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Torque Wrench recommendations

bobframe

New member
I am trying to build out my wrenching capabilities and having a good quality torque wrench seems like a good idea. I noticed that a top of the line Snap-On wrench can approach $500. Not likely.

So, any suggestions for what I should buy. Have no problem hunting down a used one, but I'd like an experienced guy to tell me what to look for. In particular:

-electronic??
-what size drive?? I'm guessing 3/8" for the widest range of applications, but what do I know?
-brand matter?? Any to avoid?
-speaking of avoid...anything to avoid?
-is "used" a good idea? or a bad idea?
-many suggest having the wrenches calibrated. Can any wrench be calibrated...or is only the more expensive wrenches?
-buy a newton meter wrench...or ft.lbs and convert?? Or should I expect one wrench to do it all?
-what's the most useful range of torque settings on a wrench? Do I need two wrenches? Three? C'mon.
-what should I expect to pay?

Many thanks,

Bob
 
Last edited:
I have two
Both sears and 3/8 drive micro click
One has about a 10 inch handle and handles the lower metric ranges
The other has a 14in handle and higher metric range for wheels and axel torque requirements
Both see limited use only used for maintaining two bikes
I would avoid the very cheap ones found at HF, and discount stores
Most will say avoid the Chinese made wrenches, and go with US, German or Swedish made
 
Actually I would recommend the Harbor Freight offerings. One of the major car magazines just did a Consumer Reports style test and the Harbor Freight units were rated very high for accuracy. Better than one of the Snap-on wrenches.
 
I use a couple of 3/8" torque wrenches, each having a different range. Remember, that a torque wrench tends to be most accurate in it's mid-range. As well, a 1/2" drive is occasionally needed, but not as frequently as the 3/8" drives. Try to find torque wrenches which display both Nm and ft/lbs.

I'd definite go for new, and if the H.F. ones have a good review, why not start with one from there?
 
I have two Harbor Freight "click" type torque wrenches. One in inch lbs theother in Ft lbs. I also have a Craftsman I paid decent money for.

For your average shade tree mech like myself who only works on their own vehicles I'd suggest just getting a Harbor Freight model. You can buy a bunch of them for the cost of one "high end" torque wrench.
 
I recently bought the HF 3/8" for $10 (with coupon) to replace my old beam type Craftsman. It is of surprisingly good quality, and I'm happy with it.
 
This month, a lot of the car magazines (Autoweek, Circle Track, etc.) have the Harbor Freight coupons for $9.99 torque wrenches. Limit 9 wrenches per coupon. Valid through 6/19/13. Good for 1/4" drive inch/lb, 3/8" ft/lb, and 1/2" ft/lb wrenches. Wrenches also have newton/meter markings. Accuracy within 4%.

I would recommend buying all three; 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2".



:dance:dance:dance
 
Calibration

Is calibration an issue that you worry about? I have no idea how far off a torque wrench can get.
 
They are calibrated when new to within the tolerance specified by the manufacturer (plus or minus 4% for the Harbor Freight ones).

Unless you abuse them, they should stay accurate enough.



:dance:dance:dance
 
Opinion: I don't worry about calibration unless I forget to zero a clicker before putting it away or I otherwise drop/damage the tool. According to Machinery's Handbook 25 (table on page 1404) a torque wrench is only +/- 25% accurate anyway.

Edit: where "accurate" means measuring the actual preload applied to the fastener.
 
Agreed.

The torque applied to the HEAD of the fastener is as accurate as the wrench.

The variable is the friction caused by fastener material, smoothness, lubrication, contact area, etc, etc. For what we are using it for, going by the wrench is more than close enough.

In most motorcycle applications, it is more about insuring that you don't get fasteners TOO tight and strip threads out of aluminum heads, tranny housings, etc. Very few non-engine internal fasteners are really torque critical except for things like axle and swingarm preload. Most are "make sure it doesn't strip or fall off". Striping threads in aluminum is very easy for the inexperienced without a torque wrench. Very few people tighten things insufficiently so they fall off.


:dance:dance:dance
 
I recommend you use a torque wrench.
Any kind basically.
The only thing you don't want, is an old rusty one, that doesn't seem to 'click' no matter how hard you wrench on that bolt.
My neighbor learned that the hard way with an old rusty one I had. He wrenched on an engine cradle bolt under a Toyota (240 foot pound spec?), even tho' I told him the wrench might be bad.
It was not easy to get that broken stub out.
dc
 
After years of doing conversions between NM and Ft/Lbs I broke down and got an electronic wrench, best purchase I ever made, this is a good one for our bikes

$300

Range: 10.0-100.0 Ft/Lb / 120-1200 In/Lb / 13.6-135.6 Nm / 138-1382 Kg.Cm

http://www.toolsource.com/computorq3-electronic-torque-wrench-1001000-ftlb-p-97791.html

Not your harbor Freight unit, but a great tool.

JT

Would not be good for early K-bikes (don't know about others) as the valve cover bolts are 6.5 ft/lb. The HF wrenches are marked in Nm and in/lb or Nm and ft/lb on the same wrench. No conversion needed.


:dance:dance:dance
 
Would not be good for early K-bikes (don't know about others) as the valve cover bolts are 6.5 ft/lb. The HF wrenches are marked in Nm and in/lb or Nm and ft/lb on the same wrench. No conversion needed.


:dance:dance:dance

That looks very much like one of my torque wrenches and you are right Lee, I don't use that one on my old K, but I do use it occasionally on my R1100.
 
Check out Craftsman from Sears, less expensive than Snap On. I have a Craftsman 1/2" ft lbs and a Snap On 3/8" in lbs, both click type.
 
If you want a real torque wrench and not a wannabe, you'll get Stahlwille.

You can use 3/8 or 1/2 inch on the same wrench because the head is removable/interchangeable.

You can use it in reverse to loosen fasteners with no damage. (If you have right-hand threads, simply remove and turn over the head.)

There's no need to zero it when not in use.

There's no harm done tightening past the set value. On my SUV a brake part torque spec is 80 nm plus 45 degrees.

The scales are both in nm and ft-lb and there's no conversion required.

The BMW special tool for removing transmission drain plug on an R1100S is designed to fit one of these wrenches, too. FWIW Hazet also follows the same removable head size specs, but doesn't have the other features.

Sorry, but you're going to have to have at least two torque wrenches, because obviously a wrench long enough to tighten/remove lug nuts isn't going to work at 5 ft-lbs, too.

I'm fairly certain the cheapest place to get these is through either the VW or Mercedes parts systems. BMW probably has them, too, but no experience.
721_fot_022.jpg
 
I have an SK "clicker" style torque wrench. It has both ft-lbs and N-M scales. It is made in USA and came with a blow molded case. For the same price (or less) you could get two HF "clicker" style torque wrenches. I wanted mid/high-quality, made in USA, and simple. I expect the SK to outlast me. The only caveat is that I will likely need a second wrench that covers low torque ranges. I have a BMW motorcycle and two Honda CIVICs that (for me without a"calibrated" right arm) require a torque wrench. Cost was approx $80 in 2007.
 
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