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K1600GT Service questions

Well if current practice is any indicator, it will be water pumps and switches. And perhaps replacing the front shock to eliminate a very annoying squeak. I don't have a crystal ball but my guess after owning two GTL's is that this bike will be pretty solid down the road save for what I have already mentioned. Beemer really needs to get a good electronics manufacturer for their switches. And I would love to see an after market company make a replacement non-slipper clutch.

Rick

Which has nothing to do with shade tree mechanics screwing up anything.
 
Odd comment, I've done ALL my own maintenance on all my bikes, cars, etc for a long time, if you got the skills and tools it dosen't matter what you paid for the machine.

So, let's see: You have the skills: Are you a trained motrcycle mechanic and attended all the service schools the manufacturer put up for the vehicles you owned?
You have the tools: Do you own a shop with all the proper diagnostic equipment to troubleshoot a modern electronically controlled vehicle? Do you own all the special tools required today for all possible different fasteners?
Do you have all specific service manuals, giving you all the torques, data and other specs for proper maintenance?

I have a masters in mechanical engineering. I raced bikes when I was younger. I still work on most of my classic bikes. There is a certain level of technology that became state fo the art at a certain time and I believe that maintenance of that should not be tackled at home in a garage. The K1600 is shock full of that stuff.
 
So, let's see: You have the skills: Are you a trained motrcycle mechanic and attended all the service schools the manufacturer put up for the vehicles you owned?
You have the tools: Do you own a shop with all the proper diagnostic equipment to troubleshoot a modern electronically controlled vehicle? Do you own all the special tools required today for all possible different fasteners?
Do you have all specific service manuals, giving you all the torques, data and other specs for proper maintenance?

I have a masters in mechanical engineering. I raced bikes when I was younger. I still work on most of my classic bikes. There is a certain level of technology that became state fo the art at a certain time and I believe that maintenance of that should not be tackled at home in a garage. The K1600 is shock full of that stuff.

And that's why I would never buy one. I'd have to get a second job just to pay for maintenance.
 
So, let's see: You have the skills: Are you a trained motrcycle mechanic and attended all the service schools the manufacturer put up for the vehicles you owned?
You have the tools: Do you own a shop with all the proper diagnostic equipment to troubleshoot a modern electronically controlled vehicle? Do you own all the special tools required today for all possible different fasteners?
Do you have all specific service manuals, giving you all the torques, data and other specs for proper maintenance?

I have a masters in mechanical engineering. I raced bikes when I was younger. I still work on most of my classic bikes. There is a certain level of technology that became state fo the art at a certain time and I believe that maintenance of that should not be tackled at home in a garage. The K1600 is shock full of that stuff.

I think the flaw in your logic is that the factory trained tech is always the guy doing all the work on your bike for the minor services (oil, filter and checks). . . .

I'm sorry but the minor service on these bikes is not complex, requires no special tools other than a torque wrench, and yes, I have the factory service manual which is pretty damn complete for all of the service procedures.

I've had too much shoddy work done at a variety of dealerships to think that I'm putting my bike in good hands EVERY time I drop it off.

Just my .02 and probably not worth that.
 
Well, you are retreating. ALL of the service work is different to MINOR service work, as far as I am concerned.
 
Hello all,

I have a few bmw bikes and do much of the servicing. But on my k16gt I can only do so much, I do fluid change, lub, brakes and farkling. The rest will be done at the stealer, for now. I'll see how it goes after the warranty. This bike is like a car and the things we can do are limited.

Yes the k16gt/gtl cost quite a bit to buy and service. But it gives a hell of a ride...

I just got my hand on a nice 1997r1100gs, and I think I'll have as much pleasure in working on it as riding it :D.
 
K1600 Maintenance

I applaud the gentleman for taking the initiative to want to do it himself.

I also applaud him for that same initiative. Why? Because of the most unpleasant experience at my 12,000 mile service. The service manager grossly underestimated the cost, I had to remind him to change the air filter cartridge which he apparently was not going to do, he refused to tell me exactly what would be performed in 12K service - said it was BMW 'proprietary' information - I had to refresh his memory that I own the motorcycle; not BMW, he lambasted me out in the showroom in the presence of many others for performing the oil change myself at 6,000 miles. In short it was a most unpleasant experience that left me quite bewildered why they think this the way to treat customers. The service manager clearly had the people skills of a slug. Why they think I have to endure overbearing, condescending and rude conduct is a big mystery to me. From now on I will perform all maintenance except for the valves, which I desperately wish I didn't need them for.
 
K1600 Service Manual

I think the flaw in your logic is that the factory trained tech is always the guy doing all the work on your bike for the minor services (oil, filter and checks). . . .

I'm sorry but the minor service on these bikes is not complex, requires no special tools other than a torque wrench, and yes, I have the factory service manual which is pretty damn complete for all of the service procedures.

I've had too much shoddy work done at a variety of dealerships to think that I'm putting my bike in good hands EVERY time I drop it off.

Just my .02 and probably not worth that.


Please tell me how to get a copy of the service manual.
 
Looked under the seat of a GTL yesterday...that's it? :laugh

Oddly enough, other than the T50 needed for the rear wheel, you can pretty much disassemble the K1600 with that little tool "set" (and a REALLY strong hand/arm).

As far as valves, its every 18k, and is quite expensive. expensive enough that I suggest you make a weekend out of it and find a different dealer if you don't like the one near you. The dealer I use actually can do mine in a single (very long) day. I have to promise the bike is cold before they open in the morning, as it requires disassembling the engine.

As far as a service manual, you can order it online (usually a illegal copy) via ebay, or online from a actual dealer and have it sent to you.

From reports I have heard, including mine, none of the k16s have actually needed any adjustments/shims on their first 18k valve check.
 
Oddly enough, other than the T50 needed for the rear wheel, you can pretty much disassemble the K1600 with that little tool "set" (and a REALLY strong hand/arm).
The dealer I use actually can do mine in a single (very long) day.
From reports I have heard, including mine, none of the k16s have actually needed any adjustments/shims on their first 18k valve check.

I had my 18K service done yesterday. At Ozzies BMW they let the costumers in the shop, so I was able to watch, ask questions, and lend a hand.
Mike, Ozzies head mechanic did the work. Mike knows I'm also a mechanic but of big yellow iron. He asked me to come to work as a motorcycle mechanic. My reply was no thanks, I would have to buy all new tools small enough for the work.
Mike is very through and knows his business.

One of the things that surprised me was how dirty the bottom of the radiator was. Road grim kicked up form the front tire. A fender extension won't help.
At Ozzies once the radiator is out it goes to a radiator shop to be cleaned and pressure tested.

Mike was able to get it done in about 6 hours, because he is the lead mechanic he has other duties as well, so the total time the bike was in the shop was about 7 hours. Mike also informed me next time, (36K service) I would need to leave it overnight if the valves needed to be adjusted.

Was it worth it?
Parts and supplies. $475
Labor. 6hr @ $85ph (cheap)
Peace of mind. Priceless.
 
I had my 18K service done yesterday. At Ozzies BMW they let the costumers in the shop, so I was able to watch, ask questions, and lend a hand.
Mike, Ozzies head mechanic did the work. Mike knows I'm also a mechanic but of big yellow iron. He asked me to come to work as a motorcycle mechanic. My reply was no thanks, I would have to buy all new tools small enough for the work.
Mike is very through and knows his business.

One of the things that surprised me was how dirty the bottom of the radiator was. Road grim kicked up form the front tire. A fender extension won't help.
At Ozzies once the radiator is out it goes to a radiator shop to be cleaned and pressure tested.

Mike was able to get it done in about 6 hours, because he is the lead mechanic he has other duties as well, so the total time the bike was in the shop was about 7 hours. Mike also informed me next time, (36K service) I would need to leave it overnight if the valves needed to be adjusted.

Was it worth it?
Parts and supplies. $475
Labor. 6hr @ $85ph (cheap)
Peace of mind. Priceless.

I wonder how the maintenance costs compare to other brands of touring bikes?
 
I wonder how the maintenance costs compare to other brands of touring bikes?

I use to have a Goldwing 1800. Just to do a valve adjustment was about $600 parts and labor.
To change all fluids and filters and every thing listed on the 18K service would put it up there comparable to K1600.
 
I use to have a Goldwing 1800. Just to do a valve adjustment was about $600 parts and labor.
To change all fluids and filters and every thing listed on the 18K service would put it up there comparable to K1600.

But would a valve check on a GW be something an owner could do? I do it on my RT. I wouldn't do it on a K bike. That makes a difference in deciding if I would buy a different bike. I know HDs, Indians, Victorys and Kawasaki's don't need valve adjustments on their touring bikes. I thought the GW valve adjustment interval was 32k miles? That makes a difference too. I've heard the air filter on a GW is a PITA.
 
But would a valve check on a GW be something an owner could do? I do it on my RT. I wouldn't do it on a K bike. That makes a difference in deciding if I would buy a different bike. I know HDs, Indians, Victorys and Kawasaki's don't need valve adjustments on their touring bikes. I thought the GW valve adjustment interval was 32k miles? That makes a difference too. I've heard the air filter on a GW is a PITA.

I would check the valves on the GW every 20K, had them adjusted at 80K.
Your right on the air cleaner It took me over 2 hours to replace it at 40K and it didn't really need to be changed them.
The large V twin baggers have hydraulic lifter and don't need adjustment.
Part of the reason I did the 18K service was to ensure the warranty.

The K1600 is a high performance engine, the others aren't.
The reason I switch from Honda to BMW was performance.
The K1600 is faster and more agile then the GW with all its comforts.
 
I would check the valves on the GW every 20K, had them adjusted at 80K.
Your right on the air cleaner It took me over 2 hours to replace it at 40K and it didn't really need to be changed them.
The large V twin baggers have hydraulic lifter and don't need adjustment.
Part of the reason I did the 18K service was to ensure the warranty.

The K1600 is a high performance engine, the others aren't.
The reason I switch from Honda to BMW was performance.
The K1600 is faster and more agile then the GW with all its comforts.

Understood, but someone looking at touring bikes in general would include them all. Would you say the GW was cheaper to own from a maintenance perspective? The ergos are goofy for me, but works for people in the right range. The GT reminds me of my RT, the GTL is more like a GW in ergos. YMMV. I'll stick with the RT for a little while longer.
 
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