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92 k75 about to go (maybe) buy one. What should I look for.
- Thread starter cele0001
- Start date
The third generation integral bags (the ones with the bump pads and the roundel ABOVE the reflector) are an inch wider than the previous two generations.
There are two nipples on the bottom of the tank about 8" forward of the right rear corner. The forward nipple is the tank breather. The rear one is the rain drain for the filler cap area. If there are hoses connected to them, they can get kinked. Ideally, there should be a black plastic cup attached to the frame below the nipples with a hose attached to the bottom of the cup draining to the right rear peg plate. This eliminates the hoses attached to the nipples, BUT the tank vent hose goes to the crankcase, so this must be capped so that you don't have a vacuum leak.
Normal
Oil pan is sealant. Oil filter cover is O-ring.
There are four seals that can leak oil into clutch housing:
Engine oil:
rear main seal
O-ring behind nut that holds "flywheel" to output shaft (most common)
Tranny gear oil:
input shaft seal
clutch pushrod seal on rear of input shaft
Fix it soon or you will be buying a new clutch disc, pressure plate, and clutch cover.
cele0001
Instigator
Thank you for your reply lee. I am sure it is gear oil that is coming out.
Transmission input shaft seal should not leak on the clutch plate. It should just go straight down? Push-rod seal should be the only possible culprit, and from my reading the job can be done without transmission removal. Is this correct? If anybody has first hand knowledge, I would appreciate the input.
Thank you
Transmission input shaft seal should not leak on the clutch plate. It should just go straight down? Push-rod seal should be the only possible culprit, and from my reading the job can be done without transmission removal. Is this correct? If anybody has first hand knowledge, I would appreciate the input.
Thank you
I would think that it would be VERY hard to replace the pushrod seal without removing the input shaft from the transmission. That's the only way that I have ever replaced that seal (usually while repairing other things on customer's transmissions).
There MIGHT be a special tool for pulling that seal with the tranny in place, but I'm not aware of one.
There MIGHT be a special tool for pulling that seal with the tranny in place, but I'm not aware of one.
cele0001
Instigator
This is what I found.
There are a couple of good pictures on the first page. If this is the setup, it should be possible (not easy) to replace this seal wit the transmission still in. A good hook should be able to get it out. Worst case transmission comes out but it would be worth a try.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5183.0
There are a couple of good pictures on the first page. If this is the setup, it should be possible (not easy) to replace this seal wit the transmission still in. A good hook should be able to get it out. Worst case transmission comes out but it would be worth a try.
http://www.motobrick.com/index.php?topic=5183.0
One huge problem you're going to have is the clutch pushrod on K75s comes out the FRONT of the input shaft. K100s come out the rear. Trying to get the seal out with the pushrod in place will be next to impossible. If you figure out a way, I'd love to hear it.
Like I said, I take the input shaft out of the tranny to change that seal, but that's a whole different can of worms.
If you do get the seal out, remember orient the seal to prevent oil from going forward.
Like I said, I take the input shaft out of the tranny to change that seal, but that's a whole different can of worms.
If you do get the seal out, remember orient the seal to prevent oil from going forward.
giom
New member
Crankcase breather hose ...
Hi 98lee - once again I find myself in your debt ... just came across this post, checked my breather hose and sure enough it has the cracks you describe - have added a replacement to my Christmas shopping basket.
Cheers!
Gio
check the crankcase vent hose for cracks. The hose is a black rubber hose about 5/8" in diameter molded in a sort of Z shape. It is located on the left side of the engine just to the rear of the throttlebodies and just to the front of the black plastic coil cover. It's in past the throttlebodies but is visible if you get down on your knees. These are notorious for cracking every couple of years right next to each of the two hose clamps. When they crack, they leak oil mist, but worse, they cause the engine to run lean from unmetered air being sucked in (not good). The hose costs $16 from the dealer and is easy to change, but if it is cracked, it shows he wasn't as on top of maintenance as he had been telling you. Also check the vacuum caps on the base of the forward two throttlebodies for cracks for the same lean mixtur reason.
Hi 98lee - once again I find myself in your debt ... just came across this post, checked my breather hose and sure enough it has the cracks you describe - have added a replacement to my Christmas shopping basket.
Cheers!
Gio
cele0001
Instigator
One huge problem you're going to have is the clutch pushrod on K75s comes out the FRONT of the input shaft. K100s come out the rear. Trying to get the seal out with the pushrod in place will be next to impossible. If you figure out a way, I'd love to hear it.
Like I said, I take the input shaft out of the tranny to change that seal, but that's a whole different can of worms.
If you do get the seal out, remember orient the seal to prevent oil from going forward.
Yeah. I forgot about the pushrod. Are you saying there is no way to replace this seal without opening the transmission, or you have never done it that way? If I have to get in the transmission that is another ball of wax altogether. I hate problems that are a lot of work and really nothing to show for. Give me no crank no start any day of the week over leaks.
I've only done it with the input shaft out of the tranny, mainly because I was inside the tranny replacing other things.
Even with the input shaft out, pulling the old seal out was the hardest part because the seal is so small and there is no lip to get a good grip on it.
Obviously, based on the link you posted, people have been able to get the seal replaced without removing the input shaft. Pulling the old one out is the hardest part. Let us know how you fair if you attempt it. If you get stuck once the tranny's out, if you have a Clymer's manual and are a fairly decent mechanic, pulling the input shaft is doable. Then you can also replace the input shaft seal too.
Even with the input shaft out, pulling the old seal out was the hardest part because the seal is so small and there is no lip to get a good grip on it.
Obviously, based on the link you posted, people have been able to get the seal replaced without removing the input shaft. Pulling the old one out is the hardest part. Let us know how you fair if you attempt it. If you get stuck once the tranny's out, if you have a Clymer's manual and are a fairly decent mechanic, pulling the input shaft is doable. Then you can also replace the input shaft seal too.
cele0001
Instigator
Assuming that there is nothing wrong with the transmission (bearings and such) I would need the pushrod seal and the input shaft seal to do the job correctly. Can you think of any other parts that I should order before "going in"? I want to be in and out the same day. Having transmission apart for days is a scary proposition. I have a couple of other things going on in the garage as well.
You will need some aneorobic sealant. Car parts places have this. It has the consitancy of loctite. It seals very thin so as not to effect the bearing preload.
DON'T LOOSE OR MIX UP THE PRELOAD SPACERS on the output and intermediate shaft when you remove the front cover. When you remove the cover, have the input shaft facing straight up and go very slow so that the spacers stay in their proper spots, then mark them with a sharpie so you will remember which goes where.
DON'T LOOSE OR MIX UP THE PRELOAD SPACERS on the output and intermediate shaft when you remove the front cover. When you remove the cover, have the input shaft facing straight up and go very slow so that the spacers stay in their proper spots, then mark them with a sharpie so you will remember which goes where.
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