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Battery . . . connect battery charger to bike or not 2005 R1200ST

mschack

mschack

New member
Ok, so I have just purchased a new CTEK Multi US 3300 charger and it came with pigtails to allow me to connect the charger to the battery while still in the bike. I have never had this option before and basically always removed the battery to charge it or store it in colder weather. So I am asking for people who know more about this than I, can I charge my battery while it is still in the bike and connected to the wiring harness. I am worried about it damaging the various electronic systems on the bike if I charge/condition it while it is connected to the bike. I have seen multiple threads here about people doing this and also that according to the owner's manual, this is a No-NO. Any insight would be appreciated.
 
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battery charger

I have had all my bikes on chargers for the last fifteen years,very had a problem,battery last twice as long,when I pull in to the garage.I get off the bike and plug it to the charger,
 
I have permanent connections to the battery on all my BMWs, where I can hook up a charger/tender. It is a pita to take the battery out of the K1, for example. I have charged and maintained the batteries in my BMWs like this for years without ill effect. Maybe it depends on the charger you are using. The K1600 has its own charger that connects trhough the accessory plug.
 
Been doing it just fine on many bikes, including CANBUS bikes just fine for years. It will not harm anything because the battery acts as a big capacitor to filter out any spikes that may occur.

Wayne
 
Ok . . . thank you for the input. I am going to hook up the pig tails and install a Fuse Block at the same time to clean up the wiring. Thanks :thumb
 
For a 2005 bike, I would wire a direct connection. The charger for my 2005 GS came with convoluted instructions for charging the bike through the accessory socket. Basically you had to plug in the charger and turn the ignition key on and off in the correct sequence. I found out the hard way that if the house lost power, you needed to redo the process to get the bike charging again. At the time I lived in an area where we lost power frequently during the winter and I found my battery dead in the spring. My 2011 R1200R does not have this problem.
 
A direct-to-the-battery pigtail allows easy charging but also a handy place to plug in heated vests, etc without worrying a CANbus system. (I always think CANBUS sounds like a Canadian transit system :wow

pete
 
mschack:

I've had a pigtail with an SAE connectoer hooked up to the battery in my ST for a couple of years. The maintainer works fine through it. I carry a connector in my tire repair kit that allows me to pull power right off the battery for an air pump.
 
mschack said:
Ok . . . thank you for the input. I am going to hook up the pig tails and install a Fuse Block at the same time to clean up the wiring. Thanks :thumb
Click to expand...

I run my charger through the Fuzeblock on the adapter that I plug into. It is not switched.

FuzeblockInstall91.jpg


Same plug I use for my heated gear.

Jim :brow
 
Ok . . . thank you to all. And thanks for updating the thread title, I will try better next time :)

I am just waiting for an additional cable from CTEK and will then post a picture of my "home made", low profile, fuse block and its connections on the bike. I don't need much power and wanted a small foot print fuse block so I made my own. Just waiting for USPS to deliver the additional cable.

In a sense what I am putting together is the CTEK pig tails from the battery to a CTEK extension cable that runs to the fuse block and circuits. This way I can disconnect the circuits and plug in my CTEK charger, and when done charging, disconnect the charger and reconnect the fuse block.

More pictures as soon as it is installed. Maybe even a few step by step pictures and parts list if there is any interest. :D
 
If your homemade fuse panel uses a relay as most aftermarket ones do (for switched power outlets), be aware that unprotected relays (without a diode or similar across the coil) can cause some pretty high voltage spikes when switched. These spikes can cause damage to unprotected electrical components, incredible noises on operating sound systems if not blocked, etc..
Many put a diode in the trigger to the panel if an unprotected relay is used to protect against this issue. (A 1A, 1500PIV diode is fine on the trigger, cheap at the Shack)
Not that I know of any problems specifically with BMW bikes- but what I do know is the BMW publishes no data on the internal circuitry of the bike computers so we don't know what sort of protection against such inputs might be built in (or not).

The commercial Fuzeblock, for example, has dual diodes on the board.
 
racer7 said:
If your homemade fuse panel uses a relay as most aftermarket ones do (for switched power outlets), be aware that unprotected relays (without a diode or similar across the coil) can cause some pretty high voltage spikes when switched. These spikes can cause damage to unprotected electrical components, incredible noises on operating sound systems if not blocked, etc..
Many put a diode in the trigger to the panel if an unprotected relay is used to protect against this issue. (A 1A, 1500PIV diode is fine on the trigger, cheap at the Shack)
Not that I know of any problems specifically with BMW bikes- but what I do know is the BMW publishes no data on the internal circuitry of the bike computers so we don't know what sort of protection against such inputs might be built in (or not).

The commercial Fuzeblock, for example, has dual diodes on the board.
Click to expand...

Racer7 Yes I am aware of that, found that out the hard way a number of years ago :blush All of the relays that I use now have the built-in diode and my power requirements are not that great. But thank you for bringing that up. Good to know for those who haven't wrecked some circuitry yet :)
 
Well, I am done with the installation. Found a perfect spot for a Fuzeblock under the back seat. Used the Ctek US 3300 battery taps, and extension cable so it feeds the Fuzeblock. That way I can disconnect the battery taps and hook up my charger.

If anyone wants to see pictures, let me know and I will post them. Also added LED tail indicator lights, BoosterPlug, that I had on my other bike. Yes, it is meant for this model also. Anyone have question, just let me know.
 
On my 2005 GS

After bringing up this subject with my 05 GS, being hooked up through the outlet. The special BMW canbus charger was only blinking on the red light. After reading input from you guys, I went ahead and run a pigtail and run direct to the battery. After being hooked up , it showed 2/3 charged and after 1/2 hour, it went to green (fully charged), and has stayed the same since, which is a nice feeling. Now 1 last question. With my BMW charger showing that 1/3 charge (blinking red), having been used all these years....how could my original battery have lasted 8 years? It had been hooked up to the outlet all along (year round). Sure is a good feelin to see that solid green. I like reading a lot of stuff on your various forums.....always learning something. Another reason why I like being a member.
Rob.
 
Ok, as requested, here are some shots of the Fuzeblock and its location on my 2005 R1200ST. The Fuzeblock fits right under the spot, under the back seat, where the tool pouch is located. There is enough room, if you replace the pouch with a more pliable one. That way it is not crushed and out of the way of the elements. Only used two nuts and bolts to secure the Fuzeblock to the fender. I used the original battery connection cable from the Ctek to connect to the battery terminals.

In the first picture you see it connected to the charger, and in the second shot, under normal riding conditions. And the third shot is a general overview of location and connected for riding.

With the Ctek US 3300 connected
20140213_101021[1].jpg

Connected and ready for the road
20140213_101051[1].jpg

General Overview
20140212_102603[1].jpg
 
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I got it now, instead of a standard two pin connector to the fuse block, you used the CTEK cable with connector. The connector I have for my CTEK has LEDs on it that flash all the time telling you the status of the battery. Guess it would not hurt to use that type either. Thanks for the photos.

Wayne
 
toooldtocare said:
I got it now, instead of a standard two pin connector to the fuse block, you used the CTEK cable with connector. The connector I have for my CTEK has LEDs on it that flash all the time telling you the status of the battery. Guess it would not hurt to use that type either. Thanks for the photos.

Wayne
Click to expand...

I ordered an extension cable from Ctek to give me the connection to the Fuzeblock. Just cut off the end that would fit and attached it to the Fuzeblock. :thumb
 
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