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Thread: ABS Problem

  1. #1
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    ABS Problem

    Hi I am new to the RT and MOA. I have a 2005 R1150 RT that I purchased in Sept 2014 in the winter I did a service to all the systems , lubed the spline replaced the clutch and a new final seal and bleed the brakes system. I had no problems with the both front systems and the rear caliper but the rear control system we experienced very small air bubbles in all three control bleeder screws we tried different methods to stop air from entering the bleeder screws like putting brake fluid around the screws etc.. but still the same problem so we left the problem alone till the start of the new season. I am riding the bike now and have noticed not every time but some of the times the rear brake disc is very hot to warm and sometimes the same as the front discs, on different ride that I have gone on. I have greased the pins on the rear caliper and I have replaced the seals but the dragging problem still persists I went on a long ride yesterday and the disc temp stayed at about 120F am I experiencing two different problems or are they related and is there a way to repair these problems Thanks Ian.

  2. #2
    God? What god? roborider's Avatar
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    (redacted)--wrong bike model!
    Last edited by roborider; 06-29-2015 at 02:58 PM.
    Rob C. , Raleigh, NC
    '10 R12RT, R90/6
    2007 CBR600RR & 09 V-Star
    Suzuki DR 350

  3. #3
    Registered User mneblett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swift View Post
    Hi I am new to the RT and MOA. I have a 2005 R1150 RT that I purchased in Sept 2014 in the winter I did a service to all the systems , lubed the spline replaced the clutch and a new final seal and bleed the brakes system. I had no problems with the both front systems and the rear caliper but the rear control system we experienced very small air bubbles in all three control bleeder screws we tried different methods to stop air from entering the bleeder screws like putting brake fluid around the screws etc.. but still the same problem so we left the problem alone till the start of the new season. I am riding the bike now and have noticed not every time but some of the times the rear brake disc is very hot to warm and sometimes the same as the front discs, on different ride that I have gone on. I have greased the pins on the rear caliper and I have replaced the seals but the dragging problem still persists I went on a long ride yesterday and the disc temp stayed at about 120F am I experiencing two different problems or are they related and is there a way to repair these problems Thanks Ian.
    Something to rule out: Check whether the brake light is stuck on and you hear the ABS pump(s). The Integral pumps and the brake light are turned on by the brake light switches (not the pressure in the control circuits). The amount of pressure the pumps apply to the wheel circuits (after they have been turned on) is then being determined by the amount of pressure in the control circuits from the levers. If the pumps are on all the time, they would cause a constant light drag at the discs.
    Mark Neblett
    Fairfax, VA
    #32806

  4. #4
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    ABS Problem

    Thanks for the input. Before I started the brake system bleeding I looked around and found a Flushing and Breeding 101 which goes over the different systems in detail the two for the front and the two for the rear using the funnel stopper for the front and rears I had no problems with the rear calipers but it was when I did the rear control with the three bleeder screws that I had a problem. I had a friend who was following me mention to me not to long ago the he saw my rear brake light on when we where on a road that did not need brakes he thought that I had my foot on the brake I do not remember hearing the brake servo at that time. On my ride today I will listen for the servos coming on. Is there a way to reduce the rear bias to the rear or do I have to rebuild /replace the rear master cylinder? Thanks Ian

  5. #5
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    '
    Ufda happens..........

    It's all about the details.

  6. #6
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    Do you have the stock rubber lines on there, or have they been changed to Stainless (Spiegler, Goodrich, etc)? If original lines.. Junk 'em! NOW!
    My buddy has 2 ABS computer modules for sale (one good used, one rebuilt) because of a similar type issue, and his dealer thought it was the brain. They went thru 2 brains before discovering the real problem. Turned out to be a rear brake line that was broken/worn out internally, but gave no outward indication of damage.
    Stock lines dry out, rot, degrade... and are only "functional" at best when new.
    Ride Safe, Ride Lots

  7. #7
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerfish1100 View Post
    Stock lines dry out, rot, degrade... and are only "functional" at best when new.
    Not to mention burst with no warning..........
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    It's all about the details.

  8. #8
    God? What god? roborider's Avatar
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    Ignore my post. I see you have an 1150, not a 1200 RT. I misread.
    Rob C. , Raleigh, NC
    '10 R12RT, R90/6
    2007 CBR600RR & 09 V-Star
    Suzuki DR 350

  9. #9
    Registered User Blacque Jacque Shellacque's Avatar
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    Inspect the rear caliper pad retaining pin. If it is rusted, galled or worn, replace it. This resolved a dragging rear caliper on my R1150RS.

    https://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts...ikeref=R1150GS

  10. #10
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    One more thing to look at - On one bike, I spotted that the little sheet-metal finger of spring metal that actuates the switch at the rear of the rear brake lever had attached itself to the metal above, due to minor corrosion. A careful knife blade to pry it back apart, followed by a little WD-40 to clean it, solved that.

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