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2012 R1200 R brake fluid replacement and bleed

I've read the great diy on brake fluid replacement and bleeding done on RTs from 2007 on (posted in 2009). My concern is that I've had to replace the upper front brake line on my 2012 R1200R so that I now have a huge air bubble in the front integrated ABS system. I'd like to just replace fluid and bleed in the traditional way as described in the excellent diy of several years ago, but I'm concerned that using this traditional method may screw up my ABS controller by getting air trapped in the controller that could be nasty to remove. Anybody had experience with this or do I have to roll up my sleeves, take the gas tank off and bleed at the controller?
 
I've had to replace my upper front brake line in my 2012 R 1200 R so that I now have a huge air bubble in the front portion of the integrated ABS system. Do I have to take the gas tank off and bleed at the controller, or can I use the more traditional method of using a vacuum pump at the reservoirs and calipers? I'm concerned that I might get a bubble stuck in the controller and have a real problem on my hands. Anybody had any experience with this. Thanks!
 
I replaced the front brake line when I installed handlebar risers. I just drained down at the calipher and used a mitey vac to bleed. Not sure how you got a air bubble. Where do you see it?
 
I am not 100% sure, but unless you have a linked brake system or the "power brakes" you should not have a problem. I am going through the same process right now, albeit with an older bike (99 RT)
 
Mike,

I suspect if you use the tiny bleeder at the top of the master-cylinder you can get most of the air out without introducing any to the ABS modulator (and yes - this system has both linked brakes and "power" ABS, but not "power" brakes.)

I would suggest that you find someone who has a GS-911 with the latest software, it has an ABS bleed function that activates the ABS and pushes fluid through it - which is then followed by a normal brake bleed. It's possible you may get some air into the ABS system that otherwise can't be removed. I don't believe it's necessary to R&R the tank, there are no bleed nipples at the ABS modulator.

BTW - I merged the double-postings into one thread.
 
Mike,

I suspect if you use the tiny bleeder at the top of the master-cylinder you can get most of the air out without introducing any to the ABS modulator (and yes - this system has both linked brakes and "power" ABS, but not "power" brakes.)

I would suggest that you find someone who has a GS-911 with the latest software, it has an ABS bleed function that activates the ABS and pushes fluid through it - which is then followed by a normal brake bleed. It's possible you may get some air into the ABS system that otherwise can't be removed. I don't believe it's necessary to R&R the tank, there are no bleed nipples at the ABS modulator.

BTW - I merged the double-postings into one thread.

Thank you for the tip and saving me from extra work. I'll check out the GS 911. Thanks also for combining the threads. I posted the first one at "new members" and then thought it may get lost in the conversation. I'll be more careful in the future.
 
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