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Oil Filter Wrench

I typically use the $7 Bosch available from my auto parts store. And the remaining $13 to pay for half of the Mobil1 15w50 to run through it.
 
For entertainment purposes...

As usual this will be more than anyone needs to know. You have been warned.
turn back now

OEM = Mahle OC91 (and others)
Can't find specs on this, other than outer dimensions.


Purolator powersports Application Guide says:
R1100RT => ML16825

Purolator ML16825 (bare steel)
=============================================
Anti-Drain Back Valve Yes
Height 3.1
O.D. 3.08
Relief Valve P.S.I. 14
Threads 3/4-16

Fram PH6063 (bare steel, black, orange, chrome...)
=============================================
Anti-Drain Valve NO
Gasket I.D. 2.47"
Gasket O.D. 2.88"
Gasket Thickness .13"
Gasket Usage Base
Product Height 3.19"
Product I.D. 3/4-16 Th'd
Product O.D. 3.08"
Relief Valve Setting PSI 9-11

PureONE PL25230 (grippy yellow paint and a sticker)
"99.9% efficient at 20 microns"
=============================================
Anti-Drain Back Valve Yes
Height 4.74
O.D. 2.98
Relief Valve P.S.I. 12-15
Thread Pitch UNF-2B
Threads 3/4-16
Nominal Application: 1998 - 2000 Ford Contour 2.0L Zetec

Purolator L25230 (white)
"97.5% efficient at 20 microns"
=============================================
Anti-Drain Back Valve Yes
Height 4.74
O.D. 2.98
Relief Valve P.S.I. 12-15
Thread Pitch UNF-2B
Threads 3/4-16
Nominal Application: 2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L TURBO DIESEL

Ok. First, I defy anyone to find an ML16825, and you shouldn't anyway because it is pretty much identical to the much cheaper Fram that you can find at WalMart.

I "believe" that the OEM Mann, Mahle, Wix, etc. may be higher quality construction than the low-end Fram but they don't really filter any better.

Fram has higher-end filters that are the same PH6063 size but have better filtering media, grippy paint, etc. Just read the cartons or visit the web site. A couple of them do well in the filtering tests.

You can also cross reference (see "Nominal Application") to fancy filters that are similar to the PureONE, offered by Fram, Bosch, STP, Mobil1. The PL25230 is the tallest one I have found.

Note that there are no efficiency ratings for the cheap and/or full flow filters because the only test I have heard of is for 20 micron (0.020mm) particles. ...if your filter lets 20 micron particles through then it ain't gonna be very efficient. To me this means that if they don't boast on the web site or package about some efficiency rating (at 20 microns) then we have to assume it doesn't stop particles that small at all. But, they might be pretty efficient at 50 microns, we just don't know.

Is this a problem?

R1100 main bearing radial clearance = 0.018mm - 0.068mm with a wear limit of 0.13mm
So let's be practical and assume we have 50 microns average clearance in the most harshly hammered place in the motor.

The real, truthful answer is NO, it isn't really a problem, and as the bearings wear it becomes less of a problem... right?
The truth is there's a lot of room in there and that's why we need 50 weight oil.

Now, what do I like about the PureONE PL25230?
  • 99.9% efficient at 20 microns, meaning, in ONE PASS it removes 99.9% of particles larger than 20 microns.
  • It is bigger than OEM. More filtering media means it can collect more dirt.
  • It is taller than OEM, hangs down out of its cave where I can grab it.
  • Has grippy paint.
  • Is somewhat less expensive than OEM.

What do I NOT like about it?
  • Hard to find. Pep Boys and Advance Auto Parts

Fear, uncertainty, doubt?
  • Isn't it more restrictive, won't the pressure across the media be higher, does it have a relief valve, will it open at a low enough pressure that boxer will always have oil?,?,?,?
    - Ok, what if it is somewhat more restrictive when the oil is cold? As you can see in the specs, the relief valve opens at a LOWER pressure than OEM.
    Purolator does not expect the pressure across the media to exceed 12 PSI.
    I believe the OC91's relief valve is 20 PSI, although I can't seem to find that anywhere.
  • Is having an anti-drainback valve a problem?
    - No, many of the OEM equivalent filters just happen to have one.

Do you need a full-flow filter? Yeah, if you have an old V-twin that doesn't even make enough pressure at idle to keep the 3 PSI oil pressure warning light turned off.

At idle the R1100 produces 50 PSI oil pressure according to this service manual I'm reading.
 
The oilhead filter does not run inverted.

Just so it's known, filters sold in the USA labeled Bosch are not Bosch made and are not the same as those sold in Europe. They're really of no better quality than any other private label filter marketed in the USA.

The OEM for oilhead filters is Mahle/Knecht.

engine_oilfilter_oc91_sm.jpg
 
Last edited:
Purolater PL20252 is also a same mount but longer filter housing like the PL25230. But I have no internal specifics on the filter to feel good about using it as an alternative to the PL10241.
 
If you are going to use acronyms, best to know there is a difference between OE and OEM and what that really means.
 
Purolater PL20252 is also a same mount but longer filter housing like the PL25230. But I have no internal specifics on the filter to feel good about using it as an alternative to the PL10241.
This is straight off of http://www.pureoil.com

PL20252
Anti-Drain Back Valve Yes
Height 4.74
O.D. 2.98
Relief Valve P.S.I. 25-35
Thread Pitch UNF-2B
Threads 3/4-16
Type of Filter Spin-on

Higher relief valve pressure than PL25230, otherwise identical.
Problem? I don't know, I doubt it.

PL10241
Anti-Drain Back Valve Yes
Height 3.36
O.D. 2.98
Relief Valve P.S.I. 12-15
Thread Pitch UNF-2B
Threads 3/4-16
Type of Filter Spin-on
 
Gee this is entertaining...

I used to run a filter test lab and can't get too excited by anyone who uses a well made substitute though mine are always OE equivalents- can't see any good reason to second guess the engine guys for a few pennies. Bypasses, overpressure protections and whatever aren't a filters most important characteristics- flow, build quality and dirt holding capacity/efficiency are and are the guts of all filter design and QC testing..

FWIW, the most common test rigs in design facilities focus on multi-pass testing which is what happens in a motor. By far the largest number and mass of particles in common dirts are well under 20 microns. And 50 micron stuff is boulders to filter guys. Sizes quantitated in the lab are on the order of human cells (5-10 microns) and smaller and many of the tools in fact derive from what was originally med lab or space science technology. Oil filters operate by principles of depth filtration on which more than a few texts are written- NOT on membrane filtration principles so they all pass some amount of even large particles..

Heck, I use the dinky BMW one of my K1200GT, by far the smallest filter on anything I've ever owned. Even without any lab data on it I can tell you that if you somehow manage to plug it you've got worse problems than a plugged filter and better be on good terms with your engine builder.

My first thought about a longer replacement on an RT is to remind users to add a fender extender and be extra careful of hitting road objects so the filter doesn't get hit and punctured. Its not the engine that's at risk- its your butt from oil on the rear tire. But still by far not the highest probability way to get hurt. GS guys with decent shields need not worry...
 
Yeah, all that research...

Thinking yeah, I'll use the best full synthetic oil available, and I'll put the best 20 micron filter on there; this thing will last forever.

Then I change both once a year. Which is 3000-4000 miles for me lately.
:rolleyes

Just a big waste of time really. That motor couldn't care less.
 
Hmmm... Spend $22,000 on your ride then pat yourself on the back for saving what, $15 once or twice a year by buying oil and a filter that you hope is just as good as what BMW recommends?! :laugh

We certainly are a strange bunch!
 
Hmmm... Spend $22,000 on your ride then pat yourself on the back for saving what, $15 once or twice a year by buying oil and a filter that you hope is just as good as what BMW recommends?! :laugh

We certainly are a strange bunch!

True. Anyone out there care to guess what the projected lifetime savings comes to with an aftermarket oil filter as opposed to an OEM oil filter? I'm a fanatic on oil changes as I do it every 2.5k. I know... waste of money but I feel good. I never write anything down as far as maintenance records for my personal vehicles. When I look at the odometer the 2.5k is just easier to remember so that passes the test for me. Now if I ride the bike 250,000 miles that means 100 oil & filter changes. If I save $10 per filter that works out to a $1,000 savings for every 250,000 miles I ride. I ride approximately 15k to 20k per year but that can be on multiple motorcycles. But if I rode 20k on just one bike it would take 12 1/2 years to reach that mileage. That means I would save $80 per year on oil filters.

I don't know about most on the forum but I'm not smart enough to be an oil engineer/scientist and I really don't know much more about oil filters if anything. I'll just have to take that $80 out of the budget for something else. I truly hope that $80 difference isn't altering anyone's lifestyle out there. At my age I'll likely be 6 foot under in 12 1/2 years anyway which means I'll pretty much give it zero thought for the rest of my life. Please note a cager taking me out prior to that will alter the total expenditure.
 
$22,000...$15

Actually it may be worse than that.
$7000 for the RT several years ago.

The PureONE cost me $12 last time I found it.
The BMW shop wants $18 for the correct one. Not a huge savings there.

Then I spend about $8 per quart for Mobil1 15w50.

AND THEN I change all of it at anywhere from 3000 to 5000 miles.

It's nuts.

I think the truth is, the Mobil1 will not break down in the R1100 motor.
And, I think, it can look incredibly dirty and still do its job.
When it "looks dirty" to human eyes it has particles in it that are sailing through the filter.
This means they are too small to do any harm to the motor. Even with the stock filter.
 
These pics have been around for a while...

This is a Pay Me Now, Or Pay Me Later (do you remember that FRAM slogan) FRAM oil filter...
FRAM%20Open.jpg


This is a BMW Mahle oil filter...
BMW%20Open.jpg


Unless someone on this forum works in a lab testing oil filters, they really can't comment on filtration qualities of any oil filter, other than quoting (with a link) manufacturer's specs.

Construction quality? Well without a question, the BMW Mahle is tops. I actually cut an old one apart to see if it is as shown in the above pic; it is. The drain holes have no burrs, etc.

I am always amazed how oil threads go on ad nauseam with everybody wanting the best oil...and then they go out and hang a cheap oil filter off the end of their engine. :laugh

And if you are anal about filtration, get a Canton-Mecca oil filter.
 
Hmmm... Spend $22,000 on your ride then pat yourself on the back for saving what, $15 once or twice a year by buying oil and a filter that you hope is just as good as what BMW recommends?! :laugh

We certainly are a strange bunch!

It's NOT about the savings, it's about the bragging. The feeling that little old you, one of billions on the planet, have beat the system. No need for that engineering degree for me!
 
Gotta love Wunderlich.

You mean Wunderlich America who are just a distributor.

That Hazet 2169 oil filter socket isn't even in the Wunderlich.de catalog.

BTW, I have two of them. I believe I paid under $20 for them back in the day.

I have both stamped steel and cast aluminum oil filter sockets. I much prefer the cast aluminum sockets for their fit.
 
Gotta love wunderlich.
Only 4 times more than what you need to pay! :laugh

Go to Canadian Tire and buy a Mazda oil filter wrench for ten bucks.
Or Bob's BMW. Same price.

Too late. And I'm proud that I spent too much. Balances off the money I saved buying Fram filters. Kidding! :D
 
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