Failing Clutch Switch-2010 R1200RT

I have a 2010 R1200RT with 23,000 miles. My clutch switch has failed intermittently for a while now, and is now in hard failure (the starter will not engage with engine in gear and clutch applied). I took it to the dealer while still in warranty for this problem and they cleaned it without replacement and it worked.

Any suggestions? Has anyone done a switch bypass? How?

Thanks,

John

In addition to a clutch switch problem, you also have a Hexhead/Camhead model bike, not an Oilhead.


mods- clean up on Aisle O!

If I were away from home; and if my transmission gear switch were faulty and I had neglected to replace it; and if the clutch switch failed too; then and only then I could bypass the clutch switch by cutting the wires to the switch and conecting them together. I might do this to get the bike home. But those are the only circumstances under which I would do this because one brain fart and the bike starts, launches itself while in gear, landing who knows where with you either on, off, beside or under the bike.

PGlaves said:

.... one brain fart and the bike starts, launches itself while in gear, landing who knows where with you either on, off, beside or under the bike.

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Having experienced the consequences of said brain fart which almost put me off the end of a ferry on a bike which didn't have a clutch interlock switch, I concur entirely.

I don't understand "to get the bike home". Can you not start it in neutral with a defective clutch lockout switch?

beemerphile said:

I don't understand "to get the bike home". Can you not start it in neutral with a defective clutch lockout switch?

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That was the part about the faulty transmission gear switch neglected to be replaced.

My point was that if it is the only way to make the starter turn then bypassing the clutch switch can physically be done but I would never do it just for convenience.

Hacking up the wiring harness on a $20,000 bike never has appealed to me. The switch is a simple microswitch (I took mine out and cleaned and adjusted it when it started acting up) - connected with a two pin connector that a paper-clip would easily jumper without destroying the harness.

There is a Torx grub screw on the bottom of the clutch lever assembly - if you loosen it the switch can be pulled out. A caution - there is a metal disk with a pin in it that holds it to the clutch switch. The disk is what the grub screw tightens up against (the other side of the switch presses against the housing - holding it in place.) That disk is on the bottom of the switch and WILL fall out as you remove the switch. Once you find it - a dab of Duco cement will hold it into the switch, and keep it in place as you reinstall and adjust the switch, and it won't fall out again if you ever have to R&R/adjust the switch.

BTDT - a no cost fix.