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I want a new bike. Cam head or Hex head.

16064-1979

New member
I am recently retired and am looking to replace my 1985 K100RT with a newer model.
I bought the K bike new and have 153000 trouble free miles on it. (3 speedos, 1 clutch and oil seal repair, lots of tires, brake pads and rotors.) After the warranty period except for the clutch I did all the regular maintenance myself. It is the most reliable trouble free bike I have ever owned. This is why I have owned it for almost 29 years. But its time for something newer since I have more time on my hands for long trips.
Being on a fixed income now I dont want big payments so am looking for a low milage R1200RT 2005-2011. Can someone steer me in the right direction as to what to look for in a used machine. Im not interested in getting stranded with final drive problems etc. I do know stuff can happen to any machine of any age. Ive just been out of the loop as far as late model BMWs go. Thanks for any help.


Just thought Id update my search. I just made a deal with a dealer in my area,
well close enough to my area,for a new 2013. Just too good to pass up.
May be my last new BMW. This one cost 3x what my K bike cost me in 1985.
If I get 28 years and 153K miles from this rig I will go to the afterlife a happy camper.
Thanks for all your advice. It was great.
 
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Being on a fixed income now I dont want big payments so am looking for a low milage R100RT 2005-2011. Can someone steer me in the right direction as to what to look for in a used machine. Im not interested in getting stranded with final drive problems etc. I do know stuff can happen to any machine of any age. Ive just been out of the loop as far as late model BMWs go. Thanks for any help.

I assume you meant an R1200RT of 2005-2011 vintage. My advice would be to get the newest bike with the fewest miles that you can afford. The hexhead/camhead differences aren't really all that much when it comes to riding your bike down the road. On the maintenance side of things one will be slightly easier to adjust valves, the other won't need valve adjustments quite as often. The are about equivalent in effort to check the valves.

As for your "final drive problems etc" comment: there isn't any difference. Either can break. Some claim they rarely do, others feel that if you ride long enough it will happen to you. I have my opinion, but no facts so I'll keep my opinion to myself :laugh

The biggest difference may be between model years '06 and '07. Thats when the brakes changed from power assist to the current braking system. Some love the power assist system, others hate it, and many don't care one way or the other. You won't really know which camp you are in until you ride a bike that has it. What this means is that should you wind up looking at an '05 or '06 be 100% sure to test ride it before making any final decision.

Good luck in your search.
 
I may be a little biased. An RT 2010 or newer will, imho make valve checking easier. Most important to me is no whizzy brakes (power assisted). Had a K bike with them and wished it didn't. And they replaced the failure prone fuel strip with a float. I have a 2011 RT and wouldn't trade it for anything. On the down side, crappy mirrors, installed a set on the handlebars. As a sidebar, installed a set of Mich PR3's at the RA rally this past summer. What a transformation. A new set of tires always feel wonderful ,but these keep that feeling long after the the little nubs wear off. My vote ,a 2010 or newer.
 
2010 and earlier models have the dreaded fuel strip. 2011s went back to the good old float system.
 
2010 rt

PM me and I'll discuss in detail a 2010 RT that I'm getting ready to sell.



I am recently retired and am looking to replace my 1985 K100RT with a newer model.
I bought the K bike new and have 153000 trouble free miles on it. (3 speedos, 1 clutch and oil seal repair, lots of tires, brake pads and rotors.) After the warranty period except for the clutch I did all the regular maintenance myself. It is the most reliable trouble free bike I have ever owned. This is why I have owned it for almost 29 years. But its time for something newer since I have more time on my hands for long trips.
Being on a fixed income now I dont want big payments so am looking for a low milage R1200RT 2005-2011. Can someone steer me in the right direction as to what to look for in a used machine. Im not interested in getting stranded with final drive problems etc. I do know stuff can happen to any machine of any age. Ive just been out of the loop as far as late model BMWs go. Thanks for any help.
 
RT mirrors

Hi,

Nice decision you have to make, a RT or a RT ;-)

I have had the -05, -06 and now the -11.
What a bike!

Mirrors

For me the RT mirrors are the best together with the mirrors on my Honda CX 650 Turbo I used to have.
That is compared to around 30 different touring and sporttouring bikes I have driven.
When I first got my -05 RT the mirrors seemed strange but after trying out different angles I got i right.
Naturally, the view will be somewhat obstructed if you use the large BMW top case and/or if you carry a passenger.
But still you will be able to see what?s going on behind you since there will be no dead spots if angled right.

Instrument
The bike, model 10-13, has had a big problem with the instrument cluster, especially the left.
This fall BMW finally has produced a new version that hopefully will last.
To my knowledge BMW in US will change the clusters to the new version at no cost (they did it for me here in Sweden after the warranty had expired)
If you aim for a model 10-13 make sure you get the new clusters.

Otherwise I would say the RT is THE best bike there is if you want the capacity to go loooong distance in comfort, having fun in the twisties or even on a track and still be nimble enough to go around town.

The only thing I lack is some midrange power at higher gears when passing with full load.
But then I could just gear down... but I am to lazy.

Good luck with your decision and as mentioned before, go for as new as bike as possible.
Personally, I rather go for a newer bike with lots of miles instead of older with few miles.
The former usually are serviced by the book and older ones are likely not to be served if not driven for a long period.
One thing that might become expensive is if the ABS-system and fluid has not been serviced by the book = $$$$$$


// Taurus
Stockholm, Sweden
 
In USA we would call the speedo/tach unit the instrument cluster.

I expect you're referring to the control switches on the handlebars.
 
Another thought for the original poster.

You are leaving the smooth K bike, going to a big twin...the twin to some who come from other 4 cylinder machines is a bit of a surprise. Not a bad thing, however, make sure you like the vibe so to speak.
 
Another thought for the original poster.

You are leaving the smooth K bike, going to a big twin...the twin to some who come from other 4 cylinder machines is a bit of a surprise. Not a bad thing, however, make sure you like the vibe so to speak.

I personally wouldn't put an '85 K bike in the "smooth" category. Most of those can "buzz" pretty good.
 
Correction

In USA we would call the speedo/tach unit the instrument cluster.

I expect you're referring to the control switches on the handlebars.


Right so. Control switches it is.
I used the description "Instrument clusters" as it has been used in other forums regarding control switches (?)

// Taurus
 
RT Vs. RT.

It seems like BMW traded one headache for another...
On my '09 RT the fuel strip failed and now on '13RT the L/S multifunction switch took a poop. Thankfully BMW fixed both problems under warranty - thank you, but to be honest I still prefer the "old style" type turn signal switch - way more intuitive.
And like some other people above, I also like RT's mirrors - rock solid and perfect view, quite frankly I never understood how anybody could complain about that.
 
NOT smoother than an R1200RT.

Problems with the current bikes pale in comparison to what first owners of K100s experienced.
 
I had an early K100 for 22 years. BMW replaced a few things, but I can't say that the bike was problematic. The worst features were the fail-o-magic speedo and the buzz from the motor.
 
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I have an oil head. I test drove a Hex head. It was much smoother but didn't have any more power than my oilhead with a fuel tuner on it. The hexhead was much smoother than the oilhead, so much that I hit the rev limiter a couple times on the test drive. The camhead is smoother yet and has MORE power in the usable range.

Everybody seems to worry about adjusting the valves. I did it once in 25000 miles on the camhead and it will not need it again for a long time.

I broke in the camhead by the book. It took 20,000 miles to stop using a little oil. If it took that long to wear in, its going to take forever to wear out. I have had zero problems except a fuel strip (2012 R1200R). I think the camhead is the best they built so far.

Overhead cam, less parts, less to flex, wear, less to change adjustment with temp changes. Simpler, more direct.

It is probably more $ and what you can find than which motor.

Enjoy your hunt, motorcycle shopping is a blast.
David
 
I'd say once you get rid of the whizzie brakes the rest of the issues come down to tradeoffs and personal tastes. Right choice for op depends on budget, mileage of the possibles examined, plus other specific of maintenance and condition.

I've got a K-GT with whizzies and while they have enough power, they have crappy feel compared to non-whizzie bikes and they have more failure points, some of which are expensive like the modulator unless it is rebuildable. Mine has a wonky whizzie switch on the lever that sticks on sometimes so the motor runs even after the brake is released- that kills a battery quickly and can leave you stranded with a dead bike. Only a $50 part but the issue is the system shouldn't be there in the first place- it does nothing useful, wastes $, creates problems and is not as good as the unassisted system (which itself is less than optimal due to rather poor design for the linked system that affects whizzie and non-whizzie models with linked brakes)
The whizzie brake is just one more of those stupid German ideas that make customers beta testers for their folly.
Of current models for touring use, the best brakes are on the F800GT.
 
GSA1200,Class of '07:)

The BIG twins torque is unmatched and my current GSA1200'07 is as perfect a BMW I ever owned in 42 years. Had a few others too, but this one excels most of my recent decades BMWs. 112000m now and a keeper for sure. '07 and on got the regular brakes back, NO stupid assist system. I LIKE my valve tappets adjust, way better than shims,less work:). Never needed any adjust so far in 112000m. I had K bikes too and the BIG twin torque is to my liking, love it.
 
Camhead or Hexhead?

Yes.

;)

I have a 2006 with the "whizzzy" brakes and love it. I just don't get why some people think they're a problem; to each their own, I guess. Sure makes them easy to bleed.

For me, it was more about price. I got a very low mileage, well-kept bike for a great price. Maybe in a few years, I'll move up to a camhead - or not. This bike is really that good.

Cheers!

John
 
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