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2013 R1200RT....motor oil question...

Don, I agree with you on those points. However, I have found a change in the current RepROM (for camheads and hexhead) from the previous one (hexheads only).

As I said before, BMW is now specifying the SAF-XO for both the FD and gearbox. I think the reason for this is that they are now specifying the gearbox oil change at 24k mile intervals instead of the previous 12k. I looked up a 2007 R1200R and it does indeed specify every two years or 40,000 km for gearbox oil change. The FD remains at every 12,000 miles or 20,000 km.

So since this is their new specification, I will be following it and buying BMW's stuff while under warranty for both my FD and gearbox.
 
Some confirmation of recent posts regarding 75w/90 for both FD and gear box: I stopped by dealer yesterday and noticed on the well stocked shelf of lubricants 75w/90 but no 75/140 and asked parts guy who i've dealt with for several years and i know to be knowledgeable and a straight shooter. He said the current (latest) BMW recommendatioin is for the 75w/90 BMW SAF-XO for both the FD and gearbox. I didn't look at the prices as frankly a few bucks one way or the other is not worth a lot of stress to me for a periodic maintenance I'm saving on by doing myself and i don't mind supporting the dealership a little by at least buying the supplies from them and at the same time following the manufacturer's recommendation.
 
another confirmation...

BMW Motorcycles says Mother BMW recommends BMW SAF-XO for the FD and gearbox....$22.15/liter and BMW Semi-Syn HP Engine Oil SAE15W50 for the motor....$10.97/qt....

just purchased the 24,000 mile "kit"....oil, filter, crush washers for crankcase, gearbox, o-ring and seal for FD, spark plugs, generator/alternator belt....total including tax was $216.57....

24k mile in less than an year....!!!!

wyman
 
I wish BMW would put their recommendations on the web for all to follow, along with an explanation. Did they change the transmission oil because engineering thought it was g good idea, or distribution wanted to reduce the types of oil they sell and engineering said "yeah, 70w90 will work".
 
deilenberger said:
A few points..

BMW-Motorad US sent a service bulletin to their dealers a number of years ago (around 2008 IIRC..) specifying that a 75W-90 oil be used in the rear drive. They mentioned the BMW branded synthetic. The BMW synthetic is not branded as a GL5.

The SAF-XO oil - if you research it IS a 75W-90 GL5 synthetic. It is now known (at least in the UK) as "SYNTRAX LONG LIFE 75W-90" http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=9014115&contentId=7068181. SAF-XO is also not branded as a GL5.

Castrol does offer Castrol Syntrax Limited Slip 75w‑90 GL5 Gear Oil ‑ 43‑0336 in the US - it isn't branded "Long Life", but it does specify "extended drain intervals intervals" (same thing IMHO.) It's readily available in the US. Thing is - the "limited slip" specification. Castrol does make specific GL5 "limited slip" oils in Europe. The difference between a limited slip and "normal" gear oil is friction modifiers that are in the limited-slip oils. Limited slip differentials rely on clutches to provide the "limited" effect. If the oil doesn't have the friction modifiers the clutches tend to bind, causing snapping noises on tight radius circles.

What to use for the rear drive? I was using the BMW 75W-90 Super Synthetic. It was around $25/quart. I use the BMW labeled Castrol SAF-XO, which cost about $30/quart. Considering the change interval, and the amount used (a quart will last you a very long time.) Why do I use it? BMW said to and on the grand scheme of things - saving $15 or so by using some other brand - when you consider that the quart might well last the entire life of my bike - it's a big deal.

For the transmission - I use the BMW 75W-140 Super Synthetic.

One final point on rear-drives. The most common failure on the big-hole rear drives is the large "crown" bearing that carries the inside end of the big crown (output) gear. Thing is - that bearing IS NOT IN THE OIL. It's a sealed bearing that is external on the drive, with an oil seal BEHIND it that keeps the oil away from it. Changing oil brands will have no effect on that bearing.

Now - how many angels can dance on the head of a pin? Inquiring minds wanna know..

Oh - one other thing. There is no Moss-Magnuson enforcement agency. If you want to enforce it - you're looking at hiring your own attorney to bring suit against BMW for violating the terms of the MM act. I don't think that would be cost effective to save $15 unless you're an attorney who doesn't value their time as worth much.
Click to expand...


According to a web search Castrol Syntrax is available at Auto Zone for $10/32 oz bottle. FWIW

And, you're right about enforcement of the MM act. I used to own a Kia Sorrento and when it came time to service the transmission I discovered that you could only use Kia transmission fluid. It is specially formulated and nothing else works. A clear and obvious violation of federal law, but nonetheless that's the way it is.:scratch
 
Hodadd said:
According to a web search Castrol Syntrax is available at Auto Zone for $10/32 oz bottle. FWIW

And, you're right about enforcement of the MM act. I used to own a Kia Sorrento and when it came time to service the transmission I discovered that you could only use Kia transmission fluid. It is specially formulated and nothing else works. A clear and obvious violation of federal law, but nonetheless that's the way it is.:scratch
Click to expand...

I guess no one has taken them to court yet. As far as maintenance items, I wonder how it plays out with cam chain tensioners on a HD twin cam. I've read that if it wears out, it's considered a maintenance item and not covered under warranty, but if the bike was serviced at a HD dealer, they tend to cover it.
 
ponch1 said:
I guess no one has taken them to court yet. As far as maintenance items, I wonder how it plays out with cam chain tensioners on a HD twin cam. I've read that if it wears out, it's considered a maintenance item and not covered under warranty, but if the bike was serviced at a HD dealer, they tend to cover it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's a whole 'nother kettle o' fish. I guess it's the plastic shoe underneath and is considered a normal wear item to be replaced at a set mileage, although it wasn't designed to be such. The big problem was that as it wore, it shedded plastic bits into the engine.:banghead

I just drove down to my local Auto Zone, and sure enough, they had the Castrol Syntrax sitting on the shelf for under 10 bux. :usa
 
Castrol Syntrax at autozone

when I go to the Autozone website, I only see the limited slip version. Looking at another site, there was a note stating that Castrol Syntrax could not be shipped within the US. I used the Amsoil hi pressure synthetic lubs for final drive and transmission at 6k because I could not find the spec'd version nearby here in the Florida Keys. I would use it if I could find it.
 
Last edited:
I've switched to Shell Aero 15/50 synthetic. Cheapest oil I could find. Five quarts for less than thirty bucks delivered to my door.
 
wwalton said:
when I go to the Autozone website, I only see the limited slip version. Looking at another site, there was a note stating that Castrol Syntrax could not be shipped within the US. I used the Amsoil hi pressure synthetic lubs for final drive and transmission at 6k because I could not find the spec'd version nearby here in the Florida Keys. I would use it if I could find it.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is the limited slip Syntrax. However, according to Castrol themselves this type oil is compatible with all gear boxes limited slip or not. Their other gears oils that are designated for non-limited slip applications are not cross compatible. :dunno
 
wwalton said:
when I go to the Autozone website, I only see the limited slip version. Looking at another site, there was a note stating that Castrol Syntrax could not be shipped within the US. I used the Amsoil hi pressure synthetic lubs for final drive and transmission at 6k because I could not find the spec'd version nearby here in the Florida Keys. I would use it if I could find it.
Click to expand...

The only non-LS gear oil I know of for the final drive, is from BMW. Given you only need 180 ml per change, I just buy it. I don't know if it rally makes a difference, but I am not going to experiment at my own expense. The transmission should be fine on any quality synthetic gear oil.
 
Just had the FPC recall done and a few other odds and ends. (Brake flush, rear end and tranny)

Current BMW spec is 15-50 Semi Synthetic. Straight from service manager today! At least for my '09.
 
Last edited:
In transmission:Super Tech 75W140 fully synthetic oil + cca 25% Lucas oil stabilizer
In final drive:Lucas 75W90 fully synthetic oil
In the engine:Shell Rotella T-15W40 50%+Shell Rotella T6 synthetic 5W40 50% + Lucas oil stabilizer cca10%(300to350 ML).
In Canadian climate it is perfectly ok combination.I am driving pretty much low miles per year cca 3000 mls.Changing oil every spring time.The 50-50% of oil mixture in engine makes10W40 weight of oil plus 10% of Lucas makes it extremely slippery.Never ever have had overheating.The engine temperature remains normal.Using Lucas in turbocharged HD diesel engines(a lot more heat compared to any atmospheric gasoline engines).It works for me.I am using the same combination in my cars,lawn mover and snow thrower. No ill effects for many years.:)

Steve
 
hibz said:
In transmission:Super Tech 75W140 fully synthetic oil + cca 25% Lucas oil stabilizer
In final drive:Lucas 75W90 fully synthetic oil
In the engine:Shell Rotella T-15W40 50%+Shell Rotella T6 synthetic 5W40 50% + Lucas oil stabilizer cca10%(300to350 ML).
In Canadian climate it is perfectly ok combination.I am driving pretty much low miles per year cca 3000 mls.Changing oil every spring time.The 50-50% of oil mixture in engine makes10W40 weight of oil plus 10% of Lucas makes it extremely slippery.Never ever have had overheating.The engine temperature remains normal.Using Lucas in turbocharged HD diesel engines(a lot more heat compared to any atmospheric gasoline engines).It works for me.I am using the same combination in my cars,lawn mover and snow thrower. No ill effects for many years.:)

Steve
Click to expand...

It doesn't get that hot in Canada. Come to hell and sit in traffic. :)
 
Actually,I have been in Phoenix,AZ on on 16th of 06.2012 by busyness.115*F.BTW,here in Canada in july can be easily 100*F.Hot and humid.That heat feels worst than 115*F in Phoenix,cosed by humidity.:eek:)
 
hibz said:
Actually,I have been in Phoenix,AZ on on 16th of 06.2012 by busyness.115*F.BTW,here in Canada in july can be easily 100*F.Hot and humid.That heat feels worst than 115*F in Phoenix,cosed by humidity.:eek:)
Click to expand...

I ride in it every day. You haven't lived until you feel the heat through the soles your boots when stopped at a light. 100 degrees is a rarity in Canada. Here it's for months.
 
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