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Thread: Slash 5 Clutch Installation

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  1. #1
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
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    Slash 5 Clutch Installation

    Hi Gang,

    I'm freshening up this old girl - already replaced main seal & oil pump O ring and new flywheel bolts and blocked the crank . . .

    Bought a new OEM clutch as existing was shiny like glass (bike has 80k on the odo). We used a micrometer to check all clutch components and everything is within specs.

    Manual says to put grease on diaphragm spring - Haynes is vague and Clymer shows putting it around perimeter and on the fingers (side that bulges out). Was planning to use just a little Honda Moly grease - is this okay? Does grease also go on back of diaphragm spring that comes into contact with the flywheel?

    I also know not to put grease inside the splines on the clutch - just on the transmission input shaft.

    Also, I have a clutch alignment tool - if I use it do I have to do a "dry run" by lining splines up on transmission to clutch before battening down the clutch bolts?

    Any suggestions / tips always appreciated.

    Thanks!
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

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    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    On my /7 clutch I greased the tips of the fingers as well as the part that touches the flywheel...all of those pieces move around a bit. Also, be sure your clutch pushrod gets grease on the very tip where it sits in the groove on the pressure plate. Honda Moly should be OK...I just a mixture of a red tacky grease with some moly mixed in.

    I've put in two clutches without an alignment tool. I basically eyeball very, very closely that the disk is centered in the opening of the compression ring. If it's off a skosh, when I have the tranny in place on the engine case studs, I found a way to push on the clutch lever so that the pressure plate release a bit allowing the disk to center. I've never found it to be a problem. But once you get the tranny in place and before tightening the tranny bolts, definitely actuate the clutch a few times to fully center the disk.
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    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

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    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    On my /7 clutch I greased the tips of the fingers as well as the part that touches the flywheel...all of those pieces move around a bit. Also, be sure your clutch pushrod gets grease on the very tip where it sits in the groove on the pressure plate. Honda Moly should be OK...I just a mixture of a red tacky grease with some moly mixed in.

    I've put into two clutches without an alignment tool. I basically eyeball very, very closely that the disk is centered in the opening of the compression ring. If it's off a skoosh, when I have the tranny in place on the engine case studs, I found a way to push on the clutch lever so that the pressure plate release a bit allowing the disk to center. I've never found it to be a problem. But once you get the tranny in place and before tightening the tranny bolts, definitely actuate the clutch a few times to fully center the disk.
    Thanks, Kurt - so as long as the clutch is lined up properly and I can rotate the transmission input shaft, I shouldn't have any trouble linking up the male/female splines - and I can go ahead and compress the clutch - is that right?
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

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    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Right. You may try and slip the tranny forward but it just doesn't go. Pull it back and rotate the input shaft another skosh...then retry. If you have it close, it will eventually slide home. With the tranny slid forward, finger tighted bolted on, hook up the clutch mechanism and get it a try. That's when you want to find out if there's a problem.

    I don't recall...did you remove the clutch pushrod? If so, those usually go back in from the front with the felt ring already on the rod. I found that to be the easiest rather than to try and get the felt on from the rear once the rod was slid through the tranny.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

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    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    did you remove the clutch pushrod? If so, those usually go back in from the front with the felt ring already on the rod. I found that to be the easiest rather than to try and get the felt on from the rear once the rod was slid through the tranny.
    I did pull everything apart to clean things up & re-lubricate. Did not know I could assemble the clutch pushrod prior to mounting the tranny.
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

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    Superkraut typ181r90's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kentuvman View Post
    I did pull everything apart to clean things up & re-lubricate. Did not know I could assemble the clutch pushrod prior to mounting the tranny.
    So much easier installing the pushrod from the front, felt seal goes right in with minimal effort and no tricks involved
    // 1975 BMW R90/6 (cafe'd) // 1957 BMW R60 (in pieces) // 1967 Aermacchi/H-D Sprint 250 SS (custom special) // 1973 VW Type 181 Custom SOLD )

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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post

    I've put in two clutches without an alignment tool. I basically eyeball very, very closely that the disk is centered in the opening of the compression ring. If it's off a skosh, when I have the tranny in place on the engine case studs, I found a way to push on the clutch lever so that the pressure plate release a bit allowing the disk to center. I've never found it to be a problem. But once you get the tranny in place and before tightening the tranny bolts, definitely actuate the clutch a few times to fully center the disk.
    Great thread, thanks for offering such useful information.
    I wrestled without the alignment tool last night until my back and arms couldn't take it anymore. I've eyed the disk centered but the tranny splines just won't go in. Turned the splines abit and tried again. It's sooo close but just won't go in. Did this at least 7 times. Maybe the disk is sitting just a little low?
    Going to go back and work on it again today.


    Last winter I had the engine out when aligning the disk with the transmission. Alot easier!

    Cheers
    Barrett

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    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by barrettnjones View Post
    I've eyed the disk centered but the tranny splines just won't go in.
    I've reverted to actually measuring the distances of the clutch disk metal flange WRT to the opening in the compression ring. You're right...if you're off by maybe an 1/8", the tranny might not fit in...but you could see that dimension with a tape measure.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  9. #9
    Curmudgeon nrpetersen's Avatar
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    Barrett - FYI - If you don't have the clutch disk exactly aligned, you are probably looking at like ~1000 lbs of force to drag the clutch disk across the flywheel face(s) so that the spline and the engine-transmission pilot diameters will line up. Just be sure that after you get it worried and forced together, that you release the clutch & kinda float things as much as possible while tightening the engine-transmission bolts.

    Otherwise the axis of the engine crankshaft and the transmission axis will have an alignment discrepancy that will show as a massive rotating (one per engine revolution) side force on the spline ---- forever!

    Be careful. I wish there was a more direct way to get that initial alignment of the clutch spline before the engine-transmission connection is fixed. If you have to, I suppose you could pry radially on the hub of the clutch disk enough to slide it a little ways - but which way? I feel for you.
    Retired w 2005 K1200LT, 2000 R1100RT, & 1975 R90/6

  10. #10
    Administrator 20774's Avatar
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    The trick is to not lock down the compression ring before getting the disk centered. With a modest amount of pressure, you can bring the tranny up and trial fit. If it doesn't go or you see an offset, it's not too difficult to lightly knock the plate one direction or the other. Then you can full tighten the clutch pack.

    As for the alignment of the tranny and engine axes, I don't think that's a big issue...the tranny rides on the two upper studs...she's not going to move anywhere. [Note, Duane Ausherman talks about actually starting the engine and performing the clutch actuation and tightening the tranny down on /2s...but I think there's more slop in the mounting than on the /5-on machines.] But it is a good idea to hook up the clutch arm and cable and actuate the clutch a couple of times before tightening the transmission mounting bolts. That keeps any forces off the input shaft as you tighten the transmission down.
    Kurt -- Forum Administrator ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  11. #11
    Registered User kentuvman's Avatar
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    Progress Report: Transmission Installed today

    So - got the clutch installed and the alignment tool worked like a dream (not trying to make you feel bad, Barrett)

    I used about a can of brake cleaner to get the grime off the transmission cavity and cleaned the outer case.

    Used several toothpicks to remove debris from each of the cavities in the spline and mixed together some moly & grease to coat the male splines.

    Inserted the clutch rod through the front of the tranny, as suggested, and soaked the felt ring in gear oil. Added moly grease to the tip that presses against the compression plate and cleaned & greased the thrust bearing, piston & sealing ring.

    Actuated the clutch several times (it feels really nice) before tightening up the transmission bolts - still not fully tightened yet.

    Here's my question: When I put the bike into gear and depress the clutch operating mechanism (cable isn't connected yet) I can't spin the output flange, other than neutral that connects to the swingarm - I haven't re-installed the swing arm yet.

    Wondering if I missed something? It's normal to pull in the clutch and be able to roll forward on a motorcycle in gear or hold the clutch in when stopped.

    I'm about 100% that the clutch went in right as well as the clutch operating mechanism as I kept the workshop manual by my side.

    What do you think?
    Ken Tuvman
    Excelsior, MN
    K75s, R65LS, R60/5

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