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98 R1100RT alternator belt help?

oldnslow

It's a way of life!
I've read and researched and now confused myself. With what belt should I replace my stock alternator belt I hear talk of some ELAST belt or such, but it takes 'special' pulleys? ? The bike has 19000 miles on it, and I'm sure its the stock belt. Also, tips and instructions on replacement would be appreciated. PM to me or post here..thanks.
 
I got so many miles on the original belt that I didn't even think of it till the miles really racked up. Then I finally replaced it at 100k and installed a Dayco exact replacement belt. Been in there now for another 70k with no issues. Just get the belt designed for the bike and you'll be fine in my opinion.

Oh, and my 94RS has the original OEM pulleys in it since day one. No need to change to any belt that requires a special pulley based on my experience. Besides, if it makes you feel better, just change out the standard belt at 40k and stash the old belt under the bike somewhere as a backup. I carry an extra Dayco belt on my RS in the storage area behind the taillight, I think I paid $17 per belt.
 
Max BMW

# Part Number Description lb Qty Each

04 12 31 1 341 779 RIBBED V-BELT 0.11 1 $23.42

4PK611 was also stamped on my old belt.

This is what fit on my 98 R1100RT.

I also purchased and used the BMW preload tool.

I do not think you need the special tool but it may make getting the proper belt tension easier and more accurate.

Mark
 
belt

Your bike doesn't need the elast belt. I use a Dayco belt of the proper length on my '98 RS (611 mm, I believe) that I bought from NAPA, but everyone carries them.
To tension the belt you can use various methods (including the '1/4 turn' test and the 'lever under the alternator' method), but if you buy an acorn nut (or if you double-nut it) you can put it on the end of the adjusting bolt and use a torque wrench from the front of the engine. The proper method, of course is to use a torque wrench on the head of the bolt (from the backside of the mounting plate), but that is more trouble. And, just so you know - you have to use the torque wrench in the 'leftie loosie' direction if you do it from the backside of the mounting plate.
BTW - don't be alarmed if you loosen the three nuts and the alternator belt doesn't loosen up. The alternator sometimes gets stuck in position, and you just have to persuade it to drop down to loosen the belt.
 
Oh, and my 94RS has the original OEM pulleys in it since day one. No need to change to any belt that requires a special pulley based on my experience. Besides, if it makes you feel better, just change out the standard belt at 40k and stash the old belt under the bike somewhere as a backup. I carry an extra Dayco belt on my RS in the storage area behind the taillight, I think I paid $17 per belt.

Andy, what is the part number for your Dayco belt? It's a job I've been considering doing when I take the Tupperware off in a couple of weeks.

Thanks.

Paul
 
Paul......I adjusted the tension on the alternator on my bike.....I noticed it was a "Dayco".....the part number for it.....at least the number on the belt is 4PK0620 in one
line and 5040240 directly below it.
Hope this helps
 
Paul......I adjusted the tension on the alternator on my bike.....I noticed it was a "Dayco".....the part number for it.....at least the number on the belt is 4PK0620 in one
line and 5040240 directly below it.
Hope this helps

Thank you, Snookers! :wave
 
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