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My Biggest Dumb*** Move

bobr9

143439
99 R1100RT

Taking my tupperware off today to perform brake line maintenance and front shock replacement. Have done this once before with no problems. Today I, get this, broke off not one but both (left and right sides) of the fairing tabs at the bottom with the two holes that secure it to the shark fin piece (I think I have named that correctly).

I've done a lot of dumb things in my life but this has to rank right up there at the top of the list.

So naturally my first thought is I have to buy some used replacements. Found a left side in good shape (graphite color) on Beemer boneyard and almost clicked the buy button before I got a hold of myself to consider other possible options.

So, my question is (figure I am not the only one who has ever done this) are there any repair options available and/or what are the ramifications of just using the fairing panels as they are (i.e.- would it flap around in the wind, make noise, etc.?)

Any thoughts or suggestion would be appreciated...Bob
 
I think I did the same thing you're describing. I ended up using a hair dryer to take some warp out of the plasticÔÇöwhich is what stressed it in the first place. After reshaping, first i glued it to the support beneath, and then to the main body where the seam is. I used JB Weld and fiberglass cloth to reinforce, in those two spots. There's a line at the repair but very hard to see.

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?58116-Broken-Fairing-Connection-1150RT
 
Hi Bob,
sorry to hear about your fiasco--similar fate as of late--it is possible to repair and is not rocket science--will however take a bit of time and effort--I would start by recommending you purchase a book called "How to Repair Plastic Bodywork" by Kurt Lamon available from Whitehorse press for about $20--you won't regret it--very informative, straighforward and clear--there is a section in the book pertaining to exactly the type of repair you have in mind....forming a new piece which you broke off--

using silly putty you can make a mold which is attached to the body panel and is filled with a two part methacrylic adhesive--when this cures (about 1/2 hour), the mold can be removed easily and the new addition, which remains somewhat flexible like the body panel, can be shaped and drilled with a Dremel tool--I was pleasantly surprised at how easily it was accomplished--you can see my first attempt at this from the photo--If you want, let me know and I can give you the brand of adhesive I got from an auto parts store for about $6--
 

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aapasquale, I'd like to know what the two part adhesive is. Please post it here. I have some broken tabs on an airhead side cover that I've been wanting to fix. Making a mold out of putty sounds like a way better idea than using pvc pipe cuttings and JB Weld which I've been contemplating.
 
--If you want, let me know and I can give you the brand of adhesive I got from an auto parts store for about $6--

Thanks for this info. I would like to know as well what the adhesive used was. Making that mold sounds complicated, but maybe I need to read the book first. I am going to try and post some pictures of what mine currently looks like. Thanks again..
 
I will post some pics. The one below is from the right side fairing and shows the three broken pieces. Note the previous repair by PO:
 

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Picture below is a shot of the right side fairing where the previous picture of the three pieces is supposed to attach to:
 

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This shot is of the broken piece off the left side fairing. I have shown it close to the actual attachment point. This one looks doable as it is only one break vice the three pieces off the right side. Also note the heat damage in the upper right area of the photo. I suppose this is fairly common on these machines?:
 

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Bob, That's just like mine. And I see some heat damage to the inner piece. What I did was: use heat to take some heat warp out of the part underneath where it was originally welded, then glue/cloth the tab to the inner part. Wait for that to completely set, then glue/cloth the tab where it is broken to the main fairing. On the second step, put a good reinforcing layer of glue/cloth on the back side. RB
 
adhesive name

aapasquale, I'd like to know what the two part adhesive is. Please post it here. I have some broken tabs on an airhead side cover that I've been wanting to fix. Making a mold out of putty sounds like a way better idea than using pvc pipe cuttings and JB Weld which I've been contemplating.

the adhesive I used is a two-part adhesive called PermaPoxy (5 minute plastic weld) manufactured by Permatex--It's very easy to use--Bob, in the book you will see other ways of repairing your part which are even more appropriate and are very well-explained and you will no doubt find it a great learning experience--all the best
Tony
 
I had the same happen on my 800.
I used some metal and some epoxy, on the back side.
It worked fine, in fact still works.
And didn't show at all.
Use an epoxy that is compatible with your plastic, I think the 800 is ... oh, some letters. It's a code on the back, usually.
dc
 
If this is the biggest screw up you have ever done while performing bike maint. you are doing pretty damn good :laugh
 
Bob, in the book you will see other ways of repairing your part which are even more appropriate and are very well-explained and you will no doubt find it a great learning experience--all the best
Tony
A copy is on the way. Actually got it for $13 from Amazon. I look forward to getting into it the latter part of this week.
 
Dumb move

I have done the same thing. I rigged up something but its been so long I don't remember how I fixed it. I know I didn't buy a replacement.
I will tell you that it is so far down the list of dumb things that I have done that it is not in the top 100. Don't get me started on my dumb moves.

Ken Denton
 
What did you do wrong that broke the panel? I'd like to know so that I won't do the same thing.
 
What did you do wrong that broke the panel? I'd like to know so that I won't do the same thing.

Well that is a good question. I would have to say that I was focused almost exclusively on the top and front portions of the fairing so I did not verify that the lower tab piece was free and clear. I think I just assumed it was when it wasn't. So next time I will make sure it is free and not hung up on something prior to pulling the piece away from the bike.
 
What did you do wrong that broke the panel? I'd like to know so that I won't do the same thing.

I broke mine quite easily by removing the screws, rocking it forward slightly to release the upper tab between the mirror and front of the fairing. That tab is about an in by an inch. Rocking it a touch forward also helps free the fairing from the tank seam. However, when rocked forward the tab that broke can get caught in the cylinder head fins. Before any pulling to remove the fairing it helps to rock the panel toward the back so that the tabs clear the cylinder head fins.
 
Mine is developing a crack like that, but it's not all the way through yet. I think the heat is causing the plastic to get brittle. It's all ABS plastic so I got some ABS sheet, about 1/16" think, and ABS pipe cement. When I pull the sides down for my next maintenance I'm going to form the ABS sheet to match the back side over the crack and bond it all together with the pipe cement. The ABS will form easily by heating it in the oven. The thin stuff can also be formed with the use of a heat gun. Once soft you can easily form it by pressing it in place while hot. Be sure to wear some gloves doing this or you will burn your hands.
 
My bike doesn't have shark fins, never has since I got it. The panels don't flap around or anything in the past 60K or so. It was an authority bike and they were cut off when I got it. Never even noticed it. Sure makes taking off the cover for the alternator belt a breeze.
 
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