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K1300 Gt final drive leak

S

SANDFORD

Guest
Bought a 2010 K1300 Gt to replace my 09 lost in a fire. This was a consignment sale from a Michigan dealer, bike had 4500 miles at purchase now has 5300 miles. Seeing some oil spots on rear wheel and can detect some seepage at rear drive seal. My warranty is up in July. Although a minor leak now my thoughts are its only going to get worse. My 09 started leaking at 45000 miles. I hear horror stories on the repair outcomes hope I have better luck. Will keep you posted. One dealer told me the bike was not used enough causing possible seal issue. Sounds like BS.
 
First, get the drive properly service by draining the old oil while hot, then refill with the correct quantity of correct gear lube. The dealer may be willing to cut you a deal on doing this first as a diagnostic step. It's possible the drive has been over-filled, or filled with incorrect lube. Since this was a consignment sale the dealer is not directly responsible for the condition of the bike, but can help you out with the warranty service if the drive proves to have a problem.

Best,

GTRider
 
Drain FD and refill with 180 ml of BMW SAF-X. As I recall, the original 220 ml FD refill volume was associated with seal leakage.
 
I had mine done last summer with 15K-16K kilometers on it. (~10,000 miles) It starts seeping as you describe. Because of the low volume it is best to have the seal replaced ASAP. The dealer in Calgary did it on warranty (Bought it there new so you'd expect that) but it only took a couple of hours and the bike now has an additional 9K kilometers since with no sign of failure. The horror stories of final drive failures is disturbing but I am hoping that this is a thing of the past with the addition of a drain plug on the drive suggesting that it being a sealed unit forever is not a good idea.

Good luck.
 
Seal Failure K1300 Gt 2010

Rode to the michigan dealer for the final drive seal repair. Bike has 5400 miles its a 2010. Stopped for gas bike would barely turn over, no start. Outside temp 73 F. Let it sit for a time , same thing . Acted like a dead battery. This used to happen with my 2009 but it always started after a brief pause. This time I was lucky to find a healthy guy that pushed while I bump started. Dealer indicates the fix is a larger battery cable. In the mean time I will always park at the top of a hill. Maybe beemers should have a kickstarter or a crank for backup. I do have a new shorai battery sitting here but I am afraid of installing in case the battery cable possibly overheats. The dealer fix is quite lengthy involving gas tank removal and such but likely the final solution.
 
Don't worry

In my experience batteries last 3 years and that's it. Been through 4 so far. So buy a new one and get on with it. I also had a leaking rear drive seal and had the dealer replace it 10K miles ago. Never had a problem afterward. Another guy who was in for the same thing had a bad final drive, the wheel could be moved from side to side. Mine couldn't so it was pronounced just a seal problem.
 
Final Drive seal repaired as well as hot start issue 2010 k1300 GT

Final drive seal was repaired under warranty as well as hot start issue. milage 5700 . Putting a new battery in is not the solution as was suggested in another post the battery tested fine. A more powerfull battery may overide the problem. The problem is an under size battery cable and related wiring. A known problem with the K1300 gt 09 to 2010. My dealer ordered the revised harness and installed it, since then it fires up hot or cold. Got to say the anti spin control keeps the front end down when a brisk launch is called for. These bikes go like hell.
 
I haven't compared the battery box on my wedge K1200GT to the 1300 but I replaced the crappy stock battery with an Odyssey- best for the $ you can get. Have tried assorted cheapo Chinese AGM with early failures and won't use the old reliable wet batteries. BMW gels even when new don't crank at all well in the cold- suspect its basic electrolyte mobility in the battery.
Odysseys survive race car abuse, deep discharge and other abuse. Do need a proper charger.
 
Final drive seal was repaired under warranty as well as hot start issue. milage 5700 . Putting a new battery in is not the solution as was suggested in another post the battery tested fine. A more powerfull battery may overide the problem. The problem is an under size battery cable and related wiring. A known problem with the K1300 gt 09 to 2010. My dealer ordered the revised harness and installed it, since then it fires up hot or cold. Got to say the anti spin control keeps the front end down when a brisk launch is called for. These bikes go like hell.

The battery cable was a recall and should have been done long ago. The shaft seal is a common replacement part. I now just carry an extra on long trips as it is a 15 min. job. Your brisk launch has a governor of sorts in first and second gear, maybe even third. A stepper motor limits throttle in those gears. Now some have forgotten to put that little motor back in its bracket, after having the tank off, or have shimmed it back so it doesn't touch the throttle rail. If you do this it is best to count down before launch because it straightens your arms.

:heart
 
Is there anyway to determine if the upgraded battery cable has been installed?
The dealer says all recalls are complete on my 09 K13GT but they only did the cam chain guard and reflashed the ECU. Any others will be based on the computer records only I assume. A new O2 sensor was installed when the dealer did the service before I bought it. The bike starts beautifully hot or cold so far and no stalling issue.

But after reading about all the Drive Shaft issues on this forum and others I just had the Drive Shaft on my low mileage new to me 09 K13GT tore down, inspected, and lubed. The rear wheel bearings were replaced but other than that the drive was in excellent condition. It probably sat for long periods to cause the rear bearings to get notchy.
 
Is there anyway to determine if the upgraded battery cable has been installed? /QUOTE]

A quick and easy way to see if the supplemental starter wiring upgrade was done is to pull the battery cover.
There should be an additional 6 gauge wire on the + battery terminal.
But to see if everything was done you need to pull the fuel tank. because
In addition there are larger hot and ground wires going to and from the starter relay.
There's also a new starter relay included (I assume a heavier duty relay)

I could be wrong but I don't think there was an official recall.
Anyone with a hot start issue supposedly just need complain about it to the dealer and it'll be taken care of.
Or not. Depending on the dealer.
 
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