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Does tire pressure make that much of a difference?

tire pressures on older Airheads

My comments here are for ROAD tires (NOT off-road types or usage).

Modern design tires require higher pressures than stated on the label under the seat on old Airheads, or in the Owners Booklet. Use the classic old pressures only with original type tires. The only "classic" tires you are likely to ever purchase are the Continental RB2 and K112. They give the Classic Ride; and handle well-enough, if you use the book values for TWO-UP and/or HIGH SPEEDS. Those pressures are way too low for modern tires. On all other tires I have ridden on, and there are a LOT of them, using such low values as higher twenties to lowest thirties will cause mushy unstable handling, with a feeling of the tire rolling sideways off the rim...

Do NOT use the pressures printed on the tire as your standard pressure. Those are MAXIMUM designed pressures for the tire carcass.
Modern tires may....or may not!....give the old rule-of-thumb of 6% pressure increase from riding awhile. The belted tires and stiffer sidewall types generally do not work so good in that regard...and measuring is critical anyway. The effect is more magnified with very hot asphalt in very hot Summer conditions, up to 10%, but NOT all makes/models of tires!

As a fairly accurate general rule, if you ride solo, and weigh under 180 (or thereabouts), try 32 front and 36 rear as the absolute minimums, whether on a naked lighter BMW, or a heavier RT. The very BEST handling might be with 35 or 36 Front, and 40 Rear; but that is only for those that push rather hard into the twisties. I have found that 33F/38R is a very good compromise, most will like those pressures. Pressures are always measured with the tire cool....not right after riding...and NOT after heating up a lot from sunlight.

If two-up, and/or you weigh considerably more, or you are doing higher-speed traveling, I suggest about 35 or even 36 front, and around 40 rear, or even a couple more pounds in the rear.

All my comments on pressure values work well whether you are using metric sizes of, say, 90/90 or 100/90 front and 110 or 120 rear; or, inch sizes of, say, 3.25 or 3.50 front and 4.0 rear.

NOTE that some tire manufacturer will give honest recommended pressures for their tires, and others will offer-up only what BMW might have specified, long ago. Some don't even offer any guidelines, except the maximum printed on the sidewalls. I can only speculate as to the reasons.
There is an article at this URL, that discusses tires by brand and model, pressures, and lots more for your reading pleasure:
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/section5.htm


BMW used to do extensive factory tire testing and made recommendations on tires, as well as pressures. I do not remember any tires for the early Airheads being tested and published by BMW since maybe the early or mid eighties.
Certainly BMW has not published anything at all on tires/pressures since the mid-nineties, then only for the last Airheads, and were no changes. You MIGHT want to glance at the R100R type pressures, however.
In MY opinion, all the Owners Booklets have the WRONG (too low) pressures for ALL models of BMW Airheads, up through 1985. EXCEPT if you have the Classic Tires. From 1986, the pressures were more accurate for real-world modern tires. Some brands and models of tires have been in production for a very long time. Almost none of the original Classic Ride type tires are now available, at least in the USA.
snowbum
MOA 17058
 
Thank you Snowbum for that reply to the thread. That helps me quite a bit. I ride about a half mile to a gas station to fill my tires.I even wait about 15 minutes for the tires to cool down just from that short ride.One question I have for you is.Do you consider new Metzler Lazertecs modern or classic tires?
Thanks,again.
George
 
Do you consider new Metzler Lazertecs modern or classic tires?

I'm not Snowbum, but if you go read his link, you'll see that he mentions the older Metzler tires, eg ME11, as more of the classic tire. Lazertecs IIRC are a more recent tire, thus probably not "classic" in this definition. That's the way I read it.
 
Last edited:
Not Snowbum, QUOTE]

So is this contributor "THE SNOWBUM" that we all love and cherish?..........If not.....What is to keep others from doing this and THEIR word taken as the gospel when it can actually be detrimental..............?????????............Thanks........God bless........Dennis
 
Not Snowbum, QUOTE]

So is this contributor "THE SNOWBUM" that we all love and cherish?..........If not.....What is to keep others from doing this and THEIR word taken as the gospel when it can actually be detrimental..............?????????............Thanks........God bless........Dennis

Dennis, I identified myself as NOT Snowbum but offered my take on the poster's question, even referred him to Snowbum's link and website. I'll go back and update my post to be quite clear...how's that??
 
Kurt.......ONCE AGAIN........thanks for what you and the other MODS do on here. That said, you know me and how I truly detest folks that run their mouth on here just to get thread count credibility; but NOW..............Some guy who plagarizes one of the true folks that one can go to in order to get a real and valid opinion as to what is going on with the mechanics of the "Airhead" design motorcyles. Seems that this fraud should be brought out and villified rather than just let it ride...........God bless.........Dennis
 
dennis- If you clik snowbum1's homepage, it's a direct link to Snowbum's articles. so what make you think S1 is not the real deal?

also, all comments in this thread by S1 are consistent with comments contained in Snowbum's homepage.

maybe before one calls for the vilification of a member and his/her postings, a bit of research would be appropriate?
 
Is this a poll? Snowbum provides excellent advice which I have been wise to follow.

I, too, think Snowbum is a great source for information. But I don't know anyone who thinks his words are "Gospel" - at least not on par with the "Gospel" that I know. If there is someone, they will be mistaken, because I am sure that they will be disappointed with something he says or recommends.

I am wondering, however, why one would think this one is an impostor? When I first read his msg, I went and checked the source and it looked genuine to me. I guess others did not!
 
Kurt.......ONCE AGAIN........thanks for what you and the other MODS do on here. That said, you know me and how I truly detest folks that run their mouth on here just to get thread count credibility; but NOW..............Some guy who plagarizes one of the true folks that one can go to in order to get a real and valid opinion as to what is going on with the mechanics of the "Airhead" design motorcyles. Seems that this fraud should be brought out and villified rather than just let it ride...........God bless.........Dennis

Who plegarized anything? I can't find it. Kurt didn't. So who did?

Seems like you got your knickers in a ruffle for nothing.


Talk about . . . well, I won't continue.
 
Come on, guys....can't we just get back to talking about tires and pressures? Has it gotten that far into winter already??? Wow, have I just asked for a tire thread? :hide

Move on, please.
 
Ahhhh.......NOW I see what happened and I apologize to ROBERT/Snowbum1 and others on here. I did make a mistake of NOT hitting on his name and checking out WHO this person was. If one reads, which most of you do, I am defending Robert, what he does, his knowledge and experience, and his contributions to keeping our machines on the road. I was premature in his defense as I really thought that a person came on here and was passing himself off as Robert.

By the way, someone copied and pasted the question of "who takes Snowbum as gospel" and it appears that it is MY comment...........NOT

Thanks for understanding this and I apologize for the confusion. I am proud of what I try to bring to this forum and at the same time don't just make contributions in order to UP my thread count and credibility. So.............As Kurt says.......Let's get on with it.........God bless........Dennis
 
What does threadcount have to do with tire air pressures?

I have heard of threadcount was important when the bride was shopping for sheets. (Joke)

Seriously though I have always run the tires at recommended pressure as on sticker on bike. 30 lbs front and rear actually. I am hoping to be able to ride the /6 to the Harvest Classic this weekend and am going to try maybe 33 and 36 and see how she feels so this thread was beneficial to me.
 
Hey Dpmonk,after you make the adjustment to the air pressure can you let us know if it made any difference?
 
Correct Tire Pressure?

Actually what Robert says is right on the mark. I learned a couple of sets of tires ago that the pressures under the seat are not to be believed, unless, you are running "classic" tires. And of those that are "classic", I would suggest that the compounds and construction they are using are at least somewhat more advanced than they were back in, say, 1978. I am running Pirelli Sport Demons on my 78 R100RS currently. I traded in my Dunlops, due to strange wear, due to running around underinflated it appears. (I think that lower than what they should have been pressure-wise contributed to the early demise of my Metzlers too. I ran Michelins for two stints before the Dunlops and got good wear and handling, but was running a suggested higher pressure rather than the bike label). I talked to the mechanic at the place I purchased the Pirellis and he suggested running slightly below the sidewall pressure which is 42psi cold. I started off with 38psi front and 40 rear. I rode to several events after my change to the Pirelli and found the handling to be very nice in the mountains of Idaho and Washington. I also played around with rear spring tension versus load on the bike. These all have very important effects on the handling, because essentially you are changing the geometry of the bike itself. (I learned all about this at the Salem rally in one of the Rider University classes for high speed cornering. Which brings me to another point, I have been riding since 1979, (my RS since 85) and had never really had any of that explained to me, just another reason to try to attend the MOA rally, imho).
So basically what I am saying is check with the manufacturer if nothing else. Play with your pressures. Another interesting thing is that I bought a little infrared thermometer to see just how much the pressure changed with temperature. On a really hot day, the pressure went up 10% easily with what seems like a big increase in temp (around 15-20 degrees), regardless of whether I was on the freeway or playing in the hills a little bit. And THAT is the reason they give you a max cold temp. It accounts for the temp/pressure rise that you should experience in normal use without exceding the absolute design maximum pressure of the tire, hot). Several have posted that they run a little lower pressure for racing. I believe that will cause the tire to run hotter and increase the temperature which will alter the compound somewhat and the handling. (Just my opinion). I have had a tire go down on me slowly and definitely felt the change in handling so I believe I would now know if the the pressures weren't correct, as in too low. I think my RS and I have finally come to an agreement with each other that I will closely monitor the tire pressures and spring load to maintain the proper geometry the bike was designed with and the bike will bless me with many more years of fine motorcycling. And I might suggest that almost all of the tires I have run, (except the Continentals which were too hard and never felt right to me), or that anyone runs, will perform and wear great with small differences (sport touring types my only experience), provided you get the most definitive pressure for your application from the manufacturer if possible, maintain that pressure and adjust your rear spring tension and tire pressures for your load to keep the original geometry of your bike intact.
(Note: Your results may vary. NOT written by a professional writer on a closed course computer). HAH! Feel free to fire away :brow
 
Tire Pressure Monitors

Robert and Bill give a very accurate description with air pressure and how they are different than what may be on the frame sticker or owner's manual. Surely NOT to get off topic, as one guy may alude, but has anyone used TPMs? Tire pressure monitors.

I first began using them with my Airstream maybe 4 years ago to alert me of not only slow leaks but blow outs. On an aluminum travel trailer this can cause totally catostropic damage to a wheel well when the tire begins to flop around inside the well within perhaps 1/4 mile........

Saved me 3 times that blowouts happened when traveling out in the 4 corners in the summer and a couple of times indicated slow leaks. Yes, the temps of the tires with the blowouts were high and could have been contributing factors along with faulty tires.

2 years ago I began to use it on my /6. What I really like is that the monitor advises me after the bike has sat for a period of time and lost pressure. I don't know about others but that is a little chore that I really don't enjoy.......checking and then dragging out the compressor hose..........The monitor also let me know about a slow leak LONG before there was a noticeable handling problem.

Where I also use the monitors is on my Merc SLK 320 to keep it in top roller skate handling condition; but this is a motorcycle forum and surely not to get off topic..............THEY WORK........God bless........Dennis
 
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