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New clutch resulting in un-diagnosed "issue."

The gearbox for the R100 RS was rebuilt last month with five new bearing, all new seals and the circlip upgrade. Rear main seal and all that were replaced last year so I have some experience taking apart and reassembling the flywheel, clutch, and gearbox.
A new clutch arrived last Saturday and rather than doing something domestic, I undertook the assembly. It progressed in much the same way as it has for me previously. Once the clutch cable was reattached, I actuated the clutch lever once and to my surprise, the pushrod stayed IN, never releasing. BTW, there were no extra parts left over after it went back together.
Whadayathink I will find when I take it all apart tomorrow? This will be yet another learning opportunity :doh
.
 
Assuming you know the orientation of all the clutch parts, I would have the say the problem is the clutch pushrod. If the felt on the pushrod became dislodged, it could be wedged between the rod and the tunnel through the transmission. The diaphragm spring has quite a bit of pressure behind it, but if the felt were wedged, it's possible it could prevent the rod from returning.
 
I know (?-HA!) that I used the schematic for clutch assembly with the pressure plate in first, followed by front
carrier, friction plate and rear carrier. In my model there is no felt washer to put in incorrectly. I have done this a few times and this is what baffles me - that since I have successfully done this in the past, I should be off the hook from making mistakes.

Anyway, I will get out there and report back to the group on my stupid mistake once it's discovered.

Plausible deniability will be searched for as well: The gnomes did it.

Rick:banghead
 
What year? I would remove the linkage for the push rod and see if you could pull it out. If it's an 81 or newer you have a small seal in the end of the input shaft that keeps oil from escaping around the push rod. Look at it also.
 
It's an '88 R100 RS. I did remove the pushrod. All seals are new, as noted earlier. Oil dose circulate clear to the rear end of the pushrod, as this lubricates the bearing at the aft-most site of the rod. A rubber boot seals that oil from the environment.
 
There is a seal that presses into the end of the input shaft if there wasnt oil would migrate forward onto the clutch disk. Item 16 on the diagram. I doubt this is your problem
seal-2.jpg
 
" I actuated the clutch lever once and to my surprise, the pushrod stayed IN,"

It would be helpful to know if you felt near normal resistance as the clutch lever was pulled that first time or if the lever and pushrod just moved it without much resistance.

The idea is to know if the clutch spring was compressed by the lever movement after assembly and has not released

or

If the clutch spring was compressed by improper assembly

or

if the difference in thickness of the new clutch requires much different cable adjustment - I don't see where you mention cable adjustment
 
Loosen the transmission mounting bolts (just loosen - not remove) and wiggle the trnsmission a little. I suspect the nose of the clutch rod is stuck (binding) in the crankshaft pilot hole.
 
Loosen the transmission mounting bolts (just loosen - not remove) and wiggle the trnsmission a little. I suspect the nose of the clutch rod is stuck (binding) in the crankshaft pilot hole.

If I recall correctly a service bulletin recommended the center hole of the clutch spring to be lubed.
 
Many terrific and thoughtful comments.

The pressure plate was installed in reverse position. All better now.

New rebuild on the gearbox from Matthew Parkhouse and new clutch. Ran great today. Thanks.
Adios, Amigos.
 
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