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Stainless steel fasteners

basketcase

What's that noise...?
So this afternoon I'm looking at the front of the RT and notice a (fairing) fastener has departed.

Is there a set of stainless steel replacement fasteners on the market someplace, or is this something one has to just put together on his own?
 
I've replaced some of the fairing fasteners on my RS. I bought them at my local BMW shop. They didn't cost much and they fit exactly.
 
So this afternoon I'm looking at the front of the RT and notice a (fairing) fastener has departed.

Is there a set of stainless steel replacement fasteners on the market someplace, or is this something one has to just put together on his own?

A Google search of "r1100rt stainless screws kit" yields dozens of possibilities including this one from several BMW dealers made by Hornig.
http://www.sierrabmwonline.com/product_info.php/hornig-r1150rtr1100rt-stainless-screw-kit-bmw-r1150rtr1100rt-70010-70020-p-1653
 
Well reading up on the topic it seems stainless is not always the best choice as disparate metals don't always play nice together.

hw, thanks for the link, and to all for the feedback.
 
Some if not all of the aftermarket screws I have found don't have the little tapered point on the end which is crucial in fitting the screw back into the fastener clip. We all know that the tupperware on these bikes only truly fits perfectly one time, and that was at the factory. It takes a little nudge here and there to get them to fit, and the tapered end on factory screws helps prevent the dreaded cross threading.
 
We all know that the tupperware on these bikes only truly fits perfectly one time, and that was at the factory.

Isnt that the truth! All the tupperware fasteners on my 03 RT are stainless that have been either painted or coated black by BMW.
 
Well reading up on the topic it seems stainless is not always the best choice as disparate metals don't always play nice together.

hw, thanks for the link, and to all for the feedback.

A light coat of Never Seize will minimize this problem. Particularly when threading SS into Aluminum.
Outboard engines operated in salt water are extreme example.
 
The black screw heads can be buffed to the silver pretty easily. Don't have to buy new and they have the pointy nose.
 
Replace them all with the newer T25 style from BMW. Wider heads so you don't dimple the plastic as much, pointed ends and good threads.

The aftermarket ones are IMO junk. Typically they have tiny heads, square ends, and cut (not rolled) threads.

Look for the part numbers on the R1150RT and R1200RT fiche or in the hardware list on my website. You want all 16mm bolts except 20mm under the mirrors.
 
In general, I will not use ss fasteners on any of my bikes for mounting structural and functional essential components. Stainless steel has a different yield that will cause the fastener to settle and come loose easier than conventional steel. Using ss to attach cosmetic or plastic items may be O.K.
 
In general, I will not use ss fasteners on any of my bikes for mounting structural and functional essential components. Stainless steel has a different yield that will cause the fastener to settle and come loose easier than conventional steel. Using ss to attach cosmetic or plastic items may be O.K.

Agreed, good point.
 
Rt


I just wanted to say a couple things. My RT has about 40 of these fillister head screws holding the plastic on.
These are a major PIA just by virtue of being numerous.

Especially when you are pretty sure you have it fixed but you don't really have it fixed.

I developed a list of "don't likes" about these screws.
- The Allen socket is only 3mm when they're born.
- They're painted when they're born.
- Rust slowly makes that socket somewhere between 3 and 4mm.
- There are at least 3 different lengths. Do not put a long one into the fuel tank.
- The aluminum capture nuts molded into the tank develop a "favorite" screw over time.
If you try to put a different one in there it will cross and bind.

So I bought the Hornig SS kit. Observations.
- It came with the correct number of screws and an excess of nylon washers.
- Not sure they are the same lengths as original, had to trim a few of them.
- SS is much softer than the original steel and the 3mm socket strips easily
this shouldn't be a problem on the tupperware application.
It would be extra nice though if the kit came with a couple extra screws.
- The SS screws don't have a taper on the nose. I dremmel'd a taper into some of the more reluctant ones.
- On the tank, some screws went right in, some refused.

I dremmel'd a "tooth" into one of the old steel screws and used it as a thread chaser on the aluminum capture nuts.
I also loosened the gas cap ring Torx screws enough for the center panel to move a little.

Summation: They look pretty good, though I liked the original black-on-black better. They don't rust.


 
Thanks again to all for the various feedback.

After reading all this I'm satisfied that ss is not worth the effort, and I don't need a complete replacement set. However, I would like to obtain a quantity of OEM quality fasteners to keep in the tool chest.

When I rode the CDT (dual sport trip) in 2010 I picked up a box of replacement fasteners at the KTM dealer in Silver City, NM that had an assortment of pieces that came in very handy in the 1,700 miles I was on dirt roads and fire trails between there and Yellowstone.

Does anyone have a SKU number for such a box that would work for an R1100RT?
 
The new-style BMW SS screws that I like are available in black also. Again, they are the best option: wide face, no washers needed, pointed, good threads, etc. Scott Lambert pretty much hit all of the points on what's wrong with the aftermarket ones.

I can certainly put together a kit for anyone who doesn't want to track down the parts. But it would be far simpler if you just ordered your own from your local dealer.

06 32 7 651 211 - 12mm silver
06 32 7 651 212 - 16mm silver
06 32 7 657 966 - 20mm silver

46 63 2 325 997 - 12mm black
46 63 2 325 998 - 16mm black
46 63 2 325 999 - 20mm black

For the R1100RT you want all 16mm with 20mm under the mirrors. Forget the longer ones on the foot peg plates; not needed in my experience but get them if you want. So that's I think 28 16s and two 20s? They're a whopping $1.43 each. If you want even longer ones under the mirrors just to tell them apart, you can get 25mm silver ones as part 63 13 7 655 661. Don't know about black, but they're not seen so silver will be fine.

If you have a K12, you will want some of the 12mm ones.

Using ss to attach cosmetic or plastic items may be O.K.

That ship sailed long ago; BMW has been using SS since the turn of the century for fairings (which is what this thread is about). "May be OK"? I'm just not seeing the catastrophic fairing screw failures that would indicate otherwise! At least not with the high-quality BMW-supplied screws.
 
That ship sailed long ago; BMW has been using SS since the turn of the century for fairings (which is what this thread is about). .

Yes, the plastic is what this thread was all about. However, like with all threads, there is a tendency to divert into general or related areas. And if you talk about ss fasteners on motor vehicles, I think you need to point as many of the pros and cons as one can.
 
Anton stated that the 'new' BMW screws don't have a washer. I haven't seen those yet, but I like the little plastic washer on the fairing screws. It keeps the screw head from scratching the paint as the head rotates whilst you secure the fastener. (how many bonus points for using the word 'whilst' in a post?)

p.s. My dealer, Bentonville BMW, keeps a large supply of these fasteners in stock..all sizes. and yes, a buck fiddy each! I try to buy a few different sizes when I go there, so I will have 'em if I lose them or buggar one up. Three or four at a time doesn't hurt nearly as bad as 25 at a time!
 
I find used fasteners for complete BMW bikes on e-bay now & then. The last set were all of the fasteners for two complete K1200LT bikes cost $60 with shipping. The package weighed around 20 lbs.
 
... I like the little plastic washer on the fairing screws. It keeps the screw head from scratching the paint as the head...

Believe me, the old style screws with the washers do FAR more damage, because the smaller area dimples the plastic. And the aftermarket ones are even smaller. The new-style bolts have the greatest surface area with no washer. They work, just as they are. I wouldn't post three or four times about it if I weren't sure.
 
One thing not mentioned so far (I think..) is the fasteners Anton is recommending are also Torx head and not Allen (hex) heads. I'm still warming up to Torx fasteners but it is true that they hang on to the tool better than Allen heads do and are also way less prone to "spreading" and the heads becoming sloppy. This is a big advantage for fairing screws. I don't know about you guys but I seem to be pulling mine off a LOT. :D

I think I'll switch over to the new style once I run out of my spare Allen head fasteners and washers. Which won't be long now...
 
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