After looking at the hoses again, I see that they are not only too short to wrap 540 degrees, but come with instructions that describe the need to cut them to fit.
I replaced them because I read the older bikes were having problems with them. All the hoses I replaced were about 8 years old (original factory) - Their condition were like new, no sponginess what so ever.
My concerns about the replacement nylon hose were:
A. Corrugated portion might restrict flow - Hose is 5/16 inch diameter and I don't think our bikes drink that much fuel.
B. It's Nylon - It has an A rating for gasoline and alcohol and heard cars use Nylon.
C. Thickness of tubing - It's rated well over the 100 PSI ( it's 220 PSI rated) we need.
D. Nylon tubing doesn't compress for clamping - I used Oeitiker clamps. Fuel hose clamps are supplied. Just be sure to pull enough of the straight tubing over the barb, and then clamp down after the barb.
I don't think one should use an ordinary submersible hose for the bend because it's rather stiff.
I would recommend a preformed hose from BMW or the Hose Kit from Euromotoelectric.
You guys are diagnostic geniuses!! Pulled the side panel (after checking another old thread to find out how to "whack" the mirror off) and it's leaking at the disconnect. My question now before I spend the $75 on the all metal disconnect is....has anyone replaced the quick disconnects with some sort of straight piece of hose and fittings? Just wondering if you really need the quick disconnects or can you rig it direct and deal with the inconvenience of draining fuel on my next repair. If you did rig it, I'd love to know what you used. I was wondering if just putting in a small fuel filter between the two hoses would work???
Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys....you were a life saver!
Last edited by cajunbeemer; 03-10-2013 at 07:48 PM.
One thing you could do is buy some Viton O-Rings from Beemer Boneyard. Then see if your plastic QDs are sound, they may well be.
MOA # 30878
Past BMW Bikes: 2011 K1300S, 2003 K1200RS, 1991 K75S, 1987 K75T, 1984 R100RT
There's not a lot of genius required to figuring out this problem. It's common and been written up here loads of times. As Roger04RT already stated you can first try replacing the viton o rings (simple easy fix) if the leak is from in between the two connectors and there are no breaks or cracks in them. If your current parts are OK and just need o rings this is the preferred fix.
If you decide to go for the barb the size you need is 5/16".
If you want to switch them out for a much cheaper alternative and plenty here would advise against it these do
$16 each won't break the bank.
No matter what you do as Lee said use fuel injection hose clamps NOT the cheapo plumbing clamps. Like this one from O'Reilly auto parts. 52fseries.jpg
MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
'81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT
Two quick thoughts. First, pretty much everyone agrees that thee QDs are worth the money. There are a bunch of maintenance tasks that require you to remove the tank. You'll be much happier if you have a high-quality set of QDs installed.
Second, your current fuel lines are 11 years old. This is an ideal time to replace them. You will probably damage them getting the old QDs off anyway.
So, buy a set of QDs and a few feet of 5/16" i.d. fuel injection-rated line. Rebuild the whole setup. Heck, as long as you're doing that, you might as well replace the fuel filter. Maybe pull it out of the tank and install it externally. Might as well bleed the brakes while you have the tank off also.
On the road again! Thanks for all the tips. I ended up buying 4' of fuel injection fuel line and fuel injection hose clamps. I was able to carefully get the crimp-on clamps off without having to take the tank off and replaced the line from the tank down to the hard plastic lines. I know it will be little more inconvenient than having the quick disconnects but I like not having that potential leak spot hanging right over he heads.
I'm ordering a repair manual but does anyone know where I can download or get an owners manual for an 1150RT? Dealer says they can't get the 1150 any longer.
Here's an electrical link that has a good schematic: http://www.mac-pac.org/tech/electrical-diagrams/
For manuals, as you probably know, Haynes or Clymers.
If you PM me an email address I've got the document I believe you're looking for.
Last year I replaced the male end of the quick disconnects. I was told by Ted Porter at the Beemershop that the female ends arent a problem. All he sells are the metal male ends. I cant verify if this is true or not.