Engine Removal 1985 R80

Hello everyone,

I have been looking, searching and reading my manual, but is it possible to remove the motor without taking the transmission off first as the book says? Maintenance issues finally surfaced, I guess that gremlin bell only lasts but so long. While checking the oil, it was almost a quart low, from 2 weeks ago. So while I knew the pushrod tubes leaked some , but now a river runs through it. I noticed oil dripping from the valve cover seal, when to tighten.....couldn't, stud is striped in the head, gotta helicoil it. and plenty of other leaks, I know I am going to fix the valve cover bolt this week, I didn't want to pull the motor until I return to the states because I want to restore the bike, only want to pull the motor once so I can powdercoat the frame it is too expensive here in Germany, and I am getting a new 1200GS in Feb of next year. I have seen vides and articles about replacing the pushrod seals, if I am going to go that far, might as well hone and re-ring the pistons. Just don't want to do that here. Just need the ole airhead to last for 2 more months before winter sets in.

Phil -

I suppose it is possible, but you'd need 3-4 of your strongest friends around. I'm pretty sure you'll have to remove the battery and tray no matter what plus the air cleaner housing...probably more little stuff. After that, to get the tranny out is basically only 4 bolts. I don't think the swingarm has to be fiddled with to get the tranny out.

If it were me, I'd just do the tranny then the engine is that much easier to wrestle out.

You know, the 1980s R80s are notorious for warped rocker cover sealing surfaces - especially on the left side. When I was younger and even more of an idiot than I am now, I used to over-tighten the left side rocker cover until the drips stopped. Pulled the stud out of the aluminum once and then pulled the stud with a helicoil. Big pain to fix the 2nd time. Then I discovered those silicone rocker cover gaskets from Real Gaskets. They sometimes like to shift around during installation, but they are thick and squishy enough to seal a slightly warped head without going past the recommended torque settings for the rocker cover fasteners.

You should not need to hone those nickasil cylinders (I don't even think that you can) ? I've got 235K on my 85 R80RT and have not messed with the rings or cylinders. The valves will need work from time to time, but the combination of nickasil coating and almost straight chrome rings just keeps going and going.

Those '85 R80 motors are pretty good.

Maybe I'm missing the point, but the maintenance you're talking about doesn't require engine removal. Very little does, except powder coating the frame. Anyway, the easiest way I've found is to remove the tranny and starter, etc. then remove the frame from the engine. SInce you're stripping the frame for powder coating anyway. Then when you get the frame back, put the frame back on the engine. I work by myself, so I have to come up with inventive ways to get things done.

I'd remove the starter after the fact, though it does weight a good bit. When it comes time to put it back together, I've read where someone put the engine on its side, maybe supported a bit by say milk crate. Then, take the bare frame and slide it down and around the engine. Saves having to be careful lifting the engine back into the frame, jeopardizing the new finish on the frame. That might even be able to be done by one person.