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Thread: drive splines

  1. #1
    jimmy armour
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    drive splines

    hi guys, just installed new tires, and its about time I had the rear splines repaired ,can anyone, advise ,recomend a repair shop ,and the cost? thanks in advance,Jimmy

  2. #2
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    The best shop that I've heard of is Hansen's Motorcycles in Medford, Oregon. I have no clue as to price.

    Is there some specific issue you have that leads you to consider having this repair made?
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  3. #3
    Monza Blue 1974 R90/6
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    There are a couple of really good alternatives for spline/rear dive repair. You should get replies from some folks with recommendations. I had a good experience with Hansens. My rear drive started leaking. When i looked at the splines, it was clear they were getting worn. As I understand it, the wear accelerates, so even though it was not quite 50%, that didn't mean i was going to get another 30 years out of the remainder. I talked with Hansen's and they gave me an estimate of both cost and time to complete the work and get the drive back to me.

    Hansen's met their turn around time and the estimated cost. I was very pleased with the workmanship and overall experience dealing with them.

    One other thing - the dog on the rear wheel is also going to be worn. You need to consider whether you want to replace the dog when you have the splines renewed.

    I think your cost will be approx $800 for spline renewal, new seals in the rear drive and a new wheel dog.

    Barron

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    Sir Darby Darryl Cainey's Avatar
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  5. #5
    Jammess jammess's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    The best shop that I've heard of is Hansen's Motorcycles in Medford, Oregon. I have no clue as to price.

    Is there some specific issue you have that leads you to consider having this repair made?
    How interesting that is! I don't live far from Medford and Hansen's BMW. In fact I bought a new '86 K75C from Craig. I just never thought about Hansen's for drive train repair. I know that for dealer service of any kind he's the only place I would go in Oregon or Washington for sure. I had an oil burning problem on my R100 because the rings never seated so I took the barrels down to Craig and he installed a set of rings he got from the BMW auto dealer in Medford which did the trick. Just doesn't get any better than Hansen's BMW.

    Oops, correction: Hansen's Motorcycles since is sells more than just BMW now.
    Jammess

  6. #6
    Superkraut typ181r90's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by barron_williams View Post
    I think your cost will be approx $800 for spline renewal, new seals in the rear drive and a new wheel dog.
    Barron

    Wowza, if you think you're up to the job, replacing the crown gear (+ pinion gear) and respective shims, the parts are a little less than half of that cost. I rebuilt a final drive years ago and it's really not all that bad
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  7. #7
    Monza Blue 1974 R90/6
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    Quote Originally Posted by typ181r90 View Post
    Wowza, if you think you're up to the job, replacing the crown gear (+ pinion gear) and respective shims, the parts are a little less than half of that cost. I rebuilt a final drive years ago and it's really not all that bad
    Absolutely. What could go wrong?

    Barron

  8. #8
    Superkraut typ181r90's Avatar
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    I guess that depends on how mechanically inclined you are. Rebuilding the f/d was the first big job I had to do on my BMW, I didn't think it was that bad, but then again I was rebuilding a VW Thing at the time too, so mechanical work wasn't completely foreign to me. That being said, a Clymer and using this forum (for example on determining the shimming) helped with the unknowns. Since then I've done quite a bit with the bike, clutch, rms, fork rebuild, etc. and things only get easier the deeper you dig into the bike. I'd say the RMS job has more potential for a catastrophic failure if you don't follow all the necessary steps (blocking the crank, correct torque on the d/s bolts, taking the flywheel off at TDC and marking, etc.) than a final drive rebuild.

    I'm not putting anyone down for wanting to get the splines re-machined, sometimes this is the better option, but at that cost, and with winter coming, a nice winter project that would improve one's knowledge of the bike while being that much cheaper could be nice too. For what it's worth, when I rebuilt mine I also had a used spare laying around (I think at the time the whole f/d cost less than half of what new gears cost) that I bolted in while I worked on the original so I didn't lose any riding time, this was also a little bit of insurance in case something went wrong.
    // 1975 BMW R90/6 (cafe'd) // 1957 BMW R60 (in pieces) // 1967 Aermacchi/H-D Sprint 250 SS (custom special) // 1973 VW Type 181 Custom SOLD )

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  9. #9
    jimmy armour
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    got the knowhow

    Hi guys, I have the knowhow , just wondered how much it would cost ? some shops cut off the old splines and weald on a new sleeve,others replace the whole shaft, so I can strip it down to the crown wheel, I should have explained that ,sorry,Jimmy

  10. #10
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    Hansens did mine this summer perfect. $200 for male part repair. $100 for new female dog. I did the rest. Only place to go to my mind.

  11. #11
    Monza Blue 1974 R90/6
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    Quote Originally Posted by typ181r90 View Post
    I guess that depends on how mechanically inclined you are. Rebuilding the f/d was the first big job I had to do on my BMW, I didn't think it was that bad, but then again I was rebuilding a VW Thing at the time too, so mechanical work wasn't completely foreign to me. That being said, a Clymer and using this forum (for example on determining the shimming) helped with the unknowns. Since then I've done quite a bit with the bike, clutch, rms, fork rebuild, etc. and things only get easier the deeper you dig into the bike. I'd say the RMS job has more potential for a catastrophic failure if you don't follow all the necessary steps (blocking the crank, correct torque on the d/s bolts, taking the flywheel off at TDC and marking, etc.) than a final drive rebuild.

    I'm not putting anyone down for wanting to get the splines re-machined, sometimes this is the better option, but at that cost, and with winter coming, a nice winter project that would improve one's knowledge of the bike while being that much cheaper could be nice too. For what it's worth, when I rebuilt mine I also had a used spare laying around (I think at the time the whole f/d cost less than half of what new gears cost) that I bolted in while I worked on the original so I didn't lose any riding time, this was also a little bit of insurance in case something went wrong.
    I think that is a really good comment. Makes sense. You have to weigh your experience, whether you have somebody knowledgeable to assist, if you already have the specialized tools, and other factors.

    Good to know that the parts are available new and that some shops will renew the splines and let you take care of labor.

    So, plenty of options and that is important thing.

    Regards,

    Barron

  12. #12
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    Update - a little more info on my repair. I see above people are mentioning more of a repair than I had to do. The rest of the assembly in my bike with 90,000 miles was fine. Just had to redo the male and female drive splines, and make sure to put it back together exactly as it came apart so the shims gave the proper amount of play. $300 plus shipping and some fun time learning about how they put the rear ends of BMW R100RSs together!

  13. #13
    Sir Darby Darryl Cainey's Avatar
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    This is what I had done:

    New drive splines cut by local expert
    New needle bearing from BMW $100
    New inner seal
    New gasket

    It is a 3.20 ratio 32/10

    don't have the big seal yet
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    Last edited by Darryl Cainey; 10-25-2014 at 01:48 PM.
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