off you can leave them locked until you want to open them. I usually only lock the top bag closure lock. That way you can open the bag on the bike in one motion; one hand on key in top lock and other hand on unlocked rear lock.
ALWAYS lock the bags to the bike. One, for security, but also to prevent lock from popping open while riding.
ALWAYS double check that the "hooked" part of the bag is properly over and behind the rail. Check by insuring that the bag slides front to rear easily and back before locking lower lock. Many a bag has been lost because the "hook" was wedged on TOP of the rail and eventually came off.
It's definitely scary the first time! But if the sidestand bolt is loose, or if it has been loose and has bent the U-shaped end of the stand where it goes over the tang on the bracket so that it is overly sloppy, it will lean even more than normal.
But it does come in handy when you have to pull of on the shoulder of a highly cambered narrow road. There have been a couple times that I was the only one who could comfortably get off my bike without worrying about the bike not leaning enough. (Admittedly those we outweighed by the times I'm concerned by how much it leans.)
You could certainly attach a block to the foot of the stand, just be careful not to add too much.
If you look to the rear of the "hooked" part ( the part that hooks over the mounting rails) of the bag, there is a small (about 1/2"x 3/4") tab that sticks up. While initially hooking the bag over the rail, this tab must be to the rear of the rail. Once the bag is hooked, you must slide the bag about 1" forward so that the tab is now under the rail. This prevents the bag from lifting up off the rails. Then lock the lower lock.
To remove the bag, unlock the lower lock. Pull bottom of bag out so that lock will clear rail, slide bag towards the rear until tab clears rail, lift off.
It is handy to have a separate lock locking the bag closed. That way when you take your bags off you can leave them locked until you want to open them. I usually only lock the top bag closure lock. That way you can open the bag on the bike in one motion; one hand on key in top lock and other hand on unlocked rear lock.
ALWAYS lock the bags to the bike. One, for security, but also to prevent lock from popping open while riding.
ALWAYS double check that the "hooked" part of the bag is properly over and behind the rail. Check by insuring that the bag slides front to rear easily and back before locking lower lock. Many a bag has been lost because the "hook" was wedged on TOP of the rail and eventually came off.
It's definitely scary the first time! But if the sidestand bolt is loose, or if it has been loose and has bent the U-shaped end of the stand where it goes over the tang on the bracket so that it is overly sloppy, it will lean even more than normal.
But it does come in handy when you have to pull of on the shoulder of a highly cambered narrow road. There have been a couple times that I was the only one who could comfortably get off my bike without worrying about the bike not leaning enough. (Admittedly those we outweighed by the times I'm concerned by how much it leans.)
You could certainly attach a block to the foot of the stand, just be careful not to add too much.
No. Since they both use very simple circuits with only a switch and a light, unless the engine is hotter than the set point of the switch, the light will not come on. Same for low fuel. Should be approx. 1 gallon left when light comes on if bike is level. Can be adjusted by bending wire in tank that holds float.
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