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Followed me home today

N

nc bmw driver

Guest
Brought home a '78 R100/7 as an older sister to my R100RT today.

Hey, it was cheap - real cheap, but will need some loving care to bring it back to life again, but it is complete.

A few questions.
Fuel tank. It has some liquid in it - I'm assuming it used to be gas and it still sloshes. Took the petcocks out and nothing is draining. Ran a bolt up into the tank and didn't improve the situation. It seemed like a good idea to remove the fuel tank cap, which didn't move, so I'm assuming it's got some corrosion. What's the best way to remove the cap without damage, and how do I get the stuff out? I'm already planning on rustproofing the tank once I can get it flushed out.

Question 2: The points and all associated attachment was removed at some point in the past. Should I just install an electronic ignition, or replace the point system. I'll take a photo later of what is left. If I should go electronic ignition which is a good unit to get?

Q3: The carbs are off. One is disassembled and in a baggie, the other is together and in a baggie. I was planning on rebuilding them myself (done several SU's, Strombergs and Carters in the past), but the PO of this bike said the carbs should be put on a flow bench to be properly set up. Truth? They don't appear to be too complicated. Where to get the proper rebuild kits?

Stand by for more...
 

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Brought home a '78 R100/7 as an older sister to my R100RT today.

Hey, it was cheap - real cheap, but will need some loving care to bring it back to life again, but it is complete.

Congratulations - cheap is relative - let's talk when you're done with getting her up & running :violin

A few questions.
Fuel tank.

I restored an R65LS and gas cap had a lock but I didn't get a key with the bike - you can drill a small hole and put in a screw and then turn it - Anton has or had a write up on his webpage about doing this:
http://www.largiader.com/shop/

Q2: Points - will defer to the others here - I added electronic ignition kit to my JD 112 lawn tractor and a friend did the same to his R90/6. I have points on my R60/5.

Q3: The carbs are off.

Bing Agency sells parts as does Hucky BMW Spare Parts and your BMW dealer. I bought an ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight, which did wonders on carbs.

Stand by for more...

Good Luck - should be a rewarding project for you!
 
Fuel cap: could it be locked? If someone tightened it and it started to ratchet, that could be bad news. Often times, the small teeth that engage will break off and create a stuck cap. Snowbum discusses methods for removing the cap. One is not destructive...put a belt or strap through the handle and then around your neck. Stand on the pegs and with upward pressure, see if you can turn the cap off. Failing that, you may have to drill through the cap...Snowbum describes where to drill.

Ignition: You could check with some of the salvage places and see if they can provide you with the stock points system. There are a variety of electronic ignitions out there. The Dyna III, however, requires that you have the original advance unit. The Boyer doesn't IIRC. There are some other ignition systems as well.

Carbs: False...carbs don't need to be "flowed". Once rebuilt, you tweak them while on the bike with engine running...more on that when you get there. Bing has the parts. I understand that BMW dealers actually sell carb parts cheaper.
 
Fuel cap: could it be locked? If someone tightened it and it started to ratchet, that could be bad news. Often times, the small teeth that engage will break off and create a stuck cap. Snowbum discusses methods for removing the cap. One is not destructive...put a belt or strap through the handle and then around your neck. Stand on the pegs and with upward pressure, see if you can turn the cap off. Failing that, you may have to drill through the cap...Snowbum describes where to drill.
Got the gas cap off. Had to drill it and used a piece of welding wire to lock it in place so I could turn it. Not too hard and glad to get it off safely. Now to clean out the tank and make sure it's in good shape.

Ignition: You could check with some of the salvage places and see if they can provide you with the stock points system. There are a variety of electronic ignitions out there. The Dyna III, however, requires that you have the original advance unit. The Boyer doesn't IIRC. There are some other ignition systems as well.
Thanks. I'll be looking for more advice on this later I'm sure.

Carbs: False...carbs don't need to be "flowed". Once rebuilt, you tweak them while on the bike with engine running...more on that when you get there. Bing has the parts. I understand that BMW dealers actually sell carb parts cheaper.

Thanks - looking around for carb parts now. Fortunately one is still together so I can use that to make sure the one that is apart goes together properly.

So far the bike appears to be in pretty good shape. I'm sure it will take some time and money to get it really nice, but it is a good, solid starting point.

Thanks for the help so far.
 
Progress report.

Got most of the bike apart and am cleaning and evaluating.

The cylinders are within specs, the pistons are within specs, the ring gaps are within specs and the main bearings look good as do the combustion chambers and pistons. I need to check the valves and valve guides, but the look good visually.

I'll be installing a Dyna III electronic ignition system and have all the parts needed.

I need a good place to send the carbs for rebuild. Any recommendations in NC?

The frame is good and rust free. Just needs some cleaning up and paint.

The front brake master cylinder is pit free and just needs to be rebuilt, the front caliper needs to be rebuilt and the piston replaced. The rear brakes look fine. I need to find a stainless hose for the front brake. Any recommendations?

I remember reading a post about someone who painted their engine black. Was that here? It looked good and I'd like to go that route. Anyone remember the thread?

Photos to follow, but all looks pretty good so far.
 
You might want to consider refurbing the carbs yourself. Bing sells a DVD that helps with the process. I've read good things from other threads here on the forum. If you want someone else to do it, check out this list of Airhead-friendly shops in North Carolina:

http://micapeak.com/bmw/Airhead-Shops.html

This link comes from the larger thread in my signature line.

As for painting the engine black, I think you should reconsider that. The stubbly nature of the engine finish was done for a reason...heat dissippation. Filling the humps and bumps as well as changing the way the engine radiates heat is not really recommended. Nothing wrong with the way the engine looks now...IMO!!

I found some threads on painting engine parts:

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?57085-Black-paint-on-R65-engine
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?34322-Painting-Engine-Parts
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?618-Painting-the-Beemer-Engine-Case
 
i've had good luck with Bombar's Beemers in Durham. they're an advertiser and have a website. They have a lot of airhead experience.
 
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