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Distance Between Oil Changes

Since the possibility that a problem could result from changing to synthetic oil is on your mind already, and is apparently still debatable, and, since you consider an oil change to be an inconvenience during your trip, do you really want to change oil type right before a long ride?
IMHO, it may be less worrisome to get an oil change just before leaving with what you've been using and carry an extra quart of that to top off, if necessary.

Just a thought.

Curt
 
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8,500 miles on a cross-country trip 2 years ago. Added about 1/8 of a quart when my buddy was filling his and had some left over. I never worried about running that far; oil was only 3 weeks old when I changed it out for new oil. Mobil 1 in case anyone wonders...
 
My 2009 manual says that "BMW Motorrad recommends not using synthetic oils for the first 6,000 miles". The very
next sentence says, "Ask your BMW Motorrad retailer for engine oils suitable for your motorcycle". Hilarious. My BMW
retailer service manager says to use full synthetic from mile one. Which I have done, and the machine uses about a half
quart every 3,000 miles and doesn't leak a drop anywhere.
 
Downs said:
That's one of those commonly perpetuated myths now days. There plenty of cars that come filled from the factory with full syn oil in the pans.
Click to expand...

My last two vehicles, one foreign made - one domestic, both came with synthetic from the factory.
 
My 1995 SAAB 900 Turbo has over 200,000 miles on it and it left the factory with Mobil 1 in it and has never had anything else. No oil consumption, no turbo replacements and average of over 29mpg on 91Octane Chevron fuel. My 1990 SAAB turbo has many more miles on it with dino oil and has always used a quart at 2000 miles and I've had two turbo center sections to replace in it. My R1200RT (2006) used 15/50 Mobil 1 and has never had to have any added between 5k changes. Ant like ponch nearly zero miles between changes as I always do them in my shop.
 
BC1100S said:
My last two vehicles, one foreign made - one domestic, both came with synthetic from the factory.
Click to expand...

FYI for BMW motorcycles - all units are red-lined on a dyno at the factory before delivery (watched that little factoid on a Discovery Channel special about BMW). I suspect this accelerates the melding of the seals to the two metal surfaces they are designed to mate with.

Same 'prepping' would be true if BMW decided to ship new from the factory with 'syn' rather than 'dino.'

It's the switching from dino to synthetic that often results in some weepage if done too soon, due to the superior viscosity of synthetic.

Switch anytime after 12k.
 
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You will be fine at 6500 miles. I sell my dealer the Mobil 1 Racing 4T and V-Twin. We have performed oil analysis at a local lab for some of the guys doing the Iron Butts and runs to Alaska. We tested 3 different boxers with between 11,000 and 12,500 on the drain and the oil spec'd out at about 50 percent life left. This was figured by looking at the viscosity, additive depletion & many other aspects of the oil that are to many to list. If you're running any of the quality branded synthetics and even some of the quality conventionals you will still be in a safe zone unless you have a pre-existing issue internal issue. Start out with fresh oil, oil filter and make sure you have a good air filter. High flow performance filters tend to let a lot of particles past which will take a toll on your oil quality and greatly decrease the length of your oil drain

Take care and have fun

Jason
 
To the earlier reply about changing to syn versus dino oil at 8k:

"Says me and my dealer. I switched over at about 8K for a short tour. In less than 2.5k I went through a quart of oil. On dino I don't have to add between 6k changes."

IF your bike only had 8k on it, it was too early to switch to syn, not because of the seals but because the rings had not fully matched up to the bores. BMW Oilheads especially, not as much the Hexheads, take about 20k in miles to fully set the rings to the point of nearly no oil use between changes. I changed my Oilhead to syn years ago after 20k miles and it quit using any oil between changes. Years later I ran dino oil for a while (no change), then went back to syn (again no change). Never had any seal leak issues. After the initial set in, I would have no concerns about running syn or dino oil.

I have seen the bores of an 1150 engine with over 225,000 miles on it, and the cross-hatch pattern in the cylinders was still clearly visible. No ridge at the top of the bores. No piston scuffing. Ring gaps (with the original rings) was still in spec. Engine was reassembled using the original pistons and ring sets. This is on a bike where the owner changed the oil at 5,000 mile intervals. All 225,000 miles on the bike were his alone.
 
ANDYVH said:
To the earlier reply about changing to syn versus dino oil at 8k:

"Says me and my dealer. I switched over at about 8K for a short tour. In less than 2.5k I went through a quart of oil. On dino I don't have to add between 6k changes."

IF your bike only had 8k on it, it was too early to switch to syn, not because of the seals but because the rings had not fully matched up to the bores. BMW Oilheads especially, not as much the Hexheads, take about 20k in miles to fully set the rings to the point of nearly no oil use between changes. I changed my Oilhead to syn years ago after 20k miles and it quit using any oil between changes. Years later I ran dino oil for a while (no change), then went back to syn (again no change). Never had any seal leak issues. After the initial set in, I would have no concerns about running syn or dino oil.

I have seen the bores of an 1150 engine with over 225,000 miles on it, and the cross-hatch pattern in the cylinders was still clearly visible. No ridge at the top of the bores. No piston scuffing. Ring gaps (with the original rings) was still in spec. Engine was reassembled using the original pistons and ring sets. This is on a bike where the owner changed the oil at 5,000 mile intervals. All 225,000 miles on the bike were his alone.
Click to expand...

And the fresh oil coating the rear wheel and drive assemblies came from where?

For the record this was during a fairly high speed run across Nevada and Utah in hot weather.

(I was going to let this die but I'm bored.) :wave
 
In regards to the original question.
#1 you have a stone age engine where the transmission is separate and not shearing oil molecules. The clutch is dry and not putting crud in the oil. That boxer isn't screaming at 10K rpm, even at 70 or 80mph, its loafing. It has an oil cooler and those jugs are right out their in the breeze. Your oil will be good for a long time.
#2 as has already been said, you are doing long distance riding which is the easiest scenario there is for engine load.
#3 the oil change interval is ALWAYS a CYA number where the manufacturer expects you to exceed it.
#4 on the GS the synthetic versus dino stuff is pretty much right up there with voodoo. Do you know what is in the bike now? With a GS it is certain you will have to add oil. My superstition tells me to use similar oil to top it off rather than mix different stuff. Probably doesn't matter but it makes me feel better.

I know we love our bikes but I think your concern is without merit.
 
OIL and Tires:)

GSA1200 rider here. Just watch your oil level, nothing else required on road trip:). You mentioned TKC and miles and road tires? Heidenau Tires, I think its spelled! Riders here are getting 12-13000m on rears out here:):):). A real DS Tire, midway between TKC and Tourances,etc.. Most of us are maybe old school oil folks and always changed our oil at 3000m intervals, even on road trips and it was really not an issue traveling and doing an oil change. MOST auto parts stores WILL have a facility to allow you to do your own oil change out back or on their property somewhere. I have done this a few times, no issues, just ASK'em. O'Rielly's Auto Parts last time in Colorado let me do it, even gave me the oil pan:) and dumped my used oil. Today, I go 5000m intervals on a change and if on a road trip, may go the distance to get home first, not always though. The above TIP about auto parts stores works most of the time and self service your own is quick. Randy PS; I like my 5000m oil change interval, BECAUSE its easy to remember on the odometer, as I started at 5's and so on. Every 5, EG; 90000,95000 where I'm at now with Valvoline 20/50m/c on the rocks, shaken, not stirred:). 007 lingo, sorry:(.
 
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