2013 R 1200 RT - Cold natured?

This morning was about 40 degrees and the bike started real rough. It is garage kept so garage was somewhat warmer. Took maybe 15 seconds are so to calm down...then I let it idle for maybe a minute then all was well.

What kind of warm-up time before taking off?

No longer than it takes to make sure the side stand is put away.

Bikes used to have chokes.
Modern cars computers set the engine to run rich on start up.
These bikes do nothing.
I was up in Jackson WY two months ago in some good rain, real dark, 8 a.m. 40 degrees or so.
I started and stalled 5 times. Then my memory returned.
Crank a little throttle, then start. Use two hands. Whoosh, starts right up.
Then, give it a minute or two and ride. As little warm up as possible. As the best way to warm it up is rolling, just not harsh rolling.
dc

Actually these bikes do all kinds of things the rider never knows about. Including running rich when cold. My R1200R does need about 60 seconds when below 50F before riding. Other Hexheads don't. Just variations in the throttle body set-up. If it takes more than 60 seconds, it needs to be looked at.

I know it don't run rich enough to start. I know that. And that's the point. I'm not the only one who has to use throttle to start it. Why would it run rich when cold but not enough to start. That makes no sense.
Now, it may be some defect my bike has. But it sure don't run rich when cold. Or it would start.
dc

When "throttle" is used, you are not adding fuel: you're opening the plate in the throttle body to flow more AIR. Then the computer decides on the new mix (and ignition) settings, based on that plus other sensor inputs.
Trains is on the right track; other sensors may be a bit askew (GS911 time?).

It was 4 or 5 degrees warmer this morning and I had no problem. Guess there will be a little variation. Thanks for the replies.

The very first thing I would do is install new spark plugs. Spark plugs that are OK most of the time will cause misfire and stalling in less optimal conditions. You want the center (ground) electrode to have as square a tip as possible because the spark is sharper when it is. You also want to make sure the gap is within specifications. When a range is provided I adjust to near the minimum so when the spark plug wears and the gap opens, it remains within specification longer.

Mine (09 r1200gsa) was a bit finicky the first time I had it in really cold weather, but I did the TPS reset trick and basically the problem went away. I've heard from others that opening the throttle a bit helps too, but I haven't needed that.

Reset is when you turn on the key, but don't start it. Then open and close the throttle 3 times, not real fast, but open all the way and closed. Then key off, key back on and start normally. All this does it tell the computer where full open and closed is for the throttle, but it seems to make a big difference in the starting. I've seen the same work on other hard starting BMW's. Cheap and easy to try and hurts nothing.

David13 said:

I know it don't run rich enough to start. I know that. And that's the point. I'm not the only one who has to use throttle to start it. Why would it run rich when cold but not enough to start. That makes no sense.
Now, it may be some defect my bike has. But it sure don't run rich when cold. Or it would start.
dc

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You're confused--using throttle leans it. In any event, the computer should provide the extra throttle that on Oilheads the rider did with the fast idle control. And BTW, no BMW motorcycle has ever had a choke--despite what the control said.

Opening the throttle a bit to start in cold weather is proper practice and of course adds air to which the computer responds with a fuel choice. Failing to open the throttle will make cold weather starts tougher.

If you log any of the bikes with the BMS-K computer (by using a GS-911 to log a csv file that can be exported to any spreadsheet for graphing- lambda for the sensors is collected as one of the many types of info that can be logged) you will see that very shortly after start the computer responds by providing a rich mixture - typically AFRs from high 12s to mid/high 13s- which leans out to 14.7 or a bit more as the engine warms up in the first minute. Generally the enrichment will end in under a minute in typical cold weather starts though I guess it would last longer if you fired the bike at -20..can't say I want to do it to find out.

There is no need for a choke or idle speed adjustment on bikes with the BMS-K, it does the equivalent of both by enriching and controlling idle speed. BUT it wants to see the throttle open a bit for best cold weather starts.

Note Paul's point about plugs- those of us who have lived in cold climates know the value of prepping for winter with a battery check and making sure motors have good plugs as part of the drill. R motors will run fine on plugs way past the spec wear limit but its hard on starting and on the rather pricey stick coils. The factory service interval equates to the amount of miles a plug put in a min gap will last before the gap opens to the wear limit, when it should be replaced.

RT Warm Up

xlarry said:

This morning was about 40 degrees and the bike started real rough. It is garage kept so garage was somewhat warmer. Took maybe 15 seconds are so to calm down...then I let it idle for maybe a minute then all was well.

What kind of warm-up time before taking off?

Click to expand...

'My 2012 manual says start it up and ride away'

My 2012 RT does the same thing, at first it surprised me as my 2 Suzuki's ('10 DL1000 & '08 C90) just start up immediately and run smooth the second they start, regardless of temperature or how long they have been sitting. (within reason)

I think a bike like the R1200 with a 12:1 compression ratio deserves to be a little fussier as it is putting out a lot of HP per cc. (sort of)

I did change the sparkplugs at 7000 miles because I had the fairing off and thought I'd do it for the heck of it and I was amazed that it made a difference for the better. I know sparkplugs go longer, but it started better & ran a little smoother.

Maybe breaking in the bike is hard the sparkplugs at first then backs off a bit as everything starts to get along in the motor, as it develops its "character"??

I had two 5-Series BMW cars and they never started that smooth either, compared to my wife's Honda or any other modern car, so maybe it is the "Character of the Beast" or bad engineering??

Whatever it is, I really like the ride of the R1200 RT, so I am going to put up with it's "character".

I sold the BMW cars though, needed those to be reliable for my job and running kids around.

snooser said:

'My 2012 manual says start it up and ride away'

Whatever it is, I really like the ride of the R1200 RT, so I am going to put up with it's "character".

Click to expand...

I love my RT more with each day! It's an amazing motorcycle! I always loved my Harleys ride but this bike is just so much better.

I had my independent mechanic do his thing with his computer including resetting several adaptive values and now my bike (RT) idles better than it has in a long time. In addition it got a new set of spark plugs.

The advise given above on cracking the throttle just a bit to start in cold weather holds true with me. Would not start in 36F unless I opened the trottle just a tiny bit.

tsp
My Blog: http://www.airheadmoto.com

I've had my bike in the upper 30's to lower 40's on several occasions. Never had a starting or idling problem so far. The most I've felt is a bit of hesitation the first ride off but that's goes away within the first quarter mile or so. Beyond that, I've got no qualms with how the bike performs.

Ride Safe,
Steve R.

It is very easy to do a simple experiment to see if it is lean on start up. Add some extra fuel, do not use ether, it knocks. I use either propane or carb cleaner. With the carb cleaner you can stick the hose in the snorkel and spray. If the stumble goes away, you were lean, if it gets worse, you were already rich.

You also can pull off the tubes to the evaporate emissions, this will admit a little air, if you are rich this will lean it a bit. This will tell you which way you are off.

I suspect if you are lean, it is because of some defect like an air leak, low fuel pressure, slight injector imbalance, air in fuel line.

If you are rich check for a dripping injector.

Rod

If the 1200 fuel injection & throttle bodies are anything like the 1150, and I strongly suspect they are, pulling the hoses to the canister does NOT "lean" the mix.
It simply admits more air, just like opening the throttle plate a little bit.
Mixture is controlled by the computer: how long the injectors are open.
If you pull one or both hoses, the idle speed increases because the computer thinks the plate is flowing more air, so it adds more fuel.

The OP was having problems while cranking, and when it is cold before the O2 sensor becomes active this usually does it. I do not know how the computer would tell when the engine is cranking. If not then I would try the oxygen from my cutting torch.

Rod

Any time the engine is turning over, regardless of whether it's fired up or not (given that the ignition key is "On"), the computer receives the trigger pulses from the ignition system.

Roger's fueling graphs clearly show that the bikes are lean, so yes, manually asking the computer for more fuel (via "throttle") can ease cold starts.

ragtoplvr said:

The OP was having problems while cranking, ....

Rod

Click to expand...

I guess I didn't phrase that quite right. I should have written: After the bike started, it ran rough for a short period. It has only done that once since. I do occasionally have a little hesitation for the first quarter mile if I don't let it warm up a little.