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90 R 100 GSPD suspension upgrade

chasmrider

not lost til out of gas
hello all, I would like to upgrade my suspension, I am thinking Ohlins on the rear, ( the basic one that you have to adjust with a spanner) and I am not sure about the front. I am setting the bike up to ride backcountry discovery route type stuff. what do you think? Chuck
 

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I added a Wilbers shock (adjust with spanner) from Ted Porter.
Rebuilt front end with Race Tech Gold Valves and new springs (local friend/BMW mechanic did the work).

& it made the world of difference. You will be glad you upgraded!
Go for it!
<a href="http://s1089.beta.photobucket.com/user/brittrunyon/media/_DSC3150_zps3b43ea02.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/_DSC3150_zps3b43ea02.jpg" border="0" alt="zed photo _DSC3150_zps3b43ea02.jpg"/></a>
 
I added a Wilbers shock (adjust with spanner) from Ted Porter.
Rebuilt front end with Race Tech Gold Valves and new springs (local friend/BMW mechanic did the work).

& it made the world of difference. You will be glad you upgraded!
Go for it!
<a href="http://s1089.beta.photobucket.com/user/brittrunyon/media/_DSC3150_zps3b43ea02.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/_DSC3150_zps3b43ea02.jpg" border="0" alt="zed photo _DSC3150_zps3b43ea02.jpg"/></a>

Good idea about the race tech on the front, Forgot I had that on my list to do. I put an ohlins With the adjustment knob... MaxBMW had them on for a decent but expense price several years ago. I like it, works well.
 
thanks, yesterday I ordered the basic Ohlins shock, and a Racetech emulator kit, new Racetech springs rated to my weight, and all the seals to do the job. the shop wants $300 if I bring them the bike or $150 if I remove the forks. I am wondering how critical the set up on the forks is. I would like to do my own work but I would be learning as I haven't done this job before.any thoughts? thanks Chuck
 
morning all, since there seems to be a lack of opinion on the fork rebuild I shall press on, what could go wrong?
 
thanks Grahamm, I did find that in my internet search, I have also been looking at Infra's 1993 R 100 GS maintenance and improvement on adv. Infra says when you drill the two holes in the damper rod (?) the bottom one is covered by a bushing, he says he just left the bushing out. I haven't taken mine apart yet but the Clymer manual says my fork has that bushing. any thoughts? thanks Chuck
 
thanks Grahamm, I did find that in my internet search, I have also been looking at Infra's 1993 R 100 GS maintenance and improvement on adv. Infra says when you drill the two holes in the damper rod (?) the bottom one is covered by a bushing, he says he just left the bushing out. I haven't taken mine apart yet but the Clymer manual says my fork has that bushing. any thoughts? thanks Chuck

Sorry, can't help you with that one, since I sourced mine out & had a friend (http://www.ocdcustomcycles.com/home.html) install........Good Luck.
 
thanks, I will ask the shop when my parts come in later this week. maybe by then someone will see this and have experience with this issue, and let me know. on further investigation I found another guy on adv " forkin' around" who said he drilled his holes above the existing hole, that seems to make sense maybe it will be more clear when I take them apart.
 
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Sorry no experience yet. This thread reminded me that I still have this upgrade to do. Was planning on this after I checked my tranny... Which to my surprise had the circlip and square edge NTN bearing which is a real surprise for a '91.
 
thanks, I don't know anything about my tranny yet, other than you have to match the rpms perfectly or it won't like going into second gear, and my rear seal leaks thanks to following bad advice( " you have to use synthetic oil your tranny will run cooler and shift better", well maybe but it also started leaking) anyway I should have parts in a couple of days, I will post a few pics when I take it apart.
 
good morning, today I got my parts, my shop ordered Race Tech emul. kit, R 100 gs, pn FEGV S3804. this kit has an emulator for both sides, everything I have read on line says you should only put an emulator in the right side, since the left side already handles compression. my shop owner says I should put one in both sides, when I read the Race Tech info they said use both, because the Race tech valve works better and sooner than the existing unit. this makes sense to me and I am going with it. I will start tomorrow and post a few pics as I go. any thoughts?
 

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yes , thank you for sending it. BTW nice bike, I think that guy is wrong! the best explanation I have found is " www.largiader.com" however he refers you to the website you just sent me which according to the info that came from Race Tech is wrong! Race tech says to drill the new holes above the existing hole, also he says use only 1 gold valve on the rebound side ( right) since the left already handles compression. my shop owner/ace mechanic, and Race Tech say put a gold valve in both sides , because the gold valve does a better job than stock alone. this makes good sense to me, and is what I am doing. I would love to hear from some one that has done this job. that's all for now, tomorrow I start disassembly.
 
Look forward to our progress, this will be my next upgrade:)

Btw, tried to rate this thread as good and it ended up terrible due to my big big fingers, and it will not let me change it! sorry about that! These threads are exactly what is needed.

Thanks, G
 
... Race Tech say put a gold valve in both sides , because the gold valve does a better job than stock alone.

The Race-Tech website lists one GV in the R100GS kit, to be installed in the right leg. I suspect most people suggesting a GV in the left leg have never actually looked inside; modifications will be needed for it to have any effect at all. However, they would not be difficult mods.

I have two GVs and I have two sets of fork legs (and I have a GS) so maybe I should start playing with it. The reason I link to Scot's website is that I have no direct experience with this combo yet.
 
Btw, tried to rate this thread as good and it ended up terrible due to my big big fingers, and it will not let me change it! sorry about that! These threads are exactly what is needed.

You can only vote once to rate a thread. The rating will change as more people vote their choice on the thread.
 
morning everyone, a little more theory/debate before I grab a wrench. Anton thank you so much for your response, your website is awesome, I studied it for several hours last week. if I understand correctly this is what happens when I hit a bump. as the forks compress the right leg check valve opens and allows max flow, the left leg restricts flow progressively as the fork compresses. as the fork nears bottom, the hole in the bottom of the right leg damper rod is covered by the valve and provides a further damping effect. on rebound, the right leg check valve closes restricting flow, the left leg valve restricts flow marginally by being bigger at the top than the bottom. now if I understand, the gold valve is placed on top of the damper rod under the fork spring. when I hit a bump , the gold valve greatly restricts flow until you reach the set point, at that time the gold valve opens allowing controlled flow. so I am looking at my instructions from race tech , Marzocchi 40 mm - BMW R 80/100 GS , part # FEGV S3804 , there are 2 gold valves. my shop owner / ace mechanic , and Race Tech say " the left leg creates a marginal amount of compression damping through most of the stroke and really is only effective near bottoming." however the instructions from Race Tech are only detailed on the right leg. (maybe because you have to drill holes in it ). anyway the way it has been explained to me is, put one on both sides and it will make both sides the same, and better. and yes I have never actually seen the insides of my forks,, yet! so what do you all think about that? p.s. I will call the Race Tech techline on Monday, and wont put anything back til I talk to them.
 
Your view of the fork functionality is the same as how I see it. I don't really know how the damping of the left leg (in either direction) compares to that of the right. An note that the GCV only acts on the oil flow through the damping rod, not through the existing valve. That's why they want the holes drilled: to disable the existing valve.

As for the emulators, the R100GS page says, "1 Emulator with Adapter in Kit. Rebound and compression in right leg. Emulator goes in right leg."

From this page: http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/BMW/R 100 GS/1987-94
 
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